The bodyshell looked great!
The good news is it doesn't take many hopups to make a competitive car.
It looked a little slow on the straights and was losing a lot of speed in the corners.
This is what I would do:
If it doesn't have a full set of bearings then buy some. If you already have bearings or do buy some, then soak all of them in WD40 in a jar overnight to remove the grease, shaking the jar every few hours. The thick grease is only there for storage, to stop them rusting.
To keep the motor clean and at top performance, spray it out with electrical contact cleaner each week. The motor will get faster and faster each week until it dies in a few months.
Replace the factory shocks with an oil filled set designed for an m chassis. Plastic or alloy. What's important here is shock length, not the oil or the spring rates, although short springs are a must. Use internal spacers on the shock shaft to adjust the overall shock length to 55mm. Final ride height should be 4 mm front and rear, measured from the centre of the chassis at the lowest point, adjusted using threaded collars or preload spacers depending on the shocks.
Replace the stock gear diff with a Tamiya ta-03 ball diff (built using thick anti wear grease, not the stuff it comes with). This will allow the car to maintain speed through the corners.
Buy the M05 front shock mount (alloy or carbon) so you can stand the front shocks up to almost vertical, this gives a more direct and predictable steering feel.
Your car should run some toe-out at the front to improve straight line stability. I use 2mm of spacers in the middle of the steering links.
Put 3x5 gram wheel weights inside the front bumper and 25 grams on top.
Try and move all your electronics forward in the chassis. I removed the roll bars allowing me to fit a teu101 with it's case removed on the chassis above the battery.
If anyone suggests adding weight to the rear, ignore them. You want the rear to be as light as possible.
Your tyres looked okay.
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