Cat L1 noisy

[russmcc77]

Anyone else find the L1 to be noisy? Mine is noticeably more noisy than the k2 was. The drive train is free without the pinion On but with it it seems quite notchy. Any ideas?

[Rozzy2005]

You are not alone. Mine is louder than my K2 for sure.

[russmcc77]

Thats good to know I'm not alone. Maybe just needs a few runs to settle in.

[chrispattinson]

Mine is silent. Make sure you apply some black grease to the metal side gears.

[chrispattinson]

Originally Posted by russmcc77

Anyone else find the L1 to be noisy? Mine is noticeably more noisy than the k2 was. The drive train is free without the pinion On but with it it seems quite notchy. Any ideas?

If the drive train is free without the pinion on, it demonstrates that the drivetrain of the car is ok.
If it is notchy with your pinion on, this is probably just the motor rotor grabbing in the magnetic field (you can feel this if you spin the motor by hand).

If the notchiness appears to be more than this usual motor grab, then your motor maybe bad in someway. Try a different motor.

[cmgreen]

Same as above, mine is silent, grease the gears.

[reelman_fishing]

no problem with our's, just as quiet as the K2 but a lot better car

[AmiSMB]

I do not think it is that noisy and not that fussed even if it is as longs as it keeps on driving as well as it does!

[On the roof]

I found mine loud first run out yesterday up at RHR it’s my first Schumacher car and belt driven car also. I’m no expert...and I’m terrible at driving, but for the life of me I couldn’t stop the back end stepping out all the time. running yellow darts front and rear and kit set up.. any advice would be great

[Navek668]

Originally Posted by On the roof

I found mine loud first run out yesterday up at RHR it’s my first Schumacher car and belt driven car also. I’m no expert...and I’m terrible at driving, but for the life of me I couldn’t stop the back end stepping out all the time. running yellow darts front and rear and kit set up.. any advice would be great

As everyone has said make sure side gears moly greased, check no binding anywhere and using long pinions to get safe mesh, mines quieter than my K2, with step out have you drilled the shock tops or running them emulsion? I moved rear shock tops in to the inside hole on the top of the shocks not had any issues, dropped diff oil to 10k too, have you checked the FAB setting, is it too tight causing rear lift? Just a few things to check, others may have more advice, I’m not claiming to be an expert just sharing what’s worked for me ��

[On the roof]

Originally Posted by Navek668

As everyone has said make sure side gears moly greased, check no binding anywhere and using long pinions to get safe mesh, mines quieter than my K2, with step out have you drilled the shock tops or running them emulsion? I moved rear shock tops in to the inside hole on the top of the shocks not had any issues, dropped diff oil to 10k too, have you checked the FAB setting, is it too tight causing rear lift? Just a few things to check, others may have more advice, I’m not claiming to be an expert just sharing what’s worked for me ��

Definitely no binding, I switched between pinions 18/20T while adjusting the mesh seems to help slightly.. since being home I’ve greased the gears more so I’ll no better after this weekend
I drilled the shock caps
On the FAB setting how did you set yours to get it right I might be doing something wrong with that? I never give that a thought

Dan

[Navek668]

Originally Posted by On the roof

Definitely no binding, I switched between pinions 18/20T while adjusting the mesh seems to help slightly.. since being home I’ve greased the gears more so I’ll no better after this weekend
I drilled the shock caps
On the FAB setting how did you set yours to get it right I might be doing something wrong with that? I never give that a thought

Dan

With the shocks I just made sure they dropped a little on placing flat so they have upward and downward travel and lowered oil to 350 but stayed with kit springs on rear, with fab, hold back wheels and roll front out in front of you and front wheels should turn but with a little resistance, tighten up more for high grip loosen off for low grip, hope that helps

[On the roof]

I’ve completly over looked the fab it was left flush with the end of the threads like it said to do in the manual I just forgot all about it my bad 😂
But I’m definitely dropping rear oil when it arrives

[Navek668]

Originally Posted by On the roof

I’ve completly over looked the fab it was left flush with the end of the threads like it said to do in the manual I just forgot all about it my bad 😂
But I’m definitely dropping rear oil when it arrives

Just wondered if you had any update, have the tweaks improved the car for you?
Cheers
K

[On the roof]

Originally Posted by Navek668

Just wondered if you had any update, have the tweaks improved the car for you?
Cheers
K

I stripped it down and found out I had a good bit of binding with the captive ball joints, so I’ve got rid of them. After greasing the gears and getting the mesh just right it’s definitely shut the noise up
I sorted the FAB out and things are definitely looking up!! Dropped the rear oil and messed about with shock adjustments.. I just need to get the practice in because my driving skills are terrible ATM LOL

Thanks for your help 👍🏻

[Navek668]

Excellent, glad it’s coming together for you, please do let me know any other tweaks you think might help, after running the K2 for 2 years I’ve got the captured ball joints sussed so will be keeping mine and maybe even changing the turnbuckle pop sockets front and rear over to them I find it keeps things tighter for longer. I just keep spares for all lengths just in case, I’ve also now changed over to 3.5mm Lunsford ti punisher turnbuckles all round as I found on the K2 that I needed to adjust camber after each run with the 3mm ones, just a thought, got them from DMS Racing in case you’re interested

[On the roof]

Originally Posted by Navek668

Excellent, glad it’s coming together for you, please do let me know any other tweaks you think might help, after running the K2 for 2 years I’ve got the captured ball joints sussed so will be keeping mine and maybe even changing the turnbuckle pop sockets front and rear over to them I find it keeps things tighter for longer. I just keep spares for all lengths just in case, I’ve also now changed over to 3.5mm Lunsford ti punisher turnbuckles all round as I found on the K2 that I needed to adjust camber after each run with the 3mm ones, just a thought, got them from DMS Racing in case you’re interested

literally just ordered some 3.5mm turnbuckles I’ve had them longer too as I don’t think the stand size turnbuckles on the car are long enough definitely could jump threads I’ve also changed out the plastic battery post for the k1 alloy ones I threaded the plastic ones straight away thought they where crap