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  #2841  
Old 02-04-2012
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After some discussions with Fibre lyte we have an idea for making a block to do the job.

It fits directly above the front gearbox holes that are by the pivot block. The idea is the block will have two holes drilled into it by fibrelyte (bigger so a brass tube can be cut to size and glued within the block giving strength) but then they will make me a jig so that I can drill the side as I will be going against the grain. Then when done I should have a brass tube cut and glued in to give strength and then bolt to the chassis. This should also stop some dirt getting in as well and shouldnt be too expensive either.

I am also looking at the pivot block in CF as well (I designed and tested these twelve years ago) and will when happy get these posted on the website with all the other extras.
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  #2842  
Old 02-04-2012
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One piece upper deck (Lazer ZX-R) or Two pieces (Lazer ZX)?

Is there an advantage of having a one piece upper deck?

The reason I am asking because no matter how I tighten the front belt from above, the belt will rub on the first "bridge".

If having the 2 pieces upper deck system is the same as the 1 piece, then I would go for the 2 pieces, so that my front belt won't rub anything.
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  #2843  
Old 02-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
After some discussions with Fibre lyte we have an idea for making a block to do the job.

It fits directly above the front gearbox holes that are by the pivot block. The idea is the block will have two holes drilled into it by fibrelyte (bigger so a brass tube can be cut to size and glued within the block giving strength) but then they will make me a jig so that I can drill the side as I will be going against the grain. Then when done I should have a brass tube cut and glued in to give strength and then bolt to the chassis. This should also stop some dirt getting in as well and shouldnt be too expensive either.

I am also looking at the pivot block in CF as well (I designed and tested these twelve years ago) and will when happy get these posted on the website with all the other extras.
Welshy, Maybe it's monday morning here, but I am not quote sure what you are talking about. I will wait and see what crazy ideas you come up with to mount the CF rear gear box.
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  #2844  
Old 02-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
Problem is the belt doesnt give room to play with and you have to take the movement of the belt as well. I was thinking of adding a block ontop of the pivot block, but now im contimplating filing two flat spots on a pole and drilling m3 holes through and attach that way.

Then again looking at it we still have to do a redesign to make it fit and attach to the original chassis gearbox front holes and as you say go upwards to attach to those two holes directly above, then i can move the pole to the outer hole originally put there for the pivot block attachment.

I understand it's easier said then done.

but what I was saying is this.



Blue is the pivot block, red is the piece that mounts your gearbox to the pivot block. Having it rounded on one side can help you clear the belt. The 2 lines between the pivot block are where your bolts goes thru.

Sorry for the rough drawing, I only have microsoft paint to manipulate JPG files.
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  #2845  
Old 02-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oosh123 View Post
One piece upper deck (Lazer ZX-R) or Two pieces (Lazer ZX)?

Is there an advantage of having a one piece upper deck?

The reason I am asking because no matter how I tighten the front belt from above, the belt will rub on the first "bridge".

If having the 2 pieces upper deck system is the same as the 1 piece, then I would go for the 2 pieces, so that my front belt won't rub anything.
One piece is better but redesign it by filing away a chunck so the belt doesnt hit it. I redesigned my top deck which reminds me to get fibre lyte to update their system. Mind you a two piece would still work but you may get a fractional movement (cant think of the word)
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  #2846  
Old 02-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oosh123 View Post
I understand it's easier said then done.

but what I was saying is this.



Blue is the pivot block, red is the piece that mounts your gearbox to the pivot block. Having it rounded on one side can help you clear the belt. The 2 lines between the pivot block are where your bolts goes thru.

Sorry for the rough drawing, I only have microsoft paint to manipulate JPG files.
I understood but wont work as the pivot block screw holes are in line with the cf gearbox sides so cant add ontop. My design is add a block ontop a total of 19mm which should miss the holes and give enough to do the job, and ive also designed a work of art as well that looks great and avoids the pivot block. Ive only got a total of 21mm to play with so have opted for two designs.

