FrSky 2.4ghz conversion to futaba 3vc guide
 

Ok, i recently converted my Futaba 3vc using the Frsky conversion, and after 3 meetings i can safely ay its better than my spektrum in many ways.

1. It doesn't have range issues like my spektrum module, i can only presume the over head power-lines may have reduced signal strength, but the frsky doesn't suffer this issue.

2. Boot up time is faster, it only save a second or two but when rushing to the start of a heat it all counts.lol

3. COST, simple.

So on Tuesday i converted a friends futaba 3vc using the same hack module and 4ch receiver. Here's a quick guide on how to do it.

Equipment used:
Frsky 2.4ghz Hack module - http://www.giantshark.co.uk/frsky-24...-p-405206.html
Frsky 2.4ghz 4ch receiver - http://www.giantshark.co.uk/24ghz-fr...-p-404806.html

If anybody has any questions please feel free to ask on here or send me a p.m. I will try and answer as quickly as possible.

Firstly, remove the aerial, then remove the back cover with 4x philips screws.
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/IMG_3861.jpg

Once inside, remove the module plate with the 2x silver phillips screws at the top. Now identify the +, - and signal wire. Pictured from left to right is BLANK_NEGATIVE_BLANK_POSTIVE_SIGNAL.
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/IMG_3863.jpg

Next, shorten the wires slightly on your hack module and tin with solder ready.
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/IMG_3864.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/IMG_3865.jpg

Now solder on the reverse of the above pictured module board, to make it easier mark the positive, negative and signal on the reverse as you dont want to mix these up.
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/IMG_3866.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/IMG_3867.jpg

Once soldered, wrap the cables around the module board as theres a good length there. You can cut and shorten if needs be but i didnt have time.
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/IMG_3868.jpg

Then i simply fixed the module and cables in place with some insulating tape wrapped around the module board. Not the best looking solution but it works.
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/IMG_3869.jpg

Now, before fixing the board back into place, you'll need to adapt the case to accept the aerial socket. I simply cut the lug off the top of the transmitter case.
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/IMG_3862.jpg

Next just thread the aerial through the hole and fix by tightening the nut supplied.
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/IMG_3870.jpg

Now, you can fix the module board back onto the transmitter with the 2 silver philips screws. Note i also added 3 pieces of small heatshrink onto the existing pins just incase they make contact. You can cut them off but i wanted the option to convert back if anything changes in future.
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/IMG_3872.jpg

Next the rear casing will need to be modified to make room for the wires and module. I simply cut the blank plate off with a craft knife, and also note that i have cut away the material at the top and bottom of the housing to make space for the wires.
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/IMG_3873.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/IMG_3874.jpg

Now its ready to re-fit the back cover, so tighten the 4 screws back up. nd finally to cover the gap and protect the module i used the outer cover of the original 40mhz unit which clicks into place. You can however drill 2 holes and fix the modules bind button with led to the blank cover, but as its only ever used to bind i figured it was better off hidden away.
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/IMG_3876.jpg

And remember, before binding to a receiver, ensure you enable PPM as PCM or RF can damage the module. To do this just enter menu 3 and scroll across to MOD and scroll to select PPM.

Great guide - cheers Jamie! :thumbsup:

Glad you're loving the FrSky setup - I saw quite a few of them around the oOple race, so they are certainly gaining in popularity with the racers! :)

Nice guide mate. I used the plug in module on my 3vc, i'm sure its just the same but take seconds :)

great tutorial ! thanks ! :thumbsup: i'm now convinced !

i was considering the hack solution as well because the antenna on top of the transmitter is more sensible ; it looks better and reduces risk of breakage...

why aren't you using this frsky receiver though ?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ompatible.html

it has a plastic case and is very tiny, only downside is the twin antenna i guess... any feedback on these ?

Hi Martin,
I just use the replacement module instead of the hack module and very happy with it. Already using it in 4 cars (and more to follow) without any hick up. I you want to have a look at it, I will at the next KK in Kampenhout. I am using the 7 and 4 channel RX without any issue!

The receiver you link to isn't compatible with the frsky hack type 2.4ghz module, this is a receiver made by frsky to be compatible with the futaba FASST module as a cheaper alternative.

damn i hadn't noticed that ! glad i asked here... i was about to order 3... thanks again :thumbsup:

with the plug in module the aerial actually fits up behind the handle, i actually think its less likely to get caught that having the aerial out of the top...

Careful Rich - when your transmitter falls backwards sitting on your pit table, the aerial will take the force of this. And it will take it on the most delicate part - the hinge.

If this breaks or becomes loose then at best you have a dodgy aerial and at worst, youve got a broken transmitter and have to buy (and fit!) a new aerial.

Totally up to you chum, but I would strongly advise to consider the proper "aerial out the top" conversion. Dead easy and safe as house :thumbsup:

Great write up Jamie.

It was my transmitter that was converted in those pics :thumbsup:, and it works very well and Jamie made it look easy.

I would recommend this setup to anyone as it's very affordable and works extremely well.

Hi mate, see pic below, i'd say my aerial is possbly even safer than being on top, should my tranny fall in any direction it cant be caught and snapped....

Ahh cool mate!! Totally agree, nice and safe :thumbsup:

When you said "behind the handle" I thought you meant outside it.

On the KO this wouldnt have worked as the handle is further up and even when the aerial is "inside" the handle, the base of it still takes the brunt of any impacts.

Happy tranny-ing! :lol:

ah yeah my bad! i had a ko and the aerial stuck way out past the handle!

Sorry to cut in on this chat but has anybody converted a 3PK (The 3VC's wheel brother!)

Either the hack or used the plug in module?

I'm presuming the hack is the same pin layout as the 3VC?


Many Thanks

Kevin

I don't use the FrSky hack or plug in modules
I use the Original Futaba FASST Module with the FrSky FASST Receivers

On the Futaba ( like the KO ) modules the aerials come out of the lower half of the unit and as such are in danger of being hit in a tranny tip situation

There is an easy Solution to this to protect the aerial!
The handle on the back of the tranny, simple un-bolt it and mount it back on un-side down, this way the handle now protects the protruding aerial !!
Hope this helps!

I was told by someone on the giantcod forum that all futaba pin layouts are the same, so I would say the 3vc's ugly sister will be the same

Thanks.

Ugly sister, good one :p

John333 is correct, all futaba module pins are laid out the same.

Before converting mine i looked all over the web to ensure i was picking up on the correct pins, and they're all the same from the 3ch upwards.

Appreciate the info. Looks like I have some soldering to do in my future:thumbsup:

Can you use the TFR4 RX with this hack mod.

I currently use the TFR4 with my 3PKS TX using a Futaba Fasst Module so it would be handy if I convert my sons 3VC the this FRSky mod that I can use the same RX's

Cheers

Mark