Hi all,
This has all been mentioned before but with a lot more TM2's out there being used now from the second batch I'll refresh the info
Top Tip:
BEFORE you plug in your lipo dremel or file away the battery brace around the area where the connectors enter the lipo, you will need to remove around 2 or 3mm of the carbon brace. Don't be worrying about strength, this thing is beyond overkill for holding in the lipo so cut away more than you need (better safe than sorry). When you've finished mark the end so you know which way round to fit it in the car.
Top Tip:
Team C have blessed us all with tapered pistons as standard items in the kit, be careful when building the shocks as the instruction manual shows them the wrong way up. The taper should face down the shaft towards the thread
Top Tip:
When assembling the rear top deck there are two small spacers that fit under the deck on top of the alloy centre assembly. These are easily lost when working on the car at the track. To avoid dropping them, super glue them to the top deck.
Top Tip:
If you want a more planted rear end to the car try using the 1 degree alloy rear hubs from the TC02c. To use these you will need to also use the pivot pins from the 2wd family and ream out the hole in the wishbone to accept the larger pin.
Top Tip:
To create more flex (more grip) cut through the rear top deck with a dremel.
Top Tip:
Remember that BOTH the blocks that hold the rear pivot pins in place (one in front and one behind the gearbox) can be turned upside down to give more or less anti squat. You can also add spacers under these for even more adjustment as required.
Top Tip:
The two screws that hold the motor clamp in place need to be TIGHT so my tip is to replace them with cap head screws that you can really crank up tight.
Feel free to add more of your own TTTTTTT (TM2 Team Top Tips To This Thread)
Alec