What improvements to the 210

[andys]

Originally Posted by mikeyscott

Many thanks, going to re- check my diff build tonight re which side I put the C clip

Don't take the clip out unless you have a new one to replace it with !

You will know if the clip isn't doing it's job as your diff will feel very tight. I found mine was slipping after building the car and it's 1st run on the hall carpet, I had to tighten it to stop the slipping and then the diff felt far too tight - could still slip though..

After a quick run, I lost all drive as the clip failed completely. The diff still feels tight though when it fails, just the drive gear spins freely when the clip goes.

Now I have the Schumacher clip in (looks like a very different kind of metal) it's fine.

I really do think that people who put the clip in the wrong way round will have a problem, if you were lucky and it feels / runs ok, chances are you put it in the right way round !

[tyreman]

The only issue i found with mine was the 1.3mm kit pistons were oversized, and sticking in the shock body, once i reduced the diameter it was really good.

[gainsy]

Thanks Adam & Chris for all that info

[joho]

Hi Adam, I am very confuse here... For the circlip, the flat side should face the thrust bearing or the diff ring side? Thanks for helping out!


QUOTE=Adam Skelding;568102]I'll try and clear a couple of issues up on here:

1. Shocks shafts are correct in the kit. Just make sure you have fitted the rubber bumpstop onto the shock shaft before you fit the rod end.. Also once the spring perch is on there the piston doesn't break the top of the body.

We've had no issues throughout testing with shocks sticking at full compression.

As for the option part page, the 52mm shaft shouldn't be listed there. I'll get it removed today. It's also in the manual...

2. Diff - Circlip. It's best to install the circlip with some good Circlip pliers. It can be rendered useless if you try and force it in... A few tips here to help ensure your diff is built correctly.
a. There are two sides to the clip a flat side and a rounded side. When you install the circlip keep the 'flat' side facing you this way when under pressure from the thrust race the contact faces between the clip and the diff ring are the flat ones.

b. One the circlip is installed. Try to open it out a little either with the circlip pliers you just installed it with. Or insert a large flat blade screw driver between the open ends of the circlip and give the screwdriver a twist, this will open the circlip back out a little removing any 'shrinkage' of the clip on installation.

c. Make sure you put in the diff screw and T-nut in the correct sides. It builds differently to other diffs out there. Don't just build it 'the way you have been building ball diffs for 20 odd years'.

3. Breakages.
Shock Towers
These are always hard ones to justify... Sometimes when you break something you only see the end result of part that has already been weakened. We broke towers in testing and in racing, but TBH they were justified. We have towers from the production batch and the mix is good.

Steering.
Honestly, we never saw a broken one of these during testing, it must have been a really hefty hit.. We even did some testing at Coventry so we know what to expect from the track.[/QUOTE]

[Northy]

Originally Posted by joho

Hi Adam, I am very confuse here... For the circlip, the flat side should face the thrust bearing or the diff ring side? Thanks for helping out!

The flat side (with the square edge) should face the diff ring/diff balls.

G

[Chris Doughty]

Originally Posted by joho

Hi Adam, I am very confuse here... For the circlip, the flat side should face the thrust bearing or the diff ring side? Thanks for helping out!

The flat or sharp side of the clip should face away from the thrust race and towards the diff gear

[joho]

Thanks a lot, Northy and Chris! I had the pleasure and pressure to make sure I explain correctly in my building report for my fellow Chinese TD fans! Can't wait for the build.

[mikeyscott]

Originally Posted by Chris Doughty

The flat or sharp side of the clip should face away from the thrust race and towards the diff gear

Flat or sharp indicating it doesn't matter

[jkclifford]

flat or sharp, being the opposite of the rouded edge, its where they are punched out when manufactured. You position the square edge of the clip to the shoulder which is holding it in.

[jkclifford]

Actually run it today.


All the little niggles forgotten.

Absolutly amazing.

[drop4205]

make sure you note the size of the thrush washer outside diameter. One is larger than the other and might be the reason some are having trouble. The smaller one goes in first then the caged thrust then the larger thrust washer then snap ring.

[TonyV2382]

Originally Posted by sunbeam

I'm walking away form a very reliable (and new) Cougar SV pro 2011 for a DEX210. I must say, I'm a little apprehensive with it being a new car and from the first batch.

But what I have seen of the car, and what I've read about the company, I think (hope) any problems with it will soon be fixed and it will be a fantastic racer.

The Cougar is a good car, but I find the company very arrogant in it's approach to problems. I'm sure Durango are not of the same mind, please tell me I'm right.

I have seen the plastic steering arm snap after a hard bump and others here suggest the rear shock shafts, shock towers, locking steering and diff clip may give problems. But that's fine, if we know about it, we can keep an eye on it.

Does anybody know how quickly Durango normally jump on problems, do they send out replacment parts found to be fuilty?

Uhh...Schumacher arrogant?...I think not homie. ANY problem I have had was solved with not more than 1 email. And to be honest since I bought the schueys Ive had maybe 2 problems all year. Both problems solved with new parts mailed within days and Im in the US.

Owned the dex...never heard back from rango ever regarding any problem. Luckily I had a sponsored rango guy with me when I needed something but if it wasnt for him I wouldve junked it. In the end after going through all the issues it worked well....but I probably wont own another rango....just personal preference, Schumacher service has spoiled me. So with that said, Im sorry but anyone that knows schuey customer service knows they're anything but arrogant, and more eager to please than most companies. You're asking how fast Durango jumps on problems and if they send replacement parts quickly because you know well schuey does in that dept....and fast. So to answer your question simply....no. Ive owned everything under the sun, and no company is as quick as schuey. Just a fact.

good luck with your 210...hope it works as well as ur reliable cougar.

[mjk37]

Would love to see the RF Suspension holders in Aluminum like the 410 option as I have seen one of these break on a very weak touch of the wall and have read of others breaking this as well.

Not expensive to replace by any means but a PITA to fix.

[Andyp]

Originally Posted by mjk37

Would love to see the RF Suspension holders in Aluminum like the 410 option as I have seen one of these break on a very weak touch of the wall and have read of others breaking this as well.

Not expensive to replace by any means but a PITA to fix.

Mmmm, it would ok to have an alloy block but it would only put stress somewhere else, maybe a wish bone break or a hinge pin bend , you may not notice the hinge pin bend till a re build so it could cause some funny handling .

[mjk37]

Originally Posted by Andyp

Mmmm, it would ok to have an alloy block but it would only put stress somewhere else, maybe a wish bone break or a hinge pin bend , you may not notice the hinge pin bend till a re build so it could cause some funny handling .

Just easier to change an arm or hinge pin IMO and the alloy parts on the 410 are a must have.