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  #1  
Old 20-01-2010
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Default M18T Pro electronics???

Hi everyone,

I'm new to 1/18 scale cars. I'm waiting for my M18T Pro to arrive, and wonder what kind of electronics I should put in it...

I will maybe race it (if I find any track here), but will probably more bash it than anything else... I lilke fast stuff, but won't need a silly fast little thing... Speed racing is not my cup of tea

So what king of electronics would you recommend? I'm looking for advices concerning steering servo, ESC/brushless motor combo and LIPO battery... Oh, and what about the gearing???

Do those little Lipo batteries require a special charger? Or will my Turnigy accucell manage the job?

Thanks a lot for your inputs!

Julien
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  #2  
Old 22-01-2010
davidmog99 davidmog99 is offline
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try uk micro rc forum.
loads of info on there about these.
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  #3  
Old 22-01-2010
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The pack that Xray sell seems really good, especially if you're not racing since the ESC can't have the reverse disabled. I'm still using the motor that came in that pack - ok it's not quite as fast as the top lads running brushless but it's quick.
I'm running a brushed 1/10th scale novak ESC in mine.
I'm also running the xray servo - really quick and never let me down
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Old 22-01-2010
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Thanks a lot David for the input! I'll have a look at this

Thanks a lot Jimmy too! I've read your very good review of the little beast and it really makes me wish I have it right here right now!!! I've read what you think of the combo, but the motor is brushed, and I don't want maintenance... Oh, almost forgot, I looooove your avatar!!! It's so cute and funny!!!

Thanks a lot once more!

Julien
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  #5  
Old 23-01-2010
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Julien, my tip for the day is. For most feeling and low money the eZrun (hobbywing) 25A esc with the 5400 motor or the 7800 is the best buy today if you ask me. around 50$ and a handheld programbox is realy good for it´s tuning.. (same as the speedpassions programbox etc). I have tested the >Tekin,Mamba,Graupner etc, but non of them can compete with the ultra lowbudget eZrun system in feeling and price

A must upgrade is.

Ultra strong "bear thread" to wire the front upper arms, use thin CA glue to get it in place..you will not brek any arms anymore...

Stock plastic shocks are great, but Pro alu shocks allows you to use Duratrax vendetta buggy shock bladers, it will make the shocks 10000 times better...and the affect on the setup is real good. (even the springs, but for the Duratrax miniquake (yellow hard)
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Old 23-01-2010
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Thanks a lot Thomas!!!

The Ezrun was the conclusion I came to whil reading micro rc. I'll probably also get an inolab servo and some Overlanders batteries Which motor would e the best? As I will mostly bash, I think the 7800 would be the right choice to begin with? What pinion should I use?

Thanks a lot for the tip! Very useful if I it allows not to break any arms

I will probably upgrade to alloy shocks, but probably only after putting some steel diffs... I have first to see how it handles.

Thanks a lot once again!

Julien
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  #7  
Old 23-01-2010
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The plastic diffs work great ,but the org alu ones are the best there is...im running it in the rear (will get one for front) app 20packs or more, and still almost NIB feeling..

7800 is a good one, i used to run it, around 12-13T piniong is a good starter

You will not break any arms on it.

Shock mod



Reinforced arms..



A lot of CA thin one...let it dry then you are ready...i finished it with 2comp epoxy, no need for it

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Old 23-01-2010
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That's a great help! Thanks a lot!

Just one last question... I do'nt have the little beast yet, but would like to order the electronics... What is the max size batteries I could fi in it? Would this fit : http://www.overlander.co.uk/index.ph...emart&Itemid=0

Thanks once more!

Julien
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  #9  
Old 29-01-2010
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Thomas - could you please explain why the Duratrax bladder modification helps on the alu shocks?

Thanks,
Torben
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Old 29-01-2010
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They are smother all the way from top to bottom. It feels softer vs the stock "plastic look a like" bladder. Id say this one of the best modification for this car besides the "thread mod" with CA on upper arms /front/rear.

