As bigT suggests.
No need for the new top cap, it is just a slightly machined version and you can easily dremel the kit one to clear (obvious where it rubs when you fit it).
Drive shafts depend on chassis configuration as per the manual. I run my motor mount forward 100% of the time, some people shift forward and back so up to you really.
Be GENTLE when you build the diff .... just GENTLY nip the screws down .... NO POWER DRIVERS!!!!!
Make sure there is no vertical movement as you would the slipper, use grub screws in the holes over the bearings if you have any vertical movement and only GENTLY nip them down.
I run 500k in the diff in damp-full wet, as soon as it dries I'm back on the slipper.
Hope that helps a little.
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