Dex210 idler gears
 

Had some bining in the gearbox and been working on it all weekend to see if i could find out what the problem is. If i build the gearbox up with out the idler gears in place the diff and layshaft gear spin freely.

Put the gears in one half of the gearbox and they all spin fine, close up the case and put the screw in so that they are not tight at all and can feel there is a section where the gears bind.

Upon closer inspection one or both idler gear seam to be ovalised ever so slightly.

Questions:

1. Is this a common fault?

2. Is it posible that the shafts that hold the idlers could be bent?

3. Are there any other manufactures idlers that would fit in the 210? Thought i read somewhere that the RB6 Gears work in the 210?

4. Anybody know where i can buy the stock idlers as everywhere seams to be out of stock.

5. Are there any aluminium or ti idler gears avalible for the 210 at this time?


Thank in advance for any help.

It seems to be a problem with the casing itself, I would start there but buy the new b type housing, also make sure all the washers are in the right place.

I know the housing does not like to be tightened too much, just enough to close the gap

Ball or gear diff? The gear diff requires no shims. check the teeth of all the gears for debris, gently run a scapel blade in the deep recess, there my be some grit you can't see.

I doubt the gears are oval or the shafts are bent as this would cause more serious issues not just a little binding, the force required to bend those shafts would ruin the whole gearbox/car lol

One last thing, when I replaced the ball diff for a new gear diff there was a very small bind on about a tenth of a rotation but a few packs in it was gone so if you have any new parts in there give them chance to bed in.:thumbsup:

How do the gears bind? Oval gears should cause binding in a part of the gears' rotation. If it binds throughout the entire rotation your gears are binding on the casing.

I had a lot of issues with this myself, perhaps they're worth checking? They ranged from:

- A slightly too long layshaft spacer. The binding was solved with 0.1mm shims between the gear casing and the extension piece (312057-3, 310459-3 on Type B casing) that holds the larger of the two layshaft bearings.

- Too long screws for the motor plate. This caused them to extend outside of the motor plate, which caused them to hit the slipper plate. It was frustating and hard to find, but easily solved with an extra 0.5mm shim/ring just behind the screw head (so they don't extend as far).

- Too wide gear diff casings. The solution here is definetely NOT to tighten the casings further, they are extremely sensitive to overtightening! Instead, Dremel/shave off some material where the bearing sits against and shim away the slop you might have created by excess Dremel work. You can also contact Durango for replacement parts, but my replacement parts actually had a worse fit than the originals I had! :lol:

- Too large bearing seat on ball diff outdrive. This caused the bearing not to slide completely onto the outdrive (against the vertical face), which in term caused it to be too wide for the gear casings. When the bearing was pressed further onto it, it cracked. If this is the case, contact Durango: these parts should fit, and imo at 20GBP it's even more important that Durango cover this for you!

In addition, watch out for the following things:
- That you haven't overtightened the casings: They're quite sensitive to overtightening.
- That you haven't stretched the casings because gearbox parts were too wide.

Cheers for the help, will check gaps tomorrow. I am using a gear diff, which shims do you mean? the ones on the idlers?

Cheers for the help will inspect it again tomorrow. Have a second type A box to try as well so hopefully get something to work. :(

I think magictorch refers to the shims that are normally between the outdrive bearings and the diff itself.

Gears are only binding in one spot during the rotation. I cleaned them all of yesterday and rebuild it dry and they are still binding in one spot.

Looks like a small amount of rub on the gear casing so might try a new gear case or try and space the halves in some way.

Thanks again for the help.

I have the same problem with a brand new pair of gears that I am replacing a damaged gear with. Tried new gearbox case, new bearings & new idler pins. Still get a tight spot when assembled even without the diff fitted.

Can only assume a poor quality item so have annoyingly had to order another new set of gears as that is all I can think of.

Email Durango and tell them the issues you're having. They will and should replace the item free of charge.

PS: Their email is support@team-durango.com

I will drop them a line & see what happens, blooming frustrating.

Dex 210 gear box smooth running
 

I found that if there was a slight binding then running the gear box dry for a few minuets took off the high spots and then it was nice a free running.

Another trick is to build the gear box and leave the screws loose, run the gear box and tighten up the screws as it is turning, don't over tighten they just need nipping up no way near tight remember it is a plastic gear box and not off a Jcb digger.

It is also worth paying special attention to the bearings wash them in acetone (nail polish remover is a cheap easy way to buy it) then oil up (soak) with Triflow PTFE lubricant and allow to drain on a claean piece of kitchen roll.

I check that the outter shields are not damaged with a magnifying glass especially the right hand lay shaft slipper shaft bearing is good as this little one gets a lot of load and being sort of external gets dirt in it.