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  #2821  
Old 30-03-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alcyon View Post
you mean 8x14? really cant get those anymore ?
i built my lazer diffs with WBD-5 last night and i find that the 8x14 bearings have to much gap between the aluminium spacer. this will not only cause the diff to move side to side a lot, but will also allow dirt to get into the rear gearbox. How do i get the correct shims to fix this problem? this is avery serious problem. if i cant fix this i can forget about my lazer or i have to back to WBD-1.
putting in some 1/8 balls instead of the 3mm will make it a bit wider.

mvhisobarik
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  #2822  
Old 30-03-2012
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Originally Posted by oosh123 View Post
I just ordered the square aluminum pulleys and diff pulleys (see if I can make the ball diffs more durable).

They should come in the next week or so. After that, the fitting will begin.

Wish me luck.
I´ll bet you will make it work..............
mvh Isobarik
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  #2823  
Old 30-03-2012
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Originally Posted by karlmark1 View Post
Seen lots of posts about the pulleys and remembered i got this layshaft and solid pulleys with a lazer zx i got a few yrs back. Does anyone know which model it came with??
This pulley assembly came with the Lazer Zx Sport.
Don't use it with a powerful motor or you will strip the plastic pulley lock on the shaft.

Bye
Ema
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  #2824  
Old 30-03-2012
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Second instalment of my gearbox will be with me either on Saturday (if the post works correctly) otherwise early next week. Once all built up I will need to redesign the pivot blocks but should have a carbon fibre prototype within a week or two as well. Cant wait.
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  #2825  
Old 30-03-2012
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Originally Posted by oosh123 View Post
I remember when I used 3mm balls to build the ball diff that the pulley wiggles a bit. I ended up using 1/8" balls and it was much more rigid.

To solve the shimming issue, you will need to get some 8 x 14 shims. Luckily I got some at my desposal I was able to shim it properly. I rebuilded the rear gear box a few time to get it to be shimmed correctly. It's all trial and error for me.
where di you get the shims? could you sell a set to me? i just spent 20 dollars on complete set of ceramic balls from my lazer, and they are 3mm. so i am not going to buy new 1/8" balls, that by the way will fit on my kawada TC.
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  #2826  
Old 30-03-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ema View Post
This pulley assembly came with the Lazer Zx Sport.
Don't use it with a powerful motor or you will strip the plastic pulley lock on the shaft.

Bye
Ema
Looks like it but it isnt ..........touring car....hm hm hm ...

mvh Isobarik
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  #2827  
Old 30-03-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
Second instalment of my gearbox will be with me either on Saturday (if the post works correctly) otherwise early next week. Once all built up I will need to redesign the pivot blocks but should have a carbon fibre prototype within a week or two as well. Cant wait.
Sounds Great! can't wait to see it.

Make the final product out of those blue carbon fibres!!

I think I am obsessed with blue on the lazer now.
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  #2828  
Old 30-03-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alcyon View Post
where di you get the shims? could you sell a set to me? i just spent 20 dollars on complete set of ceramic balls from my lazer, and they are 3mm. so i am not going to buy new 1/8" balls, that by the way will fit on my kawada TC.
I only got one or two left. You may need more.

I have to double check if they are 8x14 shims, I think I used KYO96645. which are 11 x 14 shims.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...mm-Shim-Set-10
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  #2829  
Old 30-03-2012
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RB5 slipper plate's diameter is too big for the b4 slipper pads.

I am going to use the B4 V2 vented slipper pad for this build. Also got my self a high torgue slipper pad for b4.
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  #2830  
Old 30-03-2012
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This is my currently design for the layshaft.

It's a bit messy. Please comment your opinions.

I am thinking if I should all a thrust bearing between the spacer & thrust plate.

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  #2831  
Old 30-03-2012
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Looking ACe oosh .....

cant wait to see it ...

How are things going with the front carbon gearbox that looked soo wounderfull.

mvh Isobarik
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  #2832  
Old 31-03-2012
alcyon alcyon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oosh123 View Post
This is my currently design for the layshaft.

It's a bit messy. Please comment your opinions.

I am thinking if I should all a thrust bearing between the spacer & thrust plate.

Looks good, but dont forget to measure all the distances to make sure it will fit in. The space for the pulleys is actually very tight.
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  #2833  
Old 31-03-2012
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Well here it is, only one screw hole in roughly 1mm out of place but hey, its not bad for a second attempt. As you can see the two areas where the gearbox will bolt to the chassis, one on top of the pivot block which I still have to design and the rear tower mount where its almost perfect.

