Setups:
 

Time for a more structured setups page on the TeamC forum I think.


There has been an ongoing setup thread from Iain Mellish for the TM2 here:
http://oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119861


At the RHR regional last weekend (TM2) where I have to say the car was amazing, (1,1,1,1 & won A) my setup was the same as Dave Poulters here http://www.petitrc.com/setup/teamc/s...ceway20130525/) but with the following changes:
Losi 35 oil front
Losi 30 oil rear
40g behind servo
gear diff 2000wt oil
Inner hole drilled on rear wishbone and used that, 2mm restrictor inside shock
Rear alloy bulkhead

The car was superb everywhere but over rotated a bit on the slippier hairpins, I didn't have a ball diff at the time but i think this may alleviate some of this, i will be trying it this weekend and will report back.

James

Good to see you are getting on well with the car, i have to say it is the easiest car ive driven for a while.

I see you are running weight behind the servo but what servo are you running? Standard or Low-Profile?

:thumbsup:

Thanks

David

It's a low profile. I also forgot to say I am running a front wing, mainly because the car seems to jump slightly nose up..

Hi James, thanks for posting this.

What's the thinking with the extra inner hole for the rear shocks?

Which front wing are you using?

The inner hole on the rear arm is something Iain Mellish did, I tried it and found it to help the car square up better coming out of tight slippier corners. It probably slightly reduces the speed at which you can take fast chicanes but the tradeoff is worth it as if the TM2 suffers with anything it seems to be putting the power down on slippy stuff and the rear stepping out. I've just got a ball diff to try this week which I tried briefly last night, first impressions are that it was a bit more fluid to drive, gear will be better on high grip though I think.

The front wing is just something I made from an old Losi front wing, its very basic, all it does is fill in the gap in the front shock tower, it has a slight scoop. I fastened it using the two front screws holding the front bulkhead on.

How did you find the ball diff? From Iain's latest setup it looks like he's on the gear diff.

In my opinion the ball diff makes the car completely planted at the rear end and more forgiving on tracks with less traction. Of course it needs more maintaining but I think it's well worth the hassle of a fifteen minute rebuild after a few meetings.
Give it a go, you won't be disappointed :thumbsup:

Is this thread just about TM2 setups? If so, It would be good to change the title to TM2 Setups. If its for any Team C vehicle setup, it would be good for the first post to mention TM2 at the beginning of the post.

I've had a look on the forums here and can't seem to find any info on what anti squat to run on the tm2, also are any mods needed to run the 1deg ally rear hubs?

Anti squat I find is a personal preference rather than a follow the crowd setting. Generally I dont like a lot, but have been playing around with it recently. I find the car is easier to drive with none or very little added.

To fit the hubs you will need to ream out the wishbones and fit the hinge pins from the TC02C (part number T02057)

Thanks, that helps, I've not tried any adjustment yet, might try a 1mm washer under the front block. Have you played with roll centers too? I've ordered some 1 degree alloy rear hubs(tu0237), I think they're a direct replacement, but if not, guess I'll have to do the mod you've suggested! I presume they aid traction in slippery conditions?

TU0237 are not a direct replacement, they are 2wd hubs so will need the mod John has suggested. Yes they give the car more rear end traction :thumbsup:

F345 setup
 

Here is my setup from 3rd place finish at this weekends F345's at Robinhood raceway....

Kit springs (medium) all round

front 40 weight oil with 2 holes drilled to 1.3

rear 40 weight oil with 2 holes drilled to 1.5

longest link on front with no washer under ballstud

rear camber link short inboard position with middle hole on Ally hub 2mm spacer under ballstud

0.5 degree negative camber on front

1.5 degree on rear

25 degree castor blocks

TU0213 brass front wishbone holder option

shortest wheelbase

yellow cut staggers with yellow mini spikes on rear when dry, first round wet so silver cut staggers with Ballistic greens

30 grams weight in front of gearbox when wet, removed in dry

5000 weight diff oil

No roll bar

for 3 legged finals I reduced oil in rear to 37.5 as felt a bit safer to fight for position.

Hi John333,
I assume you are using the -1°alloy rear hub?
Thx.

Ah yes, forgot to put that bit in.....used the 1 degree hub in rounds 1 to 3, changed to 0 degree in round 4 but put 1 degree back on for the finals. The 0 degree was still good but made the car a little unstable on the RHR track which is made up of various different types of astro with differing grip levels.

Olly Vaux who won was using the kit plastic rear hubs on his car so it's all personal preference really!

I am currently also running the plastic ones, just because I do not like aluminium for hub carriers (I bought the 0° and -1° TC02 and new -1° T4 carriers but not used them, ha); it seems that the bearings always get stuck in them!! (At least for me)

Is it still possible to get a ball diff to fit the TM2, sorry if this is obvious, I'm new to Team C.

T4 diff fits no problem... pretty sure there was a list of part numbers if you do a quick search....

Another trick with the TM2 if the track is a bit low on traction is to remove the Ally side bars and just put the screws back in with nuts where the lipo goes (to stop your batteries falling out lol)

Right guys,I ran at Mansfield today on carpet and the car went well,but not as well as I'd like. What I want to know is anybody running the anti-roll bar on high grip?. The reason I ask this is because going into high speed corners the inside rear wheel was lifting.

I tried the 1.3 bar on mine and it made a big difference. The inside wheel was still coming off the floor but not nearly as much.

Phill