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#1
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new here, cougar sv
Hi all, just got myself a cougar sv, thats it!!!
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#2
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Good choice.
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#3
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hope so, never raced 2wd before, started with a hotshot way back, all 4wd's in between and ended 3 yrs ago with cat 3000, now starting back with this one!!
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#4
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Likewise, went tamiya Frog to Hotshot then on to the original Schumacher Cat, stopped racing in 1988 and only got back into it in 2009.
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#5
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Ok, cougar is up and running, racing at Tiverton, but the diff, arrrrgh, keeps coming loose, tighten it up and the main gear still spins, tighten some more, still comes loose, tried it both ways!!
Help please, is there an idiots guide to building a diff? Allen |
#6
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your cir clip in the centre of the diff is probaly not tight in the groove making the diff slip put a flat blade screw driver between the ends of the clip and turn the screwdriver to push the clip apart. untill you cant rotate the clip in the groove.
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Schumacher cougar laydown |
#7
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Hi All,
I've heard that if the diff is in the wrong way due to the wheel rotation and during a race it can come loose, swap it round and see what happen.. if it wont tighten up on the bench then the spacing could be wrong in the diff or the c clip could be the culprit. Not sure if this helps or not as only I just got a SV as the first 1/10th buggy and im overall very impressed with it. Ive got a generic 7.5t and a schulze uforce75, its very rapid and has soooo much grip, in fact too much. last weekend at Southport (my first race) almost every corner it would flip very easily. I should have sorted this by upping the oil wt and flattening the shock angle. |
#8
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just a thought, you have loosened or removed the lock bolt/screw on the opposite side of the main diff screw? i would stop you being able to fully tighten the diff
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#9
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Right the curclip was bent when it was put in, do couldn't tighten the diff, spun up and melted the middle out of the pulley gear, all bearings melted in as well.
Got all new bits now diff running lovely, according to Schumacher doesn't matter which way round the diff goes, the grub screw holds it. Another question, I'm running 20/83 on a 5.5 Novak brushless, its getting quite hot, the esc, should I go up a pinion? |
#10
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Most guys would run a 7.5t most times or a 6.5t only on large high grip tracks in the summer. I would suggest a 5.5t is perhaps too fast if you are just new here or new to the 2wd off road game. Gearing with a 7.5t should be about 81t spur with a 23t pinion. Make sure you are running the correct settings on your esc too.
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#11
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I typically run a 6.5t on 20/78, which would equate to 21/83. No problems with overheating indoors or out on this, and generally don't run the ESC fan either.
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Current Weapons: YZ2-CA, YZ2-DT, YZ-4SF. In The Pits: Yokomo R12C, Yokomo MR4-TC Custom, Yokomo MR4-TC Pro, Yokomo MR4-Rally, Tamiya Blitzer Beetle, Tamiya M05. Driven: Race Red Fiesta ST
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#12
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Quote:
As for gearing I use a cheap sensorless 7.5 which is more like a 8.5 (I think) on 25/79 after 5 mins plus 1 min warmup it comes of warm but not hot, it does seem quite a high gearing though. |
#13
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ok, raced sunday, 18/83, got hot! but after 5 mins, cut out as well, but i put that down to no fan on the esc.
buggered the steering tho, tried full power down the straight, god that thing flies, wheelied, lost control, ish, into the side's broke the bulkhead. now i think the servo is broke, anyone know of a servo saver set up, or a good servo!! |
#14
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I race at tivvy too 7.5 is all you need there
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RC OCTANE Schumacher Cougar LD2 Lrp Eds Sworkz 35-4n Alpha dragon |
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