Team Tekin Q&A - Page 82

Randy p · #**1621** 29-07-2013

This one is very common to use: http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/ESC..._13.5_v212.pdf

paul4898 · #**1622** 08-08-2013

who in the uk repairs tekins ,been in touch with rc disco and they said it will cost 75.00 for a exchange unit, the bad news is they dont do the rs pro anymore it will have to be a gen2 speedo but this only handles 6.5 motors and above, the other option they said was to send it back to the states which will cost $123.00 plus postage.
Any ideas if not looks like a change on all me speedos coming up

Randy p · #**1623** 09-08-2013

That's actually inaccurate, well at least part of it.

The RS Gen2 is only rated to an 8.5. The RS Pro is being discontinued and is giving way to the RSX.

What is wrong with your RS Pro?

paul4898 · #**1624** 09-08-2013

Is the rsx available in the uk??
My rs pro was working fine until sunday morning then two red lights either end of the light display came on.
I thought it needed resetting with my transmitter but unfortunatly the lights still stayed the same.
When i got home i found the light code meant incorrect motor type selected.Unfortunatly after resetting the speedo it still doing the same.
I think light no,s are 1.2 and 6.7

carborush · #**1625** 10-08-2013

try setting a different motor type with the onboard buttons

matt76 · #**1626** 12-08-2013

Hi, I've just swapped my rs pro and Tekin 5.5 motor out of my durango 410 and into a kyosho RB6, it ran fine in the 410 but yesterday it cut out a few times(3 lights on) after leaving for a few mins it was ok again, only thing I've changed was I put drag brake on 20, would anyone have a decent starting set up, I'm running ,on high grip astro.

Cheers matt.

Randy p · #**1627** 12-08-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by matt cougar sv

Hi, I've just swapped my rs pro and Tekin 5.5 motor out of my durango 410 and into a kyosho RB6, it ran fine in the 410 but yesterday it cut out a few times(3 lights on) after leaving for a few mins it was ok again, only thing I've changed was I put drag brake on 20, would anyone have a decent starting set up, I'm running ,on high grip astro.

Cheers matt.

Cutting out can be a few things. Which 3 led's were showing?

1 3 5 is low voltage cut off for example.

matt76 · #**1628** 12-08-2013

The lights where more central, think 2,4,6. i'll run it again and check. The esc is difficult to see in its location in this car.

Thanks for the reply.

matt76 · #**1629** 12-08-2013

The lights where more central, think 2,4,6. i'll run it again and check. The esc is difficult to see in its location in this car.

Thanks for the reply.

Lowie · #**1630** 15-08-2013

quick question:
What would be the benefits of drawbacks of fitting a second capacitator on the ESc (RS Pro).

I'm having difficulties with my ESC and think that it might be the cap that is not functioning OK. Is there a way to test this?

neallewis · #**1631** 15-08-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lowie

quick question:
What would be the benefits of drawbacks of fitting a second capacitator on the ESc (RS Pro).

I'm having difficulties with my ESC and think that it might be the cap that is not functioning OK. Is there a way to test this?

No problem at all. You can use something like this: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...capacitor.html

What difficulties are you having?

jo90 · #**1632** 15-08-2013

The power cap is more there to keep the brake fets cooler than anything else. I swapped messages with Randy at Tekin some tmie ago about this and it is fine to fit more than one, some mod touring racers do it to keep the fets cooler.

You can get the power caps in the same rating as Tekin's own one's which i have done and used for a long time now. I even soldered together a little bubble of them when i used to race TC.

There are no power advantages though, the speedo will not react or have any more power (its powerful enough anyway)

Hope that helps you

Lowie · #**1633** 15-08-2013

thx
I was not lokking for any improvment of the ESC-functions, just to keep it cooler.

I went training today at Kampenhout and think I have solved my probs.
I had problems with the motor and ESC getting very hot.
The settings on the ESC were some that a Tekin-guru-racer adviced me.
To make things clear, the friendly guy was racing also 4WD with it, but with adequate cooling airflow under the body ANd with an extra fan.
It was a setting with hugh timing but no boost or turbo.
My car however does not have a very good airflow on the electronics, neither did I have a fan.

I simply hooked the RS Pro on the netbook and reprogrammed it, back to my basics; sensored, timing carefully on 50 and boost on 10.
I also went down one tooth on the pinion.
To my relieve I still have adequate speed for my level of racing + good acceleration AND the temps on the motor and ESC stayed acceptable now -*relief-sigh*
70°C on the motor (in stead of the 90+°C I had earlier) and
reasonable (4-5 leds) (were they were blinking off the shart previously) after 8 + minutes of racing./
It seems I have sound the source of my troubles AND back on route to tinker the RS PRO to a good level of performance again, without crossing the line.

thx for the help.

jayropes · #**1634** 19-08-2013

Just about to put this into my 410 but have noticed that when you spin the shaft it feels really lumpy. You don't get the smooth notches that you normally feel.
I know the 5.5 has the high torque rotor but is this normal???

Randy p · #**1635** 19-08-2013

The "lumpy" part isn't anything to be alarmed about assuming it doesn't feel "sticky" in any way. Yes the majority of our Gen2 mod motors come with larger 13mm rotors standard. The entire team felt this was a better setup than a smaller rotor.

jayropes · #**1636** 19-08-2013

cheers Randy

its a lot stiffer than my 6.5 gen2, you can feel the small notches as normal but as you rotate the shaft you can feel 2 stiff notches.

if I have the flat edge of the shaft almost at the top of the motor (where the solder posts are) and rotate it clockwise - I can feel several notches, as you would normally for about 1/4 of its rotation, followed by 2 stiff notches. turning it slowly it is difficult to turn the shaft!!, so I suppose it does feel sticky??

jayropes · #**1637** 19-08-2013

sorry, I meant anti clockwise!!!

Randy p · #**1638** 19-08-2013

So you're comparing a Gen2 5.5 to a Gen2 6.5 right?

jayropes · #**1639** 20-08-2013

Yes, both gen2

jo90 · #**1640** 20-08-2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayropes

Just about to put this into my 410 but have noticed that when you spin the shaft it feels really lumpy. You don't get the smooth notches that you normally feel.
I know the 5.5 has the high torque rotor but is this normal???

I would recommend running the posts away from the motor (so the tekin label reads across from the motor), this way you get less heat soak from the motor into the posts. I also run a small 30mm fan blowing air on the posts. The 410 really has no airways to let air into the shell.