Antiques Roadshow!
 

I get the feeling our club may be moving towards a dabble with on-road for a change, so I need some advice on TC's of the ancient variety.:woot:

I have a Mission chassis with a stock motor and esc,now I drive like a complete nugget so speed isnt an issue....my cars the one with a white cane!:blush:

Anyway....it looks like its been a decent bit of kit in its day and I would like to know if theres any setups or mods to make it halfways worth putting on the track? :confused:

My only other is an equally ancient Tamiya TB01 that I fancied running as rally type basher, I think that one would struggle on-road as its a bit 'agricultural' if you get my drift? :p

You might be surprised that your Mission is still a 'current' car in the Schumacher range - it was re-released as the Mi1. It is basically the same car as your Mission but adapted to better accept Lipo batteries. It is sold as an entry level car but can certainly still be quite a performer in the right hands.

My advice would be to carefully re-build your Mission replacing any worn parts & adapt it to accept your modern electrics, fit the tyres that the quick guys run, & see how it goes.

In my opinion, development of the TC platform has hit a plateau - like in buggy racing, design improvements in recent years (since cars like the Yokomo BD & HPI Cyclone) has been minimal - which is why a car like your Mission can still do ok. From my experience of previous models to the Mission (SST99 & Axis) the Schumacher will remain quite easy to drive with a diff in the front - these cars tended not to be too sensitive to set-up changes... so in effect it was difficult to get it too wrong!:thumbsup:

Cheers for the good news Dan! :thumbsup:

It doesnt look too big a job to convert it to take Lipo saddle packs, at most a new set of holes for the retaining posts and I shouldnt think the gaps where cells used to sit should be a problem. :)

I mentioned elsewhere that Im having a dabble at vac forming, so a lower body tray could go well there. :woot:

Just make sure that your batteries cannot slip out side ways from under your battery strap/s - even with the strap tightened right down, you'll be amazed how one knock can dislodge them. I currently race with a Corally Phi09' with a chassis designed to take Lipo - but my previous car (the original spec Phi) had the slots to accept Nimh cells - I used the supplied battery brace over the top - but as a double measure I used glass re-inforced tape wrapped around each of the battery posts to run around the outside of the cell. I think the Mi1 has little L shaped brackets to do the same job, which might fit your chassis?