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  #21  
Old 08-05-2012
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Originally Posted by LRP View Post
Thanx Ian , I could do with some tips on colours
, the red I used is johns candy red , I used 3 lite coats
Then 1 lite coat of Crome backed with black , which made the candy look
Great, then after I finished the rest of the shell off and
Put on my nitro block the red faded and u could see it
On the inside ?????
Any tips would be great
I no I'm doing somthing wrong somewhere
Cheers si
Maybe allow the chrome longer to dry out before backing it with black, use more black too and then I'd suggest leaving that longer to dry before you put the nitro block on...

Personally I'd have made that line black or a metallic black, something really dark against the orange, that's a very personal thing though and it isn't my shell so you can ignore that bit.

Another thing, when you finished the shell did you back ALL of it with something waterbased to seal it all up before you use the nitro block ? Maybe the end you had built up on the candy red / chrome / black was still above some of the other paint and the aerosol found it and you had a slight reaction ??? Generally I will finish and seal everything in with a silver or white but I then also cover it with a black as it makes sure the body isn't see through ( and because I'm so pedantic I think it looks better in photo's... ) then I back that with an Aerosol clear.
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Last edited by eyeayen; 08-05-2012 at 01:44 PM. Reason: Added quote in as it's gone onto another page
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  #22  
Old 08-05-2012
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Yeah Ian's nailed it above for you mate

Another thing I've found is with using the candies over chrome gives a nice anodised effect, just worth noting that whatever you use to back it over with will have a dramatic effect with candies & chrome being transparent.

As for Backing with nitroblock & enamels, leave the wb paints to cure off overnight & mist the nitroblock or enamel on in light coats & build it up
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  #23  
Old 08-05-2012
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Cheers chaps ,
Just a qwick run down on what I did
Candy
Chrome
15-20 min drying after a blow dry from the wife's
New hair dryer
Then wb black
Orange backed with silver pearl and white
blue/white all over
Black all over final blow dry ( after each colour )
2hr air dry Getting excited cos I want fit it lol
Then 2 lite coats of nitro block leaving 20 mins in between
Coats

Sorry about the list I'm still learning

I'm guessing I'm not leaving it long enough
Before the nitro block as mike said ??
I think I've built the wb up like u said Ian !!
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  #24  
Old 09-05-2012
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Just reading through the process mate, no problems at all there

When it comes to the candies & chrome they evaporate quicker than the WB but with the chrome I usually put a couple of light coats on & find that's enough...

With doing the enamel & the nitroblock, patience is the key. Best to leave the WB gear to cure off, laying down a number of coats there will still be moisture inbetween them, even though the coats may look dry to the naked eye.
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  #25  
Old 09-05-2012
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Exactly what Mike has said, especially with the weather as it is at the moment and it being so wet, that won't help the paints to dry any quicker.

Heat it to death with the heat gun and put on very very light coats with lots of heat in between, also when you begin to paint heat the shell / previous paint so it's warm, this ensures the next coat will on better and also dry quicker.

When you paint up against a mask it often creates a lip of paint, so with that lip sometime it sort of sticks up, if it isn't covered fully and you then put another different type of paint over the top you'll get a reaction.

So far I can see you've used Jon's paint, then waterbased and then back it with an Aerosol, by nature aerosols contain a high solvent content in their paint, this is how they come out of the nozzle and also this is how they air dry so well, but for us it's a major problem, if it penetrates any of that water based it's going to attack the other solvent based paint, this is where the reaction can happen. OR if you've put it on even slightly too wet and too quick the solvent and the water based will react against each other casing the paint to "pickle".

Those are the only things I can think of. Without standing over you and watching you do every single step I can't say what has cased it, it could be any number of things, and as I started with drying times in wet or colder conditions vary hugely and will play a key part in all of this weather you are using solvent or waterbased paints.

I'd say give your wife her hair dryer back and go and invest in a decent heat gun. I've got a power devil 2000 and it gets bloody hot, so look for something similar to that, hair dryers don't quite do the same job.
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  #26  
Old 09-05-2012
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Sealing a shell 2hrs after painting it is nowhere near enough time in my opinion. After I have painted a shell it sits on a low heater for several hours or even overnight in winter time. It will then sit another day on the side before getting sealed. In hot summer, the heater isn't quite as necessary but the shells still sit for a couple days minimum. Especially when solvent paints are involved as they do dry quickly but then continue to air off solvents for sometime after this.
Nitroblock and enamel clears are quite hardcore and so a good coverage of waterbased paint is recommend before applying those types of things.
Have a practice on a scrap of lexan before applying it to a project.
You will get the hang of things soon buddy.
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  #27  
Old 19-05-2012
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Thanx for ure advise guys , I'm giving my impatient ass a good kicking
Lol , I'm going to start and seal at least 24hr later
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  #28  
Old 15-06-2012
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Another 1 all lm , I'm happy how it came out , feedback welcome





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  #29  
Old 15-06-2012
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looks good buddy

all i would say, is a matching black pinstripe on the front green section would have been good.
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  #30  
Old 16-06-2012
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Quality job that - very tidy and well executed
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  #31  
Old 16-06-2012
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Cheers guys
I agree John I kicked myself after
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  #32  
Old 17-06-2012
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Working progress , had to stop due to a bloody headache doing this1


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  #33  
Old 17-06-2012
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Stop drinking that stuff then

Looking good so far dude
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  #34  
Old 17-06-2012
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im thinking candy red and some kind of lines under it? could use some ideas ????????
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  #35  
Old 17-06-2012
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Looking very good so far dude but you're gonna get a lot more headaches if you try to replicate the rest of the car, it would be easier doing it the right way around, more of a nightmare like this.
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  #36  
Old 17-06-2012
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im with you their Ian , im going to try some ideas on lexan 1st
bit off a bit to much i think lol
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  #37  
Old 18-06-2012
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Best way mate, chuck yourself in at the deep end and see how you do, it will only make you better, no point in only doing stuff you know or you'll never improve. I still get jobs to day where I look at them and think how the hell am I going to achieve that and then after a bit of logical thinking it comes together and if in doubt, as you say, you can do some tests on scrap lexan. Good luck fella
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  #38  
Old 30-07-2012
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I've been busy and not painting for a while but here's a bit more on the rock crawler

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  #39  
Old 01-08-2012
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Sweet, that's coming on well !
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  #40  
Old 06-08-2012
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