Ok, i recently converted my Futaba 3vc using the Frsky conversion, and after 3 meetings i can safely ay its better than my spektrum in many ways.
1. It doesn't have range issues like my spektrum module, i can only presume the over head power-lines may have reduced signal strength, but the frsky doesn't suffer this issue.
2. Boot up time is faster, it only save a second or two but when rushing to the start of a heat it all counts.lol
3. COST, simple.
So on Tuesday i converted a friends futaba 3vc using the same hack module and 4ch receiver. Here's a quick guide on how to do it.
Equipment used:
Frsky 2.4ghz Hack module -
http://www.giantshark.co.uk/frsky-24...-p-405206.html
Frsky 2.4ghz 4ch receiver -
http://www.giantshark.co.uk/24ghz-fr...-p-404806.html
If anybody has any questions please feel free to ask on here or send me a p.m. I will try and answer as quickly as possible.
Firstly, remove the aerial, then remove the back cover with 4x philips screws.
Once inside, remove the module plate with the 2x silver phillips screws at the top. Now identify the +, - and signal wire. Pictured from left to right is BLANK_NEGATIVE_BLANK_POSTIVE_SIGNAL.
Next, shorten the wires slightly on your hack module and tin with solder ready.
Now solder on the reverse of the above pictured module board, to make it easier mark the positive, negative and signal on the reverse as you dont want to mix these up.
Once soldered, wrap the cables around the module board as theres a good length there. You can cut and shorten if needs be but i didnt have time.
Then i simply fixed the module and cables in place with some insulating tape wrapped around the module board. Not the best looking solution but it works.
Now, before fixing the board back into place, you'll need to adapt the case to accept the aerial socket. I simply cut the lug off the top of the transmitter case.
Next just thread the aerial through the hole and fix by tightening the nut supplied.
Now, you can fix the module board back onto the transmitter with the 2 silver philips screws. Note i also added 3 pieces of small heatshrink onto the existing pins just incase they make contact. You can cut them off but i wanted the option to convert back if anything changes in future.
Next the rear casing will need to be modified to make room for the wires and module. I simply cut the blank plate off with a craft knife, and also note that i have cut away the material at the top and bottom of the housing to make space for the wires.
Now its ready to re-fit the back cover, so tighten the 4 screws back up. nd finally to cover the gap and protect the module i used the outer cover of the original 40mhz unit which clicks into place. You can however drill 2 holes and fix the modules bind button with led to the blank cover, but as its only ever used to bind i figured it was better off hidden away.
And remember, before binding to a receiver, ensure you enable PPM as PCM or RF can damage the module. To do this just enter menu 3 and scroll across to MOD and scroll to select PPM.