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#81
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Magnus, try drilling the rear pistons to 2x1.7 rather than going down in oil .... trust me
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#82
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Quote:
When it comes to drilling pistons I get lost |
#83
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Quote:
I raced on a track with different carpet types so traction depended on which type you was on:-) I tried the orange Super hard springs in the front but it took too much steering out. Going to drill the rear pistons and change rear toe in to 2.5 degrees for next time. |
#84
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Lee I'm sure Roger will give you his opinion but I would say your oils are definitely too high. EP 4WD you tend to see oils range from about 250-500 as a general rule with the front stiffer than the back by 50-100 that's just from my experience see what everyone else chips in with. What springs did you use with your oils?
Cheers Chris |
#85
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Quote:
i could well be to high but the car was great!! orange front springs and gold rear kit pistons all round thanks for the info |
#86
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Whatever works for you mate different driving styles suit different set ups. I'd be interested to hear what roger has to say with regards Pistons as it's not really something I have messed about with too much.
Chris |
#87
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yeah im the same, im going to try losi oils with the 1.6f and 1.7r pistons next week
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#88
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Hi guys,
I'm Liam, and I do the Mechanicing for Bootsie. At maritime for Elliott's car we went up in the oils from Kyosho 550 front and 350 rear to Losi 60wt front Losi 40wt rear. (We use the Losi Oils in 8th so wanted to use them in 10th also) I think in kyosho weight oils it would be 800 front 450/500 rear. This helped the car stop pitching and transferring the weight so much. The car also generates a lot of traction from the design of the chassis/braces, and having the car soft just generated more traction which makes the car edgy and hard to drive. If you've got any questions etc just ask will try and answer/help out.
__________________
JQ Racing - Team Associated |
#89
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Very much depends on the surface & from my distant memories of Maritime it is really grippy.
Seems to me that Magnus & LeeBoy are running on fairly different grip levels. Zx6 generates a ton of grip but does it a really balanced way. One of the great features of the Kyosho cars is how responsive to setup cchanges they are. If I was to go to Maritie any ttime soon I'd start on Elliott's set up. On lower grip surfaces, although still fairly high as astro, I've found that generating a little more roll in the rear actually transfers weight diagonally forward so aids steering. RB6 is similar. Works for me but I don't make the demands on the car Bootsie does lol |
#90
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Yeah, for a high traction track the maritime setup would be the place to start.
We haven't tried the car on astro of varying grip levels like this yet (harder setup) but will when we get chance to see how it reacts.
__________________
JQ Racing - Team Associated |
#91
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Hi all,
I’m about to start building my ZX-6 shortly and would like to confirm with all of you that have run the car indoors what would be the best battery layout to use - shorty or saddle ??? I will be running the car indoors on mixture of carpet and polished gym floor. Thanks for any advice you may offer me - hope the car is as good as everybody says it is !! |
#92
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That's the biggest question to ASK.
We got guys swear by both, and they both work,It seems car is easier to get right to left balance perfect with Shorty but i think the front to rear Bias is the key ! So for me Saddles is the way, that's what Elliott runs with great success. |
#93
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Neil
With the shorty option, the motor being to the rear as well, that will give more rear bias (compared to saddles and motor forward), would this suggest requiring even more height on the rear inner hinge pins. Derek
__________________
Kyosho ZX6 Kyosho FS2 Kyosho RB6 Kyosho DB1 Kyosho DB2 Kyosho Turbo Ultima Kyosho Optima Schumacher Atom NORA - Northern Off-Road Arena - www.ddrcc.co.ukTrader Feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49044 |
#94
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I run boots set up be with shorty on high grip carpet and it was great
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#95
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You'll be surprised how close weight distribution is between shortie + rear motor and the saddle layout, I certainly was!
Main difference is just overall weight, I like the car light but that is presonal preference. If you want to throw the weight bias forwards use the shortie + motor forward option. |
#96
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Anyone got a setup for wet grass
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#97
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Kit without roll bars.
__________________
Kyosho ZX6 Kyosho FS2 Kyosho RB6 Kyosho DB1 Kyosho DB2 Kyosho Turbo Ultima Kyosho Optima Schumacher Atom NORA - Northern Off-Road Arena - www.ddrcc.co.ukTrader Feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49044 |
#98
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Quote:
Probably going to raise the shock oil 50cst. Going to test it this sunday. |
#99
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Hi
I have read this thread with interest as I am on the verge of getting one myself. It seems like the most popular layout is to run the shorty in a config which is not listed in the manual. Why is that? Is it so much better than the other layouts? I was thinking of running it in saddle and noticed Elliot Boots runs it like that but he does seem to be in a minority? Whats the main differences? Thanks |
#100
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In shorty layout, if you have lipo and servo down one side, and esc and motor the other, with orion electrics it's almost perfectly balanced, other brands probably will be close as well, just need to check what you use.
Nothing wrong with saddles either, it just gives a small front to rear weight bias difference compared to using shorty, being honest both layouts are good, you really need to try them back to back to see what you prefer. If you have saddles just now try that layout and see if you like it, it's a great car.
__________________
Kyosho ZX6 Kyosho FS2 Kyosho RB6 Kyosho DB1 Kyosho DB2 Kyosho Turbo Ultima Kyosho Optima Schumacher Atom NORA - Northern Off-Road Arena - www.ddrcc.co.ukTrader Feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49044 |
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