Blinky racing battery help

[adey]

Hi all. Been racing for many years with buggies and have tons of experience but I am struggling to understand an issue with blinky racing. We are thinking of running a buggy class with 13.5 blinky and some of the drivers have said with today's low profile lipos they would dump in the race. The batteries are ok with a 7.5 with boost but a 13.5 blinky would take up too much power and the battery would dump. Can anybody explain too me how a 7.5 with boost used less power than a 13.5 blinky. Many thanks.

[mark christopher]

Originally Posted by adey

Hi all. Been racing for many years with buggies and have tons of experience but I am struggling to understand an issue with blinky racing. We are thinking of running a buggy class with 13.5 blinky and some of the drivers have said with today's low profile lipos they would dump in the race. The batteries are ok with a 7.5 with boost but a 13.5 blinky would take up too much power and the battery would dump. Can anybody explain too me how a 7.5 with boost used less power than a 13.5 blinky. Many thanks.

13.5 would use less power by far, afraid they are talking out there butts, you would not dump.

[Danosborne6661]

It wouldn't.

[adey]

Even Trish from Schumacher said on his you tube video that he used a full thickness shorty lipo to win the stock class at Eos daun because of this. I just don't see how it uses more power.

[coolhands]

I think they are using the wrong terminology. I’ve read that with touring cars for example you would suffer because the voltage drops a bit (so does not ‘dump’ like the old days) and that loss of performance means you can’t win etc This is because you don’t have an excess of motor power, like in a mod class, so need every scrap of performance you can eek out of the vehicle. Hence why you might need full size Lipo to keep higher voltage.

[charlesk]

Originally Posted by coolhands

I think they are using the wrong terminology. I’ve read that with touring cars for example you would suffer because the voltage drops a bit (so does not ‘dump’ like the old days) and that loss of performance means you can’t win etc This is because you don’t have an excess of motor power, like in a mod class, so need every scrap of performance you can eek out of the vehicle. Hence why you might need full size Lipo to keep higher voltage.

That's exactly it, because you're on full throttle a lot more and even then acceleration isn't stunning you notice the drop. Also they tend to be geared high, which draws a few extra amps, exaggerating the issue of acceleration when a little down on voltage.

[adey]

A racer at our club was using a 13.5 in a cougar laydown with a 23 pinion and kit spur running a little boost. He dumped after 4 and a half mins with a low profile 3200 lipo. I don't see how as I run lipos that are 3200 with a 10.5 with boost and it's fine.