SC10 4x4 FT - Drive train issues

[Randall34]

I'm building a SC10 4x4 FT, after building the gearbox casings up i noticed that they don't really run very freely, the diff/idler/topshaft seems to have tight spots, thought i'd carry on and see what it is like after a few runs. However now i have introduced the belt and the whole drivetrain seems to be very resistant. Has anyone got any advice, the belt drives i've had in the past have at least free wheeled (with no motor) this doesn't, so i thought i'd ask you before running it.
Please help.
Cheers
Neil

[BeachBuggyPhil]

Did you put the idler in the right way round?
I've had 5 sessions with mine now, about 10 packs, and everything has bedded in a lot.
I to was initially concerned about the tightness of the drive train but it does say in the book about it bedding in and re tensioning the belt after in so I made sure I was happy it was built right, ran a pack or two checking for binding and it has all loosened and is now a lot more free.
Its possible to put the front clicker together incorrectly, for a slipper pad to slip out the spur while assembling, the clicker nut will undo after 3 or 4 packs, loctite it, the diff sun gears may need another shim or two, use shock limiters above the spring cradle to limit shock travel so the drive shafts don't catch on the outdrives when you press the suspension all the way(best done with springs off but spring cradle on, especially necessary if you don't fit the boots), the belt will loosen, the slipper will need double checking, front blue or yellow springs work well on the rear and I think thats it.
Have fun, I put a few packs through mine today and the biggest issue was to much drag brake which was set low but the SC411 Tenshock motor is very strong and it was like putting a handbrake on as I lifted off for corners so I spun. I've also put 100grams of weight under the saddle packs which helped.

[BeachBuggyPhil]

Oh, another thing to be very careful about is the gearbox mounting screws, one of the 3 is a different length and if you do any of the three up to tight they will poke through the other side and rub on the clicker on the front or the slipper plate on the rear. Make sure each is in the right hole and then look at the opposite side as you do it up and stop once its flush with the end of the gear box case, don't ream it up tight.

[Randall34]

Thanks Phil.
That all good to know, i'll finish the build and give it a go and see how it beds in.

Thanks for responding.

Neil

[BeachBuggyPhil]

I also found a bit of grit in one of the bearings when I was building mine, rcbearing.co.uk made up a full bearing kit for me which all seem to fit perfectly and he now has the kit for sale. Once you've run it another good check is to unscrew the inner ball studs and check all wheel bearings are nice and smooth. CVD pins can snag and new bearings may, like mine, be faulty.
The best setup I've found so far is this one, post number 8.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-services.html

with some added weight.