Oh forgot to add found the pivot block designs and will be having them made so more cf bling to add to my zxrs.
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  #2847  
Old 02-04-2012
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After seeing Johnny got himself a ZX-S or Evo. I want one myself too =(.

I wonder what happened to all of the kyosho's plastic injection molds or its engineering drawings. If I have a week with those......
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  #2848  
Old 02-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
I understood but wont work as the pivot block screw holes are in line with the cf gearbox sides so cant add ontop. My design is add a block ontop a total of 19mm which should miss the holes and give enough to do the job, and ive also designed a work of art as well that looks great and avoids the pivot block. Ive only got a total of 21mm to play with so have opted for two designs.

Oh forgot to add found the pivot block designs and will be having them made so more cf bling to add to my zxrs.
Drill 2 more tap holes on the pivot block. so you can screw it from the top =).

Can't wait for your pictures.
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  #2849  
Old 02-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oosh123 View Post
After seeing Johnny got himself a ZX-S or Evo. I want one myself too =(.

I wonder what happened to all of the kyosho's plastic injection molds or its engineering drawings. If I have a week with those......
As i race my proto still ive changed the crap kyosho designs as the gearbox front is as brittle as rice paper and rear gearbox tower mount as well as that snaps when you roll. Chassis flexes (thats the word) on the three piece sections and the alloy plate bends. Already done the hard work, fibre lyte have all carbon fibre parts thanks to me but spares dont exist any where. Besides the zxr will be better.
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  #2850  
Old 02-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oosh123 View Post
Drill 2 more tap holes on the pivot block. so you can screw it from the top =).

Can't wait for your pictures.
Then you have to drill two more chassis holes and countersink, making a break point for the chassis as it will be very very weak there. You should have seen that issue. My idea is to use the original front gearbox holes on the chassis so solving one issue and also blocking dirt from getting in at the bottom. Look at my pivot block on my new gearbox and imagine it 9mm higher in between the cf plates attaching to the hole above. Im filing the whole section and drilling slowly through the grain to make room for a copper tube which can be glued for strength. Dont need it for the chassis holes as its not through the grain and a narrow threadlocked nut will hold it in sufficiently. Ive cut a bit off the top to account for the nuts without affecting the original block layout.

Now thats all down to if it works but if not my other design looks great and hope its what i use. Its a design that i put a lot of thought into using those chassis holes and bending in places to avoid hitting the belt.
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  #2851  
Old 03-04-2012
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Welshy,

Since we are re-designing the layshaft with aluminum pulley and etc., wouldn't it be a nice time to upgrade the internal gear ratio of the lazer as well? 2.214 gear ratio is a 20+ year old thing, and since we are mostly using brushless motors now, don't you think we have enough torque and can trade some in for speed?

Or is it a bad idea to temper with it?
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  #2852  
Old 03-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oosh123 View Post
Welshy,

Since we are re-designing the layshaft with aluminum pulley and etc., wouldn't it be a nice time to upgrade the internal gear ratio of the lazer as well? 2.214 gear ratio is a 20+ year old thing, and since we are mostly using brushless motors now, don't you think we have enough torque and can trade some in for speed?

Or is it a bad idea to temper with it?
Speed isnt an issue as once you get the setup right the car will be quicker than most. Ratio is fine as it is, plenty of room to gear up if using a 5.0, 5.5, 6.5, 7.5 and 8.5

Once we have done the rear its the front next and possibly after that a diff redesign.
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  #2853  
Old 03-04-2012
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Hi,

I've not posted on here for a while (ok, far too long) but the excuse is that I've been sorting out my wedding in the summer.

My ZX-R is nearing completion and whilst its not as 'nice' as some in this forum I think I've done an OK job.

The ZX-R has been fully rebuilt.

I replaced all the bearings with the blue ones from ebay, tough racing belts, new screw kit, blue steering, new schumacher tyres and inserts. The shocks have been rebuilt with all original part and new oil 30wt in the rear and 40wt in the front.

