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Old 09-02-2018
Peter_B Peter_B is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 11

Originally Posted by cjm_2008 View Post
1. You shouldn't need any additional bits to run a shorty lipo.

2. Saddles will fit, but shorty packs are much easier to work with & the car has been designed with those dimensions in mind - including the ability to move fore & aft to fine tune the weight distribution.

3. I'd start the other way round - motor rearwards, battery ahead of it. Understeer is easier to deal with & tune out. You want a car that pushes as you're re-learning (unless you're happy with a squirty car!). I can't remember what's recommended in the manual. go with whatever that says. And don't mess with it until you're able to lap consistently & accurately judge what you want the car to do.

4. gearing seems fine (go smaller if the track is twisty), but run a fan on your ESC if you're not already doing so.

5. don't worry about slipper setting, there's bound to be people willing to help & race control may be able to give you a minute or two on your own on the straight to tweak the adjuster nut.

The tyre choice you've gone for is pretty much the standard now across all 2wd carpet setups regardless of brand. Personally I much prefer the feel of the cactus tyres vs mini pins and the wear rate is vastly improved.
Thanks for the reply.

I thought the belt would get in the way if trying to run a shorty lipo, rearward of the motor, without the conversion kit. I guess I'll know more when I can have a good look at all the parts in the box.

Are there any pictures anywhere that show the various motor and battery positions?

ESC has got a fan, I just need to get some screws to mount it. ESC was second hand and screws are missing.

If I run the 13.5T motor to start with, would you recommend setting up for a gear ratio in the same ball park as the 83/23 combination for the 6.5T?
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