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#21
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Cheers Richy,ill have a look at mine later. Have you run yours yet and if so what surface was it on and how did it go?. I'm running the Dimec20 chassis aswell. It will be the first time out on astro for it Saturday.
Phill |
#22
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Yes Phill, i've run it a couple of times at my local track Maritime which is a mix of carpet, a little astro and slippery wood. The car certainly feels more planted IMO with the shocks at the rear, less like it wants to break traction whilst cornering
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Yokomo. Nemo Racing |
#23
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Ill do mine the same as yours I think,drill holes at the back rather than flip the arms then I can test them against the normal position.
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#24
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Any tips for if damage prevention that could be added when runningnthe configuration as 10 car finals make your cars rear end quite acident prone
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#25
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Quote:
I know what you mean, it is a worry having them on the rear, much safer on the front, but its a risk you take. the bottoms are mounted pretty close to the wheels so theres a bit of protection there.
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Yokomo. Nemo Racing |
#26
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Dont no y u guys worry about the shocks getting damaged, other manufacturers hav the shocks at the back with no problems, somebody would have to hit you pretty hard to damage them!
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#27
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That's what I was thinking, the Losi can only be run this way. Just wish we could use the droop screw still.
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Great Hobbies, NRC raceway. 17 years of racing RC see me race http://www.youtube.com/user/myusernameck |
#28
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Quote:
Its an option |
#29
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Ran mine with the shocks at the rear of the arms and the Dimec20 chassis yesterday at Broxtowe. Car was excellent even in the wet. Started to snow before my first race so I put BB greens on all round and I could go at speed into corners and the rear just held. I've got my first 2wd regional there next weekend and I'm going to leave it as is.
Only down side was my crap driving and i ended up breaking my gearbox casing believe it or not |
#30
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ran mine with rear shocks and arms flipped on Sunday night on a slippy/carpeted youth center hall and it was aces.
back end felt far more planted than it usually does and I was able to give full acceleration on the slippy stuff without having to correct for loss of rear traction. I'd highly recomend the switch |
#31
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Quote:
What setup were you running Brooksy, ditto AfroP |
#32
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Front Springs - dark red Pistons - Kit Oil - 30wt losi Schuey yellow min spikes with medium foams shocks mounted on outer hole on arms and mid hole on tower Rear Spring - Light green Pistons - kit Oil - 27.5wt losi Schuey yellow mini spikes with medium foams Shocks mounted on mid hole top and bottom rear camber link has both spacers and mounted on 2nd hole from the outside on the hubs No extra weight in the car at all, Dimec chassis and running ball diff |
#33
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Ill post mine up later if I get chance. Ran it again at Broxtowe regional this weekend gone with same setup. First couple of races I had trouble with front end digging in too much,new old style staggers on front and part worn mini spikes on rear,but even so the back end didn't swing out. For the third race I put new mini spikes on the back and the car was mint. Put my best time in.
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#34
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Thanks AfroP
Stock pistons? 6x 1.2 Front and 6x 1.3 rear ?? or have you plugged or drilled something. Thats pretty similar to the setup I have but had trouble with the back end wanting to rotate.. But I had well worn spikes, so I have mounted up a new pair and will test again tomorrow I had 4x1.3 and those oils |
#35
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Setup for mine at a dry Broxtowe this weekend gone:-
Front Kit Springs Pistons - 4x1.2mm Oil - Losi 35wt Tyres - Shuey yellow staggers Shocks - Outer hole on top and outer hole on bottom Rear Kit springs Pistons - 6x1.2mm Oil - Losi 30wt Tyres - Shuey yellow mini spikes Shocks - Center top and center bottom Phill |
#36
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Hey guys. There seems to be a lot of information in this thread and some of it contradicting to others. Could someone just answer these questions for me?
1) Where do I need to drill holes, is it better with the arms flipped or drilled? 2) Does this work for both DIMEC and standard chassis', and does it work best on a grippy or low traction surface? 3) What are the exact steps In need to follow to do this? Thanks Dan |
#37
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I've drilled the holes rather than flip the arms. All I did was measure from center of hinge pin hole to center of middle hole and drill where appropriate on the back.
I would think it would have the same effect on both chassis'.(not 100% certain though) Not tried it on low grip yet,just high grip astro. Phill. |
#38
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I tried it on the +8 chassis, I flipped the arms at first then thought that I might want to try it back to back with the normal postítion, which flipping the arms with the shims and piviot balls out at the track isn't as easy as just drilling and then just swapping the shocks over.
I had troubles with the buggy wanting to swap ends all the time, but discovered that my rear shocks where way off and I put on some new rear tires. That helped a lot and like a previous poster said I can get on power earlier out of corners. If the weather holds up for sunday Ill give the stock chassis with rear shocks a go |
#39
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And the results were?
__________________
----Cougar 2 team----Cougar 2 works----Cougar 2000---- ----Schumacher Bosscat---- ----Traxxas TRX1----Losi XXX CR----Losi XXX BK2---- ----AE B4 ft----Xfactory X6^----DEX210 V1---- ----TLR22 3.0----TLR22 4.0----TLR22t 4.0----TLR22 5.0AC---- ----AE B6.4----
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#40
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Works well but I find the weight of the stock chassis makes it feel a bit lazy as I have to have heavier shocks
I like the plastic +8 for weight then I can go lighter shocks. It feels a little more nimble. |
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