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  #1  
Old 18-12-2015
big red bus big red bus is offline
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Default tc02c evo idler gears

Have just started to use my t c02c evo. I brought it brand new but guy had already built it. Now i finished it off and got it working. Used for first time last week and within 4 laps of the track at very light speed, when landing from a jump one of the idler gears stripped . Ok so i stripped down cleaned out debris and replaced gear. Tun tonight and same thing as happened . Soft landing and atripped. Any one had similar problems or can point in direction of may have been put together wrong or may be the problem. Any help much appeciated. Thanks
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  #2  
Old 18-12-2015
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There are various idlers, the alloy or white ones are easily up to the job. Speak to Kev Lee at inside line models. He will sort you out.
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Old 20-12-2015
trebboR trebboR is offline
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You can also buy the 3 low gear conversion from az mechanics. Also buy the 40t pom gear from az and you wont strip any gears any more ;-)
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  #4  
Old 20-12-2015
mattybucks mattybucks is offline
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You need to shim one of the idler gears over to one side. Have a look at the case - one of the layshaft bearings will slightly raised (non slipper side), and will rub on the idler causing it to fail. There's load room to do this and it will solve the problem.

Clean all the gears - I use clutch cleaner And use a scalpel and make sure every last bit of debris is out of the teeth of the the diff and layshaft.

Last edited by mattybucks; 20-12-2015 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 20-12-2015
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Clive Loynes Clive Loynes is offline
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Bendy plastic gearbox casings are not good for gears.

In order for the idler to fail as you describe, even the black ones, I would expect that there is some heat involved. It could be, as stated in the posts above, that the layshaft bearing is rubbing on the top idler. There was a fault on early casings and I don't know if it is cured yet. This will cause heat but I would have thought that you would have noticed the rough feel of the gearbox when you built it. Some people chamfer the edge of the top idler to clear the protruding bearing but if it can be shimmed over then why not? I would have thought that to add shims to the non-slipper side you would also have to remove material from the boss that locates the bearing on the slipper side of the casing, which may cause the idler to rub on that side of the casing instead.

If the layshaft bearing isn't the culprit then it may just be that your particular casing isn't holding the gears in their correct mesh. This means that you will get some heat generated. The previous failures could have permanently distorted the casing. It's a thermoplastic, so when it reaches the temperature at which it softens it will move under load and not come back. In this case, the gears will always get hot but the white POM idlers or the aluminium version, as stated in the previous posts, will probably stop it from failing.

BTW, is it the top idler that fails?
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Old 20-12-2015
big red bus big red bus is offline
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Thanks for all replys. Yes itd the top gear that has stripped on both occasions. I have replace gear now with white coloured gear from some spares i had lying round. Have just happily used it for a few good runs. Doing at least 30 laps in total with no issues.
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Old 20-12-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big red bus View Post
Thanks for all replys. Yes itd the top gear that has stripped on both occasions. I have replace gear now with white coloured gear from some spares i had lying round. Have just happily used it for a few good runs. Doing at least 30 laps in total with no issues.
The creamy white gears are the POM gears that people refer to. They are made from Polyoxymethylene (POM), also known as acetal. It is an engineering thermoplastic, used in precision parts requiring high stiffness, low friction and excellent dimensional stability. Used a lot for plastic gears.

Did you notice if the layshaft bearing was flush with the inside of the casing or standing proud? If the gearbox feels free then I guess it is ok.
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Last edited by Clive Loynes; 20-12-2015 at 05:39 PM.
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Old 20-12-2015
mattybucks mattybucks is offline
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If you bought a full evo then it should have come with metal gears. If you have the conversion then it's whatever was in the car. It's not the gears - it's the bearing.
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Old 20-12-2015
big red bus big red bus is offline
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Didnt notice anything when apart and turns nice and free. Will see how it goes i guess.
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Old 01-01-2016
Allan1875 Allan1875 is offline
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I raced this car for around 3 meetings wtih no issues at all. I built the car with the white idlers as I didn't like how rough the gearbox felt with the alloy one when the car was new.

On its 4th meeting a landed off the double, not very hard and obliterated both gears. As you have said, the bearing protrudes and with case flex, touches the bearing. I've currently went back to the metal idlers, although the car is noisy now.

Good tip with the spacing, worth a try.
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Old 01-01-2016
mattybucks mattybucks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allan1875 View Post
I raced this car for around 3 meetings wtih no issues at all. I built the car with the white idlers as I didn't like how rough the gearbox felt with the alloy one when the car was new.

On its 4th meeting a landed off the double, not very hard and obliterated both gears. As you have said, the bearing protrudes and with case flex, touches the bearing. I've currently went back to the metal idlers, although the car is noisy now.

Good tip with the spacing, worth a try.
The car may be noisy because the idler might be rubbing against the bearing. This will cause it to fail over time. Run a white idler next to the layshaft - layshaft, plastic, metal, diff. Shim the gear away from the bearing. Job done.
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Old 01-01-2016
Allan1875 Allan1875 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattybucks View Post
The car may be noisy because the idler might be rubbing against the bearing. This will cause it to fail over time. Run a white idler next to the layshaft - layshaft, plastic, metal, diff. Shim the gear away from the bearing. Job done.
Could well be. No one looked into a narrower bearing? Think I might look into that too.
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Old 01-01-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allan1875 View Post
Could well be. No one looked into a narrower bearing? Think I might look into that too.

Yes, I did.

There is a 3mm wide bearing that would do the job.
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Old 26-03-2016
Monkeysmate Monkeysmate is offline
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Could anyone tell me where they've got to with this please?
Has anyone tried the narrower bearing option?
Thank you
Tim
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Old 26-03-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeysmate View Post
Could anyone tell me where they've got to with this please?
Has anyone tried the narrower bearing option?
Thank you
Tim

http://www.rcbearings.co.uk/index.ph...roduct_id=1596
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Old 26-03-2016
Monkeysmate Monkeysmate is offline
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Thanks Clive. Is this consisted the best solution then?
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Old 26-03-2016
Allan1875 Allan1875 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeysmate View Post
Thanks Clive. Is this consisted the best solution then?
Definitely, works brilliantly.
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  #18  
Old 26-03-2016
Monkeysmate Monkeysmate is offline
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Thanks Allan. Does it require additional shimming to take up the slack?
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  #19  
Old 26-03-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeysmate View Post
Thanks Allan. Does it require additional shimming to take up the slack?
Only if your slipper side bearing is loose in the casing.

If it is a good fit, then the shaft is positioned by that bearing; as when the slipper is tightened it pulls the shaft through the bearing until the internal spacer comes up against the bearing. It is then trapped between the internal and external spacers. If there is still end float after the slipper is loaded then it is because that bearing is loose in the casing.
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