what to do against too much steering

[till]

as the title says what can i do against too much steering.
I tried the car very hard in the front and soft in the rear.
I´m running it as mid motor,
can anyone help me ??

[Dombrasky]

Hi
What tyres and surface are you running on ?

[Robby]

Originally Posted by Dombrasky

Hi
What tyres and surface are you running on ?

+2

[till]

haha sorry .... i´m running the car on astro front tires are normal stagger ribs not cut and not the wide ones, and D Boots in the rear

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Have you tried the new 4mm trailing spindles? Part number TLR1075 - see here

When we've tried them, they do calm the front end down.

Is your issue too much on corner entry, on exit or during the corner.
Running the 30 degree front kick block from the 22-T and 22-SCT also calms the front down but you'll probably also want to change your castor blocks to 0 deg or 3 deg options.

Running the link longer helps and you could modify the link as others have down to have it mounted further outboard at the kingpin. That is known to calm the front end down.

One last thing - just to be sure - is the problem at the front or could it be that the rear end is suddenly letting go causing the back to break away and over-steer to occur? Just a thought - without seeing your setup entirely, much of this could point you down the wrong path but, hopefully it might help.

[Gnarly Old Dog]

In case it helps...

Here's some generic starting setups that I've collected along my travels.

I managed to grab a little bit of time with Darren this week to get his current astro starting set up and I've also included my own generic starting set up.

I've also included a couple of setups from Jon Brown (jcb) - big up to Jon - he didn't have to send them to me but he's a good chap. He's recently won the east of England 2WD Regional series this year so I understand with the 22 as well. Not even a Team Driver but well done to him and thanks for allowing me to share this info.

Hopefully somewhere along the line, this might help?

Cheers.

[Robby]

Originally Posted by till

haha sorry .... i´m running the car on astro front tires are normal stagger ribs not cut and not the wide ones, and D Boots in the rear

WHICH D-boots?

You've got to give up EVERYTHING, including what kind of set-up you're using.


And, have you tried something as simple as turning down the steering rate on your controller?
I mean there is no rule that says you have to have your steering set at 100% when 80% will do.

[till]

Thanks to gnarly,
i´ll try it with the trailing.

I´m running the terra bites

[jcb]

Cheers for the big-up Andy

You might find that you have gone to hard on the front compared to the back so the car is not rolling consistently front to rear as you enter, travel through and exit the turn. Equally body roll is controlled by more factors than just your suspension setting, but a few of the guys at my local club nearly always soften the rear and stiffen the front to get rid of steering but in reality it doesn't always have the desired effects, making for a twitchy and unstable car that equally doesn't like going through bumps.

In my experience a stiff front can make the car very direct initially as the tire bites straight away, then mid corner as the tire grip is exceeded the front will start to wash out, then the softer rear end will roll too much causing the car to snatch mid corner. But again due to the soft rear end, when you apply power weight will transfer more quickly to rear causing the car to push wide on corner exit. It's probably not too good an explanation but hopefully you get the idea, that it's all about balance.

As said though it would be advantageous to have your full setup so that suggestions can be made as to what to change.

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by jcb

Cheers for the big-up Andy

No worries Jon - credit where credit's due.

Can't agree more with what Jon just posted. At the Oswestry national, I swapped to the rear motor 22 in the wet. First run the car felt as if the back end would suddenly let go in mid corner and would want to swap ends. After a bit of head scratching, I ended up going up a spring rate at the rear to stiffen it and it transformed it.

Who'd of thought stiffening the rear would yield apparently more traction but effectively it controlled the body roll more and kept the weight transfer more controlled.

I hope these snippets do help - after all, that's what these forums are all about but equally, each of us drives differently to each other. What works for Darren (Bloomfield) doesn't always work for me for instance. Darren is incredibly talented and has more natural ability in his little toe than I have in my entire body - but his setup doesn't make me go faster.

What makes me more consistent (thus hopefully faster) is working to achieve a balanced set up that suits my style and understanding the dynamics and physics that affect the car. Whilst driving styles may vary, Physics has an annoying habit of being rather constant but at least that consistency helps us to understand directionally how changes affect the balance so we can apply that knowledge thereafter across different situations.

There's also 101 ways to skin a cat (sorry for the Schumacher pun) - so you can get the same effect overall by taking different set up approaches. That's what makes this hobby so much fun as it constantly pushes our understanding and we constantly learn (and share) in order to go faster next time.

Keep the questions coming though - I'll not profess to know everything (or indeed very much) but the answers I'll give will always be 100% honest to the best of my current understanding

[jkirkwood]

I always enjoy reading oOple because you guys always seem to understand how the car is really working. I couldn't agree more with what has been said in the previous two posts. I see the same thing with the rear motor car on dirt surfaces and typically will run a slightly stiffer rear spring than the average joe racer at most tracks.

[RDG 40]

Ive jus read this thread before this weekends racing, id done all the previous mods to reduce steering but always still struggled more so in wet it always broke away suddenly, only way i cud drive in wet was green bbs and staggers way different to anyone. That wasnt perfect tho in anyway !!

I have jus re analysed my car and only thing j cud fink from what gnarly said was is the bk end breakin away

So wen bk to standard pistons and oils as per darrens sheets

Went out in very wet this weekend for practice !! Hey presto understeer!! Then in dry it was fantastic !!!

I thing i was to concerned in softening rear and hardening front id got balance wrong !! And each end was too far apart

Ive also jus tried same on touring car i totally wanted less steering so i had harder front, afta advice i softened front to b same as bk and again car improved to b perfect !!!

Defo try suspension its worked for me, at slippery indoor all im gona do is reduce oils 2.5 each end hopefully it will b spot on then as last year i struggled.

If im not mistaken gnarly may respond oil shud neva b more than 5w diffence between front and rear

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Yeah I like my oil weights to be fairly close all round but so much depends on the pistons as well and the track conditions and temperatures.

But as a rule of thumb, I'd begin with trying to get something that is within 5wt front/rear of each other and a little heavier in the front. So i tend to start with 30wt front and 25 or 27.5wt rear.
But the trick is as jcb commented - it's all about balance. Achieving the right balance will make the car behave itself in the variety of conditions and situations that are encountered in an average lap and race.
HTH.