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  #21  
Old 24-09-2008
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I ran a Novak 5.5R on 23/83, and it seemed bang on - didn't get overly hot.

Id perhaps sugest 24 or 25 with the 83.
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  #22  
Old 24-09-2008
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[quote=Chrislong;162750]I ran a Novak 5.5R on 23/83, and it seemed bang on - didn't get overly hot.
quote]

Thats my gearing lol, thief!
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  #23  
Old 30-09-2008
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Mossy, could you post up your final setup from worksop round 1 please
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  #24  
Old 30-09-2008
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What wings do you use on the cat sx..................
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  #25  
Old 30-09-2008
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A lot of driver just ran the kit wings, but some were running the wider wings from othe manufacturers (asso', edit, HB, etc.).
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  #26  
Old 01-10-2008
Mossy Mossy is offline
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Ive posted my final setup in the Setup thread from the weekend. As for wings, i ran an associated high downforce one with only a small amount removed from the back.
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  #27  
Old 01-10-2008
PaulUpton PaulUpton is offline
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Im looking at putting Ti screws and ball joints on my SX, anyone who has done this do you know how many of each size of screw you need?

Just checking before i sit down and count them myself

Paul
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  #28  
Old 05-10-2008
PaulUpton PaulUpton is offline
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Could someone PM with where to get the orings which some guys have changed too in there shocks

Many Thanks

Paul
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  #29  
Old 06-10-2008
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http://www.nortechracing.co.uk/ or contact northy on here. whities are the way to go
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  #30  
Old 06-10-2008
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Thanks Stegger, found link last night, tried ordering them but came up with an error, have sent email/pm so hopefully get it sorted!

Thanks

Paul
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  #31  
Old 08-10-2008
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I'm in the process of building my CAT SX. It's a nice return to Schumacher since my very first 4wd was a CAT2000EC.

Since i'll be giving the car its first runs on the Kampenhout track, I'm looking for an astro setup to start with on work from there.
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  #32  
Old 13-10-2008
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I will be running on an Indoor high traction dirt track in the US. The track is typically pretty technical with maybe on or 2 big jumps and lots of smaller jumps

What would be a good starting point?
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  #33  
Old 16-11-2008
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What difference does it make on the car switching diff position high/low in their housings

Thanks mates
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  #34  
Old 16-11-2008
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High 'should' give more grip at that end, but I think it will be marginal

G
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  #35  
Old 11-12-2008
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I have a theory with setting up this car, and being so tuneable it is possible - not possible with ANY other chassis I am aware of.

My theory is also basic because it focus's on single area's of the car to deal with specific characteristics on the track without mixing up one area with another. Therefore the car can be tuned to be perfect as long as you can identify what the car is doing and what you want from it.


1st. To setup the car to go over the bumps, jumps and landings, dial in the shocks to suit. Oil, piston and spring. (wing size for in air)

2nd. To setup the amount of turn in the car has, change the ackerman link to suit. Longer = more initial steering. Don't make big changes at a time. Start with bellcranks parallel. Kit setting ok 8mm leaves the bellcranks pointing in (too short).

3rd. To setup the amount of side bite through & exiting the corner, change the geometry - rear toe in, camber, camber link height & length.

4th. To setup the amount of straight line traction, change Diff height, rear pin height and antisquat. (generally want maximum traction)

5th. To setup the amount of corner exit traction, choose diff, diff + roller, or one way. (generally one way everywhere for maximum traction)

I have setup my car by focusing on 1 then 2, then 3 & 4 together, and finally 5. The result is awesome. Some of the decisions made in early steps will effect the result of later steps, but by focusing sections of the setup on particular characteristics then the result is uncompromised!!

Granted I have skipped a few areas such as wheelbase, camber link length, front castor and width, but like anything - to follow the above you will need an understanding of what does what in terms of setup (in which case, if unsure, copy my setup in the setups section then tell me (PM) how it feels and what you want it to do differently and i'll make some recommendations)

I love setting up this car as it is so easy to understand, and it responds as it should to every change.

Chris
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  #36  
Old 11-12-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oliv996 View Post
What difference does it make on the car switching diff position high/low in their housings

Thanks mates
When the diff is spinning it naturally wants to straighten the driveshafts to be level. So having a higher diff means the driveshafts will be straighter - or perhaps pointing down, which will generate more traction mechanically than the driveshafts smiling for the same overall ride height.

Also, having more plunge on a high speed rotating diff adds pack (independent to shocks), so having less plunge in a high diff free's up the corners to allow the shocks to work.... im not sure on the reason for this one, but it seems to be true when I have used it as a setup change.

Therefore, I use high diff on the rear of my SX, low diff on the front.
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  #37  
Old 12-12-2008
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Thanks Chris for your analysis
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  #38  
Old 22-12-2008
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I ran my car in anger for the first tiem at the weekend... and was impressed. couple fo questions I would like to ask if any one has hints and tips...
Front Suspension
Oil: 
 35wt
Diaphragm: Cut out
Piston: Three hole
Spring: Schumacher Red (new)
Track Washers: 2mm front/2mm rear
Anti-Roll Bar: None
Shock Position - Tower: Middle
Shock Position - Wishbone: Middle
Front Rake: 10-degrees
Front Link Bracket: 38.5mm (2mm washers)
Washers on Hub: 2.5mm (hub carrier cut flush)
Ride Height: d/shaft level

Rear Suspension
Oil: 25wt
Diaphragm: Cut out
Piston: Three hole
Spring: Schumacher Yellow
Wheelbase: Short
Toe In: (3.5mm rear/1.5mm front)
Anti Squat Washers: 1.3 degrees (2mm rear, 1mm front)
Rear Link Bracket: 37.5mm (5mm washers under ball)
Shock Position - Tower: Middle
Shock Position - Wishbone: Inside
Hub Camber Link: Middle
Anti-Roll Bar: None
Ride Height: w/bone level

Transmission
Front Diff Height: Low
Rear Diff Height: Low
Layshaft Pulley: One-way
Front Drive: Diff
Gearing: 21/83/Ni-Mh/5.5 with 12.5mm sintered rotor.
Internal Ratio: Kit pulleys

I found the car didn't push enough on power, e.g. going on to the straight the car.. I was thinking of trying more toe in on the rear, also either getting rid of some of the washer under the 'ball' or removing some from the front camber link bracket...

Thanks
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  #39  
Old 22-12-2008
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I am not sure I understand. Do you want the car to understeer more on power? Or are you saying that it oversteered.
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  #40  
Old 22-12-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrislong View Post
I am not sure I understand. Do you want the car to understeer more on power? Or are you saying that it oversteered.
Sorry Chris, it oversteered on power. So exciting the final corner going on to the straight the car would just hang on too much? So I want to make it understeer more on power...

Paul
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