KC / KD shells - durability ?
 

How are people finding durability on shells?

I've been running KC and KD and am puzzling over getting cracking coming from the front body clip hole (both KC and kD shells have split from this point) and the rear point on the KC.

This is from say about 4hrs total of run time (say 40 batteries).

Haven't had cracking as an issue on the KF2 bodies so am wondering why it's happening.

Notes; was using body clips for first two sets of breaks. Ream the body clip hole with schumacher tool.
Switched to velcro having had two bodies break and am now puzzling over yet another break.

This is running at shrcc/epr/dms

Shells
 

I have the KD and KC, both shells have cracks in the bend 10mm from the front clip hole

Not had any trouble with KC body(been used for about 6 race meetings)

Try slotting the front body mount hole to cope with any flex

not had any issue with either KD or KC and both have been well crash tested :) both have got duct tape on the insides to give a bit of strength. didnt have issues with kf/kf2 either and the shells feel the same thickness/springyness.

can also raise the alloy post with a 3mm spacer under it to prevent it being too stressed

Fin
 

I was thinking it's the fin making a high points.

Turning the car upside down;

At the front the cab pushes forward toward to mounting post/ servo housing (which is fairly broad once the mount post is removed) .. so a slotted hope would allow more give.

For the rear with the fin body - there is high point that would def lead to an inward push



Sounds to me best to not have the mount at the front and either keep the long body if you can (spread out deflection / give it something broad to bear down against) or keep the mount post in the rear in position if you've shortened the body to run shocks forward.

Due to the KC and KD flexing much more you do need to make the body holes oval to cater for this otherwise the shell will not last very long. Also be careful with the paint that you use and the amount you put on as it can damage the lexan used on bodyshells.

For some reason the cracking is only on shells that have been aresol painted rather than airbrushed.

Don't know why. Could be down to the temperature of the paint when cans are used.??

I've had none with cracking issues yet that I've painted.

Aerosol
 

Yes these are all aerosol spray finish. Usually 5 light layers. But I can see how cold could be a risk.

Thanks for the suggestion - I'll do lighter / more distant spray coats next and see how it fairs.

Will stick with no hole / mount for the front and keep the mount but no clip for the rear (give it a bearing point at that end rather than body compressing onto transmission ). Plus more generous hole to the rear.

mine were both aerosol sprayed but were sprayed indoors rather than outside in the cold so may have helped? not sure how many layers but 1 can of paint did both shells and then a layer or two of white.

Further reports from the field
 

Couple more people I've met at stotfold and Eden park have the same cracks around the nose area on the KC shells.


One route to avoid impacts on shell - fit the front spoiler ..

No crack on mine, I use just the rear body clip, and thin hook and loop on the sides.

Whether it's painted with aero or can paint.

snip
 

cutting the front nose by about 5-8mm to reduce length seems to help.. someone on rctech said they were doing it.. lets the shell move / compress (you can use the kf2 shell as a template for the length to cut off)

Not had a problem with ours ran every week and took a few hit's as well.

I have run all kinds of bodies on my tlr This one is holding up great. I used Tamiya paint.