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#1
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Plastic chassis x11
Hi can any one help I am trying to buy an x11 plastic chassis, I would prefere the lipo version but I can not get a reply from emails sent to team xtreme as to the price, part no or even availablity. Does anyone know if the lipo version is ready yet .
Many thanks |
#2
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I find its best to call the shop. As far as I'm aware there's no chassis available without the holes for the cells at the moment, I got a plastic one last week, part number is XL007RS and it costs the same as the graphite one.
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Lets Off Road! |
#3
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Thanks for the info i will ring on monday
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#4
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as far as i know the lipo chassis is't ready yet but not far off
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#5
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Any news on a release date for the stick pack chassis?
I snapped my XRS chassis today and don't want to fork out $75 AUD for a chassis with nimh holes if a the new one is not too far away. |
#6
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At this moment there is no 'new' chassis planned...
The ones the team drivers are using are standard plastic chassis with the holes filled in using milliput or filler. The issue at the moment is some people are using full size servo's and some half height. This means everyones layout is different. There is talk that a new chassis will arrive but it is a long way off at the moment. There will be other new developments over the next few months but as normal these things take time. Good thing is from the x10 to the latest x11 08 you can add the latest parts..... continued development of a good car rather than a whole new one!! keep your eyes on www.the-pred.co.uk for updates
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X Factory UK - Team Corally - DMS Racing - Tuning Haus - Exotek - Avid - Alpha - JConcepts
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#7
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Quote:
The X11 chassis's however are not a direct replacement for that of an X10/XRS. The way the wishbone mounting works is slightly different... The X11 has aluminium hingepin blocks... Hope that helps
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Team Losi Racing, Horizon Hobby TLR 22 5.0, TLR 22X-4, TLR 22-4, 22-4 2.0 Atomic Carbon S2, S44, Vega B4.1 Trader feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19374 |
#8
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Quote:
Could you possibly tell me part numbers please? |
#9
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Quote:
Sooooooo just buy an XRS chassis if it isn't in stock anymore I know someone who still has a 2nd hand.
__________________
www.rc-offroad.be Never argue with a stupid man. He will drag you down to his level and beat you because of his experience. |
#10
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Not 100% sure about the X10, but sounds like you would need:
XS010 - rear toe plate XS011 - internal rear toe plate XS016 - rear pivot pin\ Hope that helps. |
#11
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Cooper is right...
I dont have part numbers at the moment but you would need... -front and rear, inner and outer hinge pin blocks -front and rear hinge pins -front and rear shock tower -X11 lower wishbones or you could drill out the XRS ones
__________________
Team Losi Racing, Horizon Hobby TLR 22 5.0, TLR 22X-4, TLR 22-4, 22-4 2.0 Atomic Carbon S2, S44, Vega B4.1 Trader feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19374 |
#12
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Thanks for the info guys, think I might just source an XRS chassis.
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#13
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It will cost you a fortune to get the x11 bits. . .
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#14
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Which chassis would be stronger in a crash?
The stock C107 chassis or the upgraded C107X one? |
#15
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How long is a piece of string?
The strength of the chassis in a crash depends on very many factors, not limited to, but including:- 1) What did you hit 2) How fast did you hit it 3) What part of the car hit what 4) How high you were previously in the air 5) What angle you hit the ground on A Graphite chassis is strong and does not flex as much as a plastic chassis, so it may well break in a crash that a plastic chassis survives, taking the 5 points above into consideration. Generally speaking the plastic chassis "should" be more forgiving in a crash than a graphite one, taking in to consideration the 5 points above. On another note, a plastic chassis should also generate slightly more grip due to increased flex in the chassis too (hence why it might appear stronger than a graphite one). I would recommend that you purchase the plastic chassis instead of the graphite version |
#16
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I assume the plastic chassis is the stock one? That is the one I snapped but I did hit a mates leg at WOT.
I am running a Mamba 5700 with 2s lipo and 16t pinion. I was thinking the stock one should flex a bit more and forgive more than the stiffer graphite one. I doubt I will hit something as solid as a leg again so it was a bit of a freak incident. |
#17
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The stock one is graphite, I would recomend going for the plastic as it's got a bit more give and is less brittle.
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Lets Off Road! |
#18
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I'm confused, are we talking about the same chassis? I'm after one for the XRS, is there even a plastic one that fits it without having to buy all the pivot blocks etc?
I thought the C107X chassis was the graphite one and the C107 was plastic? Or are they both graphite but the C107X has more graphite in it? |
#19
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it's quite simpel
X11 chassis stock = graphite X11 chassis option = plastic X10 chassis stock = graphite X10 chasis option = extra light graphite (doesn't exist anymore I think) XRS chassis = plastic Your cheapest options are the 3 at the end My friend who still has an XRS chassis is on holiday so can't contact him at the moment. +I don't know it what condition it is. He bought my previous XRS so he will have loads of parts AND X10 parts. But I don't know how expensive it is to send to the other side of the world....
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www.rc-offroad.be Never argue with a stupid man. He will drag you down to his level and beat you because of his experience. |
#20
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seen the guy today, still interested ?
__________________
www.rc-offroad.be Never argue with a stupid man. He will drag you down to his level and beat you because of his experience. |
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