Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

[A.J. Gee]

Originally Posted by A.J. Gee

Do the shock limiters/spacers come with the Tamiya dampers(54028) I dont recall putting them in mine when i built them.

Please disregard this silly question. I just answered it on my own. They are the black spacers that require 2 on each damper. How is everyone reducing the clearance/ride height especially for the rear?

[falcon pwner]

My weekend bash about with my bro ended early last Sunday when I lost drive to the front wheels. Here's a pic of what we found under the front diff cover. The three bolts that hold the one-way pully to the one-way hub managed to fully back themselves out which released the pully to rotate free of the hub. Fortunately, the screws settled down without damaging any of the moving parts. To remedy, I reassembled using a drop of CA glue to secure the three lugs - then back on the road!

[tymill]

Good thing the screws didn't foul the sprockets! Got out lucky this time...
All good!

[DCM]

no threadlock?

[jimmy]

haha, that exact thing happened to me also and the screws ended up in the same place. I think I built it and took photos - forgetting totally to threadlock it. No damage tho, so all is good!

[A.J. Gee]

I once again have another problem. I am not sure if it is with the diff or slipper clutch. I just received a new diff pulley and rebuilt the diff with new silicone diff balls. Upon acceleration there is a high pitch noise coming from the drivetrain. It does not make the noise when the wheels are off the ground. I hope this issue has nothing to do with my newly built diff. i am hoping that it may be my slipper pads that need replacement. Do any of you guys have any thoughts or advice on my issue? i am getting very frusterated with some of the problems i have been having as of late regarding the diff. Somebody please help.

[jimmy]

I never change slipper pads, well, ok maybe once a year if they look really bad and covered in dirt - and even then, only maybe .

The best way to test the drivetrain is to get the spur with the rear wheels locked down on your lap (elbows on top if needed) - obviously on the Durga this isn't as easy since you have to remove the top cover to do it, but it's the best way. spin the spur round with your thumb and see what's slipping that way as it'll do a lot less damage than grabbing the throttle. if the layshaft is moving with the spur then the diff is slipping - if it isn't then it's the slipper. Slipper noise is nothing to worry about, but you never want to hear the diff scream, ever.

[A.J. Gee]

tHANKS FOR YOUR HELP AS ALWAYS jIMBO, BUT I DISCOVERED WHAT MY PROBLEM IS. IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH MY DIFF OR SLIPPER CLUTCH, BUT RATHER WITH MY ESC/MOTOR COMBO. I AM RUNNING THE NEW ORION VORTEX 5.5 RACE WITH A MAMBA ESC. BAD IDEA. THE PROBLEM IS TERRIBLE COGGING AND STUTTERING DURING START UP. FOR SOME REASON I THOUGHT THE TERRIBLE NOISE WAS COMING FROM THE DIFF. WELL LOOKS LIKE I WAS WRONG. GLAD I DISCOVERED THE PROBLEM BUT NOT HAPPY THAT I AM STUCK WITH A NEW MOTOR THAT I HAVE NO USE FOR NOW. I AM NOT ABOUT TO GO PURCHASE A NEW ESC FOR THIS MOTOR AS I DONT REALLY CARE MUCH ABOUT THE QUALITY OF THE MOTOR. I TOOK IT APART AND INSPECTED STUFF. IT JUST SEEMS CHEAPLY MADE. I AM QUITE DISAPOINTED AT THE MOMENT. JUST AS I GET THE PARTS TODAY FOR MY DIFF I NOW COME ACROSS THIS NEW PROBLEM. WHAT A BITCH I TELL YOU. NO FUN FOR ME UNTIL I COME UP WITH A PLAN TO RESOLVE MY SITUATION.

[DCM]

the Vortex is an awesome motor dude, I run one in the DB-01.... but they are all mas manufactured, so none will be 'pretty' inside.

[A.J. Gee]

I'm just hoping i can get rid of it for a similar price that i paid for it. Like i said the thing is brand new. I would put it on here in the classified section but it seems that a large majority of the members are from outside the states. Oh well, looks like it will be going on RCU any day now.