What i mean is, the soft cilconeplastic bladder from duratrax will move with the piston up all the way, and will not affect the "pressure" sort of. The best thing since there is almost zero cost for this is to test it and feel the difference, i did, and my other M18T Pro driver feels it to.
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  #11  
Old 29-01-2010
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Default duratrax bladder

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas P View Post
They are smother all the way from top to bottom. It feels softer vs the stock "plastic look a like" bladder.
Hi Thomas,
do you have any pictures/description of the installation of the bladders? Do you have the Duratrax part number or link to the part?

do you know of any mods that are worthwhile?


thank you very much

ian
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  #12  
Old 01-02-2010
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Hi, sorry for late reply (vacation).
Here is the bladder

Use a sharp scissor to cu a bit of the DTX bladder





Yes the "bear thread mod" on the upper front and rear arms are a MUST!!!




Use CA glue.. Leave app 4-5mm until the ball"mount" after passing the Y...do NOT, i mean DO NOT over tighten the thread after pasing the Y, it will BIND when mounting then...after everything is done, you will have a "hole" @ the Y fill it up with Epoxy...

If it is worth it? it takes app 2h for all this, and they are ROCK....i have broken 1!! under 200 packs +
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  #13  
Old 03-02-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jooles View Post
That's a great help! Thanks a lot!

Just one last question... I do'nt have the little beast yet, but would like to order the electronics... What is the max size batteries I could fi in it? Would this fit : http://www.overlander.co.uk/index.ph...emart&Itemid=0

Thanks once more!

Julien
These's batteries do fit been using them for a while. They are very good light and lots of power.
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  #14  
Old 04-02-2010
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Hello!

Thanks a lot for all the inputs! I think I'm loaded with tips and everything

I've ordered a few hopups for my little car (well, all of them in fact ), painted the body... I'm just waiting for the electronics and hopups to come.

This should be a pretty nice ride!!!

Thanks again!

Julien
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  #15  
Old 05-02-2010
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Nice to hear, picture etc is a must

/T
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  #16  
Old 05-02-2010
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No problem

You'll get some as soon as I get the stuff

Ju
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  #17  
Old 06-02-2010
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Hi again,

I'm coming back here because I'm searching for the bladders to put in the alloy shocks... Is "DTXC9044" the reference to go for?

On a side note, the delivery of the parts will take more time than expected : I found what I need only at one seller that does not want to ship outside UK as far as he told me... So back searching! Sorry for the pics, but I'll only put pics of the baby when I'll get the stickers for the body : the paintjob is not that nice and I want the stickers to hide some mistakes I made (damn flake red with incredible solvant making the black melt...).

Julien
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  #18  
Old 19-02-2010
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After breaking at least 20 front upper suspension arms, I tried the "bear thread with CA glue" trick. It's probably just bad luck, but one of the arms broke after 10 minutes driving.

So now I am experimenting with boiling the arms, as I was told on the teamxray forum. The suspension seems to flex more, but I cannot feel any change to the way the car handles. However, they still do break, so I am unsure whether boiling actually helps?

I like the M18T pro, but this front suspension arm problem is a serious pain caused by an obvious construction weakness. Are there any other advice or trick you guys can help me with?
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  #19  
Old 25-02-2010
mrspeedy mrspeedy is offline
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The Xray is a tidy car for sure, mine was ballistic, but the obvious weaknesses and cost of replacement is probably what makes most peeps convert to the Shark .... shame really cos I liked the M18 pro, but it is built too light for it's own good ....
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  #20  
Old 28-02-2010
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Hello everyone!

Well, the little beast had its first run today. Finally, the A arms are not that weak... Other parts are though



It's not that wrong, but I don't have any spare for this. So the little baby is stopped until I find some replacement (should have this somewhere, only have to search). I knew I shouldn't have run it outdoor : too much cars in the streets (of course, the crash happened at full throttle). I wanted to wait for the stickers to show you the body, but, well, as it's broken now, let's give it a go (well, after a little bit of clean up...)



I should have taken pics before the run, but... Now, the body is broken around the front wheel arch, paint has chipped.

So, some conclusions from this run :
- I'm really glad I have expo on my transmitter. It was a mess to drive until I played a little with this
- this car is no competition with a real one in strengh
- I have to fit a rear spoiler, at least the original one, but better a truggy one
- those are a lot more twitchy and sensitive than 1/10 and 1/8... A lot!
- this was great fun!

And some questions... The car spins really easily. This is mainly due to my poor driving skills and the lack of rear spoiler, I know. But if it spins and I'm full throttle, I have to release the trigger very fast unless it will end on the roof. Is it normal? Anything to make it less "roof friendly"?

Every once and a while I had to twitch the steering trim because it ran on a side under throttle. What could I do about this?

Thanks!

Julien
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