This is going to be a first as I don't recall seeing a car with a total cf gearbox. Comments welcome.
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  #2834  
Old 01-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
Well here it is, only one screw hole in roughly 1mm out of place but hey, its not bad for a second attempt. As you can see the two areas where the gearbox will bolt to the chassis, one on top of the pivot block which I still have to design and the rear tower mount where its almost perfect.

This is going to be a first as I don't recall seeing a car with a total cf gearbox. Comments welcome.
Awesome! When can I get one??

For boltings to the chassis, on your last picture, if you use a rectangle aluminum bar instead of a aluminum round bar and have that right on top of the pivot block, then you don't have to tap into your CF plates.

This means, you need to plug the 4 other holes on the bottom to keep dirts away.
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  #2835  
Old 01-04-2012
alcyon alcyon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
Well here it is, only one screw hole in roughly 1mm out of place but hey, its not bad for a second attempt. As you can see the two areas where the gearbox will bolt to the chassis, one on top of the pivot block which I still have to design and the rear tower mount where its almost perfect.

This is going to be a first as I don't recall seeing a car with a total cf gearbox. Comments welcome.
its interesting, with an open design like this, the tranny will be more smoother and effiecient but i see you did not use the front 2 holes to mount the gearbox. it looks like you are using the rear plastic piece to mount to the last 2 holes on the chassis, then you use the motor plate to hold the fron end on the right side, and on the left you use the "torque" arm plate to secure to the top deck mount, am i right?
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  #2836  
Old 01-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oosh123 View Post
Awesome! When can I get one??

For boltings to the chassis, on your last picture, if you use a rectangle aluminum bar instead of a aluminum round bar and have that right on top of the pivot block, then you don't have to tap into your CF plates.

This means, you need to plug the 4 other holes on the bottom to keep dirts away.
That was a good idea.

mvh Isobarik

Btw welsh looks ace otherwise....
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  #2837  
Old 01-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alcyon View Post
its interesting, with an open design like this, the tranny will be more smoother and effiecient but i see you did not use the front 2 holes to mount the gearbox. it looks like you are using the rear plastic piece to mount to the last 2 holes on the chassis, then you use the motor plate to hold the fron end on the right side, and on the left you use the "torque" arm plate to secure to the top deck mount, am i right?
As i mentioned i havent designed the pivot block holder yet but there is a hole directly above that to attach when ive designed and made it. Three holes on each site to attach to the chassis. Also the two holes either side at the very back will be taken off the design as i cant use them.

Also you need to file the original rear mounts screw hole by the thickness of the cf plate on either side and also on the two back holes use a knife to cut the long ecess plastic and a file to file the section and arpund so it slots in perfectly.
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  #2838  
Old 01-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oosh123 View Post
Awesome! When can I get one??

For boltings to the chassis, on your last picture, if you use a rectangle aluminum bar instead of a aluminum round bar and have that right on top of the pivot block, then you don't have to tap into your CF plates.

This means, you need to plug the 4 other holes on the bottom to keep dirts away.
The inner pivot block is having an extension and will be raised so you bolt into the holes above. The two holes at the back of the gearbox either side will be filled in as they were there as per the original gearbox design.
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  #2839  
Old 01-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
The inner pivot block is having an extension and will be raised so you bolt into the holes above. The two holes at the back of the gearbox either side will be filled in as they were there as per the original gearbox design.
I meant wouldn't it be easier to just drill a M3 clearance holes where the existing threads are on the inner pivot block and have some aluminum coming out of the gear box to meet the pivot block than to redesign the it?
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  #2840  
Old 01-04-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oosh123 View Post
I meant wouldn't it be easier to just drill a M3 clearance holes where the existing threads are on the inner pivot block and have some aluminum coming out of the gear box to meet the pivot block than to redesign the it?
Problem is the belt doesnt give room to play with and you have to take the movement of the belt as well. I was thinking of adding a block ontop of the pivot block, but now im contimplating filing two flat spots on a pole and drilling m3 holes through and attach that way.

Then again looking at it we still have to do a redesign to make it fit and attach to the original chassis gearbox front holes and as you say go upwards to attach to those two holes directly above, then i can move the pole to the outer hole originally put there for the pivot block attachment.
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