7.5deg Castor blocks
 

Has anyone who has fitted these, found the bind on the w/bone?

P

Fitted them on sunday, didn't bind on the wishbone but they binding a bit on the steering king pin, also with 2mm track washers it didnt fit the BRCA box so I had to dremel the driveshaft down. On the upside the car was a lot easier to drive:thumbsup:

Ian

I have run these for a while on both my Cats, and found no bind with them. I have also dremelled the ends off the driveshaft, they do stick out excessively though.

Paul, I think with the alloy blocks, it is more critical that the screws are 100% square in the wishbones - and mine aren't!! I had the same as you, a little binding of the screws/pins.

I also had some binding.
During a practice day, I ran the car with the screws not totally inserted and some metal polishing paste in the holes. I tightened them a bit after each run. After 5-6 runs, they were fine and slop free.

Are these available in plastic too.....bought a seconhand Cat and found it has one of these in plastic on one side and the standard one on the other...

plastic yokes are 10deg. alum. yokes are 7.5 deg. I know the cat was designed with high traction (euro tracks) in mind hence lots of steering built in but on most of our tracks here in the states it make the car just 2 twitchy! 2mm track spacers and the 7.5 yokes make the car so much more predictable esp. when exiting a corner in my opinion.

Did schuy do away with the 7.5 inner front pivot and replace it with the 7.5 yokes? I wanted to see what both 7.5 parts would do for the car.

Far as i know you can still get the 7.5 inner mounts.

i have tried both inner and outer 7.5 deg blocks.now,if you really really want a pointy car thats what you need.i went back to 10 deg inner and 7.5 outer.

So is running the standard yoke with 7.5 rake holders the same as the 7.5 yoke and the standard 10deg rake holders? Is this a bit like the Losi XX-4 where adding rear toe in can act differently when you add it to the the hub verses the wishbone hinge pin? Are Schumacher going to consider making a plastic 7.5 yoke? Sorry I know that is a lot of questions but just eager to know :)

Ami, it's not the same no, like you say, similar to rear toe in.

changing the outer is a pure caster change, but changing the inner also has an effect in how the caster and wheelbase changes throughout the suspension travel.

So from this then it seems that people are preferring just the 7.5 yoke change. Matt do you know if a plastic 7.5 yoke is in the works? Is the alloy yoke flat on the top where the ball stud goes or will we have to dremel it flat like the standard plastic one?

It's flat across the top, so no need for dremel. There is also an extra hole to lengthen the top link a little.

I'm not aware of any plans for a plastic 7.5 block - tbh i'd be very surprised if they did one.

With the 7.5s I assume the car is easier to drive.

I currently have the kit ones and the 12.5 on the car. Planning on ordering the 7.5s over Christmas.

Talking about the Binding,

I found that once the hinge pin screw is screwed into the yoke, through the wishbone, I use a heat gun on the wishbone area near the hinge screw so it takes out any fouling.

I think the binding some times happens when screwing into a wishbone hole (for the first time) it may not be 90 degrees so when it pops through it can go into the yoke hole under pressure from the side.

So by heating up the joint it will let it settle to its natural position and then free up.