I've used inside limiters in every shock I've built. We did this back in the day for every shock we built.
First you can only do this if the instructions say thread the eyelet onto the end of the shock entirely. Because we will be robbing a bit of the thread inside the eyelet here, and too little makes it more prone to failure.
The majority of shocks have about 7mm of thread. More than plenty if you are a competent driver and don't hit things.
If you can, add 2mm spacers (more, if you are instructed to add any by the manual) in the shock, under the piston, before fitting the piston in the shock.
Now when you build the rest of the shock leave 2mm of thread showing, above the eyelet.
The overall length of the shock then isn't affected and you are running the kit setup.
If you need or want to add droop to the setup, thread out the eyelet by 0.5, 1 or 2mm. If you want to limit the droop more, thread in the eyelet so there's less than 2mm of thread showing.
Note - adding droop is rare, but if you do, and it improves the handling, you're advised to go into the shock and add it as a spacer, and thread the eyelet in to the 2mm mark again.
This lets you test it without making massive shock changes at the track.
I also fit an old o-ring on the outside of the shock shaft. If the shock ever lands hard off a jump, it's a little give, before the bottom of the shock hits the eyelet. Combination of the two - I've never lost an eyelet from a shock shaft.