Pinion/spur mesh
 

Hi all,
How do you guys set the mesh of the pinion to spur? I've always used a slip of paper in between, push the motor pinion up and tightened but I 'think' I'm not doing something right here.

I set it with the standard spur gear in there (brand new 48dp 23t pinion) removed the paper and it looked good, but when I push the buggy slowly along the floor it sounds loud and rough! (Not sure I should be pushing along the floor so please tell me if I shouldn't) So, then I stripped the slipper and built it back up with a brand new rw racing spur, set the mesh and the noise is exactly the same.

I haven't had chance to run the motor as I'm waiting on some new cable to connect it all up with but if I turn the pinion with my fingers there is no noise

Is this normal?

Thanks

Just to add its a speed passion v3 6.5t and I've just pulled this from the archive:

I think the clicking noise is the little bit of play between the spur and pinion. As you turn the motor it reaches a point and then quickly jumps a little, when it does that little jump it slaps the pinion against the tooth on the spur.

This does sound like my problem as when I push it a little faster the noise disappears, something called notching?

Drivetrain noise.
 

There is always going be some noise from a shaft driven 4wd buggy.

But I would check the following..

If you have a brand new rw spur gear and you think it's still noisy then i would try another pinion. I have had a rw pinion and it made a horrendous noise, chànged to a hpi pinion and was fine. With regards to meshing i personally check it by eye and feel. Take out the battery and look directly in front of the meshing. I hold the spur gear and rotate it every 60deg and then rock it backwards and forwards to see if there is some backlash. You can feel it with your finger and there should a little backlash. Even though rw spur gears are machined yoi can yoi may find a little tight spot; that's why I rotate it all the round to make there is no binding / tight spot.

If you think there is still excessive noise i would check each diff and make sure they are shimmed correctly. I found that pinion to crown gear can often have binding spots. Best way to sort that out is to rotate the mid shaft and feel for any binding. If there is , use the copper shims to get the correct mesh. Also when tightening up the diff housing just nip up the 3 screws as over tightening can also cause binding.

The cvd shafts can be noisy make sure there is no play and they are lubricated.
I use the rubber boots the go over the cvd joints and i grease the inside of the boots. If they are dry this can make a right racket.

Can really think of anything.

If all the checks above fail maybe look at the motor and bearings.

Just saw your edit
 

This may be what your describing. Some motors have more powerful magnets. I had a lrp x20 and it felt really notchy compared to my previous motor which made think it might be a drivetrain related.

All was fine.

Hope you solve it.

When the pinion isn't engaged the transmission is very smooth even when I apply resistance to the spur with my finger. The motor is quite notchey i.e. you can feel it as the rotor jumps from magnet to magnet, I think this is what's causing the noise, I could be wrong tho. Don't think I can't properly diagnose it until I've ran the motor to be honest

Cheers
Nick

Im really not sure how to describe how to set the mesh but ill give it a go, the way that i do it is to have the smallest amount of play possible, i set the mesh then i will hold the pinion with my finger then rock the spur back and forth to feel the play while the wheels are of the ground and i want some play but very little for 10th cars, so basically you want the spur to rock back and forth a little but the smallest amount possible without it being tight

Mine feels exactly the same but is fine when running on track. I found you perhaps need to run a slightly tighter mesh than in some other cars but the rough/notch noise is almost certainly the magnets in the motor. I have a fairly new SP 6.5 in mine and it sounds like it matches the description you have made. The kit spur isn't very round; the RW will be rounder for sure. This can make meshing a bit more troublesome but should still be possible.

FWIW the 410 (you do have a 410 don't you, can't remember!) does have quite a klonky/noisy transmission. When i got mine it was (by far) the noisiest car at the club.

Don't us paper to set the mesh, its too thick for 48dp.

I used the 'feel' method for a small amount of play. Ran it yesterday, no noise :) smooth and quick so I'm happy. Thanks for the responses!!

:) Nice