dex210 CVD too short?
 

hey guys, just recently encountering some strange problem.

sometimes halfway trough a right hand corner when the outside suspension is fully compressed and under accelaretion my cvd pops out?

when looking at it on the bench from underneath, if i fully compress the shocks, my cvd pin in the diffcup comes out a little.

when arms are level, the pins only sits like 1 mm inside the cups. just as if the cvd's are too short.
i have my T-nut on the right side, and the cvd that pops off is always the 1 on the left side (looking from behind the car)

i did have a crash with another car, so im changing my antisquat plate on the front of the back arms because it seemed warped. but i dont expect that to cure my problem.

any tips?

oh, laying the 2 cvd's next to each other, there is a difference in where that little bobble sits in the middle.
also read some things on inserting the correct pinhole in your cvd's, but that had to do with rubbing the T-nut in the diffcup.

Cant you shim the whole driveshaft in towards the diff more or even limit the max travel on the shock?

Contact TD; I'm sure they'll help to determine if the driveshaft is faulty.

are they same length if you measure them? do you have a bent hinge pin?

shimming was not an option, there is simply no room, unless you have slob on your parts.

cvd's where the same length, also could not find a bent pin or shaft.

as said earlier i installed a new toe/squat block and that helped a little. if taken the whole thing apart to measure, but could find any thing longer than another. limiting shock travel seems the only way to go.

never had this problem before, so would like te hear if anybody has the same issue with there hingepins coming out of there diffcups when fully compressed and hingepin is sitting vertical.

thx for the advice so far guys!
seems metalmikey's option should work to limit travel :)

gonna test it tomorrow.

I have the same issue. Can't run less than 1 degree camber or it pops

Do you have the rubber bump stop fitted to the shocks? Or shock boots? Either of these will limit the up travel of the suspension a bit and may cure this issue.

1 centimeter of nitro fuel line i had laying around to put around the shockshaft to limit the up travel should do it.

never heard of any bump stop?? but no, i dont have that fitted

Limiters fitted as per kit.

check your rear droop screws
loosen these up a but and it should be all gravy

Its got something to do to the position of the camberlink.
In some positions it will cause the cvd to pop out

or you could just start to use the travel limiter screw, did it for me, as i had the same issue, TD would do nicely to add 1 or 2mm to the length of the CVD.

Turn each driveshaft so the pin is vertical, adjust the droop screw until the pin is barely trying to come out of the drive cup and job done. The 210 still has plenty of droop even when you've carried this out. :thumbsup:

If you run with full droop then you'll get the wheels bouncing up and down because the driveshafts bind. If the driveshafts were longer they'll bind up worse.

this has started to happen to be, on both cars.

As for adding fuel tube to the shock shafts tried it out of desperation,cvds stay in but it drives like shit.

Drive shafts are too short. Fact.

Same problem, i think its a combo of driveshafts, a bit of end float in the gearbox and some slop in the links allow them to pop out.

I have put brand new shafts in and its the same.

One thing i have noticed is the gear diff is wider than the ball diff when measureing from the outdrive to outdrive so why cant they make the outdrives wider on the ball diff?

Not on really, I wanted a 2wd buggy. With 1.5mm under the droop screws, 8mm of limiters on the shock shaft to limit the up travel, all to stop the too short drive shafts falling out ive now got a touring car.

similar to the ball stud/cup problem. Just ignore it and take the money.

Have you tried contacting the support e-mail @ TD with your issue? We've mentioned on here numerous times if you have a problem with a part get in contact with the TD support on the e-mail address on the website rather than posting on forums. It's the only way we'll officially deal with your problem.

There must be something wrong with the parts you have as I run no limiters in the shocks and have the droop screws all the way (on wishbones with a counterbore). I have never had a rear driveshaft pop out in over a year of running the car its the same on I had at oOple and nothing has changed since that meeting with anything that should affect drive shafts popping out.

There's probably a very simple issue here but until you contact the support guys we can't help.

As for the ball cups, the material changed a while ago and you don't see any of the team needing to run other manufacturers equipment to finish races. They trust the TD stuff at National meetings, if they didn't you'd see none TD parts on their cars.

I've paid my money I've built it properly.
I'm not the only one with the same problem.

Looked at half a dozen at the weekend and they all look like they just about make it.


So I didn't see john newman change his for rpm ones at maritime this year then after loosing a track rod in the 1st leg of the A?

I think your comments are unfair if you have not even bothered to contact TD about it? If I've ever had a problem they have sorted it out without fail.

Give them the chance before you slate them!

I never said you didn't build it properly. Please read what I actually wrote :) Just that there might be a simple parts issue at hand. But if you don't contact support then you won't find out.

Jorn Neumann was testing new materials at the event which weren't quite right.
He ran rpm ones at that meeting and since then the material has changed.