Oh, I also stole the idea of velcro on the top deck, thought it looked good.

I have not quite finished as I have a Modelsport UK Sniper RV-12 brushed ESC at home waiting for me (I'm working away from home) as the original hitec sp520 has seen better days (on a test run in the garden it was sparking and the car wasn't particularly quick, not a good sign, i guess?) therefore a new one was needed.

I also have a Kamtec Parma Tomcat shell to paint and fit. So it should be up and running in the next couple of weeks.

Should be good.
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  #2854  
Old 05-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bignick View Post
Hi,

I've not posted on here for a while (ok, far too long) but the excuse is that I've been sorting out my wedding in the summer.

My ZX-R is nearing completion and whilst its not as 'nice' as some in this forum I think I've done an OK job.

The ZX-R has been fully rebuilt.

I replaced all the bearings with the blue ones from ebay, tough racing belts, new screw kit, blue steering, new schumacher tyres and inserts. The shocks have been rebuilt with all original part and new oil 30wt in the rear and 40wt in the front.

Oh, I also stole the idea of velcro on the top deck, thought it looked good.

I have not quite finished as I have a Modelsport UK Sniper RV-12 brushed ESC at home waiting for me (I'm working away from home) as the original hitec sp520 has seen better days (on a test run in the garden it was sparking and the car wasn't particularly quick, not a good sign, i guess?) therefore a new one was needed.

I also have a Kamtec Parma Tomcat shell to paint and fit. So it should be up and running in the next couple of weeks.

Should be good.
Ace. What wind motor? Also is the rear tower alloy, if yes then i would advise replacing with carbon fibre fom fibre lyte.
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  #2855  
Old 05-04-2012
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Iso,

Any idea what the part number is for the spacer washers that were wafer thin and used to push the diff bearings further out on each side of the diff. I had this on my ZX in 89 but doesnt appear on the manual, unless im being blind.
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  #2856  
Old 05-04-2012
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I have 2 motors. I have the pink one that is installed which is an ARS (Associated Reedy Sonic? - though when I emailed them about what turn it is they didn't know anything about the motor), all I know is ?tx3 on the can its has ARS Works Team Spec 5.0 modified.

The other motor has scribed on it 16tx4 and i've never fitted it before. Its got a green can and revtech stickers on it.

When I bought the ZX-R when I was kid it was second hand so these were the motors I got with it.

I'll have a look at the rear shock tower too, maybe get it as next months 'treat'.
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  #2857  
Old 05-04-2012
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I dont recall that reedy ever made an pink can motor.

mvh isobarik
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  #2858  
Old 05-04-2012
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Hi,

I typed what it has on the can into the web and that is what it came back with, not sure really what it is and I haven't taken it apart.

Maybe someone will have some suggestions.
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  #2859  
Old 05-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bignick View Post
I have 2 motors. I have the pink one that is installed which is an ARS (Associated Reedy Sonic? - though when I emailed them about what turn it is they didn't know anything about the motor), all I know is ?tx3 on the can its has ARS Works Team Spec 5.0 modified.

The other motor has scribed on it 16tx4 and i've never fitted it before. Its got a green can and revtech stickers on it.

When I bought the ZX-R when I was kid it was second hand so these were the motors I got with it.

I'll have a look at the rear shock tower too, maybe get it as next months 'treat'.

If its a Reedy the name Reedy is plain to see. ARS isnt Reedy. I think it may have been a one man show company in Wales Cliff Evans (I think) who's son (Nicky) won quite a few of the stock events using them but could be wrong. I am DOH!!! as your not talking about brushed but brushless. I will investigate.

Shock tower from the fibrelyte link below in my reply.
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Team Fabiix Batteries (Yuasa), always in front when using sanyo scrcs.
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  #2860  
Old 05-04-2012
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Hi,

The motors I have are brushed, they are old but good condition.

Maybe go brushless in the future but not at the moment.
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