Rc10b3 vintage racer restoration (and a b2 maybe...)

[Durango]

Originally Posted by charlesk

Going through by box of bits, found these, that I believe are B2 front hubs/axles?:

These are B4/T4 hubs.

[J'MM'N]

Only difference between a B2 and B3 chassis, is the B3 has two extra holes to accommodate a rear anti roll bar.

[Durango]

Originally Posted by J'MM'N

Only difference between a B2 and B3 chassis, is the B3 has two extra holes to accommodate a rear anti roll bar.

Show me please, I'm comparing my B3 with my B2 chassis and don't see these extra holes


PS: Oh damn yeah, you're right. I don't know why, I never noticed these

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by quentinfarquar

Following this with interest, I have just fired my B3 up again after a 15 year break and buying some new nicads. First race at the weekend and it ran really well considering. I didn't realise the vintage scene was so strong, I was thinking if I enjoyed it I'd just by a B5m, but now I'm not sure what to do.

Any good tips or mods for the guys still running B3's, I literally just refilled the shocks (one cap did leak slightly after racing it) and put in new batteries.

B4 layshaft, vts slipper and a few rude tony weights and should be really good, full size servo, preferably metal geared as this adds weight to the front. I dont enjoy driving the B5 but get a thrill when using my B2 hence why im using mine on 28th at Maritime world cup event. Ok my car was modded well before the 3 came out we found the car was much more stable when we widened the front end, but didnt like a wider rear so preferred the same rear end on the B2 as it made the car easier to drive. I also used zero degree rear hubs and mounts (used 1.5 as well)as it made the car more agressive in and out of corners. I also found the standard gold shocks from the stock car were smoother and got a more dialed car. Corally ten double and it was a really fun car to drive, now lipos cause problems as you need to find the weight that the cells used to be but still entertaining never the less.

[J'MM'N]

Sorry for poor image, but have circled hole for ARB on a B3 and is not applicable on B2's.

P.S. Just noticed your edit

[Welshy40]

Forgot to mention, i found the best way in the 90's at the highest level of keeping the front wishbones in one piece was to do the method on both b2 and b3 and use two metal wishbone plates, you will need to cut away an area of the wishbones to do this but does add a bit more strength.

[quentinfarquar]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

B4 layshaft, vts slipper and a few rude tony weights and should be really good.

Sounds good could you expand a bit on this, what do I do with Rude Tony weights.

[charlesk]

Shock rebuild time. Everything stripped to clean/check. Doing this for.all 4 sets at the same time:

The set to the top left got red 3 hole rear pistons, with no other markings on, anybody has any idea what they are?

[charlesk]

And the tools of the trade 😁 :

[charlesk]

Oh and these arrived today so can crack on now :-D

[charlesk]

The envy of usable b3 gearboxes??? B4 layshaft, new outdrives, ceramic balls and thrust, oh and new plates:

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by quentinfarquar

Sounds good could you expand a bit on this, what do I do with Rude Tony weights.

B4 layshaft is a perfect fit, the same size gear as the B2/3 so having this layshaft means you can have a decent slipper. With VTS installed it makes the car much easier to drive, it sounds like not much but whilst developing my Lazer ZXR i was three laps off the pace with a standard slipper, with a b4 slipper i was 1 and a third of a lap off the pace and with the VTS was only half a lap off the pace and looking at the times i was putting in had instances where it showed i was right on the pace. The VTS is a superior slipper compared to the standard set up and twin pad set up. Youll need to buy the rpm gear cover to use this slipper though.

Brass thin plates that are a perfect fit for the battery section, basically i use several to get the car up to the weight of scrc or nimh batts as the batteries used then were much heavier.

[quentinfarquar]

So its a straight forward mod, the thing is I raced it last week for the first time in 15 years with all the old gear just 2 new nicads, so the thing is do i play about with the B3 or just by a B5M and modern electrics...

[charlesk]

Originally Posted by quentinfarquar

So its a straight forward mod, the thing is I raced it last week for the first time in 15 years with all the old gear just 2 new nicads, so the thing is do i play about with the B3 or just by a B5M and modern electrics...

Imo, a B3 is great for vintage racing, but against modern cars on high grip surfaces it will be slower. Easier to drive but slower. So it depends on what you want out of your racing.
Another thing to consider is parts, as they aren't as readily available as for something like a B5M.
It comes down to the amount of use and your ability to keep it running as breakages and Wear will take its toll...
I race vintage in vintage class once a month ish with a vintage car, but a modern buggy week in week out.
Oh and modern electrics all the way unless it's a shelfer or used once/twice a year..

[Welshy40]

As per above, personally would choose wisely, B5 isnt easy to drive and didnt like it so would advise asking to try someones before buying. Im running mine as my sponser cant get me the new sworkz in time for the next event and mods arent expensive but does mean i wont come last.

[quentinfarquar]

maybe I should use if for a few weeks and see if Im going to stick at it. I'd like to but I guess its the family. Then take the plunge...

So if not a B5m what should be on my list, my first time racing as a kid I only raced Cougars, then when I came back in 2000 I bought this B5 from a guy for about £70 and it seemed a great car, no issues at all.

I have an 13 triple in it, running on nicads and its plenty fast enough in a straight line, but I guess the newer cars handle better.

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by quentinfarquar

maybe I should use if for a few weeks and see if Im going to stick at it. I'd like to but I guess its the family. Then take the plunge...

So if not a B5m what should be on my list, my first time racing as a kid I only raced Cougars, then when I came back in 2000 I bought this B5 from a guy for about £70 and it seemed a great car, no issues at all.

I have an 13 triple in it, running on nicads and its plenty fast enough in a straight line, but I guess the newer cars handle better.

Thing is technology has changed and brushless is the product now, bit more torque. There are loads available, Schumacher does a good car but with these guys they change the design every five minutes so i tend to avoid them due to that but will say they designed a stunning car for 2wd. Losi do a good car also but tight for electrics, sworkz have shipped their first batch so may hit our stores shortly and is a very good car design plus made tough like their 4wd. Id avoid Durango, cars crap, as youll never have just one setup and means youll never have a perfect setup and will drive you crazy. There are quite a few to choose but is really down to your taste, after all if it looks right then great start.

[charlesk]

Back on track now, a decent amount of progress the last couple of days. It's on the final straight :-)
Front clip now on, made up a decent steering link (remember from my b44 that the stock link had a tendency to let go)

Got this little monster to power it up. Should be plenty with a bit of boost.
And how it's looking atm.
Rpm front bumper too :-)

[charlesk]

Didn't have a shock stand for small bore shocks so made one up. Effective and tasty 😁

[bretts]

Nice!! You should send this to Racer Magazine for 'Tip of the Month' :-)