[josh_smaxx]

The orion motors are the best motors available, when mine broke rich lowes said it was the first he had ever seen fail and i had been running it very hard for over 9 months. Its seriously worth keeping till you can get a new ESC (losi one maybe) because its a race legal motor if you ever wanted to race in big events.

[Robbiejuk]

I will back Josh up on this. I have run a vorex 6.5 since they were released sometimes 3 times a week, in 2wd 4wd and my touring car and it has never missed a beat, been completely reliable and never let me down.

Antnee who regularily frequents this thread used to run a vortex with a mamba and it did exactly the same thing, cogged terribly made an awful noise and it finally died a while back for no reason I could see. Personally I think it was the speedo that caused it to die, I am not a big fan of the Mamba Speedos at all, they seem over complicated and only seem to work well with their own motors. I would suggest trading that in over the motor in my personal opinion.

[DCM]

it is cause the mamba is designed to be specifically used with a sensorless motor, and better still, the Castle Creations motors.

[A.J. Gee]

I know its probably a good motor performance wise, but like i said running it with the mamba is not good news at all. The noise it was making while installed and put on the ground was real loud. I thought i busted something in my drivetrain. Got me a lil nervous until i realized it was just the motor. Maybe i will keep it until i get a proper ESC for it. I just can't spend anymore money at the moment as i have already spent enough as of late. The funny thing is that Orion claims these motors will work with both sensored and sensorless speedos. I called them today and they said to call back on tuesday so i can talk to the guy that is in charge.

[psuar]

A.J. Gee

I had the same problem with a Mamba max and Vortex. But there is no solution, you have to purchase a new Castkle motor or a new speed control with sensor.
I recommnd you to get the Mamba 6900 motor and keep your Mamba max speed control. Castle creations controls can be programed via USB and there is nothing compared to that in the market.

cheers!

[josh_smaxx]

Same happened to me with the orion and mamba, its luck of the draw who's works and who's doesnt. Keep the motor, put it somewhere till you get the funds for a new speedo, it'll be worth it.

Psuar, actually the new Losi Xceleron S system comes close, that can also be programmed via USB and also comes with a little programming card so you can do it trackside, similar to one of the speed passion ESC's.

[millzy]

Originally Posted by josh_smaxx

Same happened to me with the orion and mamba, its luck of the draw who's works and who's doesnt. Keep the motor, put it somewhere till you get the funds for a new speedo, it'll be worth it.

Psuar, actually the new Losi Xceleron S system comes close, that can also be programmed via USB and also comes with a little programming card so you can do it trackside, similar to one of the speed passion ESC's.

The orion motor dose work well in the Durga my only issue with the motor is the timing screws will not tighen down with out pulling the endbell anti clockwise- if you get a Tekin speedo you can change the timming via a lap top.

my only issue with the car is the wheels and the wheelbase
bit shocked to see you can only have short or long wheelbase settings and the shim is only 0.06 and also the Tamiya front wheels are a little random some have deeper hexs and some have a lot of burs in the hex its self

apart from that for a cheap car it works very well and handles national tracks better than some pricey cards ive had

[stefke]

Now the Lipo era has come, I wanted to try my Lipo'ed TRF501X against a Lipo'ed DB01. (started a thread about this here : http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11867).

So I went along and order a Durga with the following Hopups :

DB01 Slipper set
DB01 Front one way set
Eccentric belt tensioner - TRF501X
Suspension Ball 8pcs - Fluorine Coated
DB01 Carbon Reinforced - A-parts (Diff Cover)
DB01 Carbon Reinforced - D-parts (Caster Block)
DB01 Carbon Reinforced - L-parts (Steering Arm)
DB01 Carbon Reinforced - M-parts (Damper Stay)
DB01 Carbon Fiber Reinforce - Chassis
DB01 motor heat sink
DB01 Champ Ti screw set

I will also use spare TRF shocks, steel outdrives and ceramic diff balls i already had for my TRF501X

I choose not to order the new alu suspension mounts since carbon items are included in de carbon reinforced parts.

My question : have I missed something to make my future DB01 race-ready ?

[sosidge]

UJs would be nice. And I would go for a steel screw set rather than Ti.

[stefke]

Fortgot to mention : I'll also be using spare UJ from the 501.