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  #1  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
grim92 grim92 is offline
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Default Anyone moved from XRAY XB2 to B6.1?

As per the title, just wanted to hear from anyone that’s made the switch and what they think before I buy a kit.

Thanks in advance 👍🏻
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  #2  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
yokomoyz2's Avatar
yokomoyz2 yokomoyz2 is offline
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Default Me

Trust me
The b6.1 is superb. The setup window is a lot bigger. The car is so forgiving.
Superb bit kit
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  #3  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
tonydevon tonydevon is offline
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Im returning after year off.
Went up local astro track to çatch up with mates.
Got the chance to try a b6.1 that was on not ideal tyres.

Just picked it back up and went round n round.

Wow. So easy to drive.

I have a b6.1d now.
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  #4  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
AmiSMB AmiSMB is offline
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I just tried one on carpet last weekend and was very impressed.

Likes
  • Very smooth shock absorbers with the FT Low friction o-rings which are standard with the kit. I did not use the moulded spacers I went with the machined ones.
  • Very easy to drive
  • All toe in/out and anti-squat options are part of the kit for the rear
  • Loads of options in the kit for the front end setup
  • Allows the angle of the rear wing to be changed as part of the kit
  • The two mounts for the wings are joined together by the angle adjuster which should stop some damage to the rear wing in a crash
  • Ball ends nice and smooth without any slop and did not need any squeezing
  • Plenty of room for the electrics
  • Very quiet compared to my Schumacher KC which maybe accounted for more % left in my LCG lipos at the end of a run
  • Really like the way that the battery is held in nice and secure and is fully adjustable for different height batteries
  • Body is very light weight
  • Areas in the chassis that have been milled to allow the use of different fixed weights to alter weight distribution
  • Bearings with metal shield one side and rubber on the other. I usually replace my bearings with this type (usually get an Avid replacement set) as they have much less friction than double rubber shielded bearings
  • Different offset spring cups for adjustability
  • Spring cups with plenty of plastic that goes into the spring so it is always in the right place

Dislikes
  • Plastic casing on rear diff buckles when you tighten down the screws and then allows oil to leak out due to a bad seal. Aluminium casing recommended
  • The two screws that disappear into the front bulkhead from the top just behind the shock tower. If the hex strips then they are very hard to remove (had to do this on a club members B6 when helping them out). Decent hex driver which is kept in good condition recommended
  • Did feel that the car was very short for high grip carpet so went with B64 Hard rear arms
  • The fact that you cannot get a J Concepts lower front wing or the expensive Proline lower front wing as there is no stock anywhere and CML states the proline is not due till March! Good job I have a 3d printer
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  #5  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
MiCk B.'s Avatar
MiCk B. MiCk B. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmiSMB View Post
...........

  • Plastic casing on rear diff buckles when you tighten down the screws and then allows oil to leak out due to a bad seal. Aluminium casing recommended...........

Hi,


If the diff is leaking, it possible that you are over filling it.
When I'm replacing mine, I empty and clean the diff. Then (using a scale) I fill with 1 gram of oil. Diff is the same every-time with no leaking.


MiCk B. :-)
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  #6  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
AmiSMB AmiSMB is offline
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I fill it just below the cross pins like I do with all my other cars. The oil came out before I had even run the car.

So I took the plate off of the diff and used engineers blue to see how flat the surface was and I found that it was not flat. Hard to do with the locators that are moulded into the plastic bit I used a very flat steel rule across the rest of the flat face. I had not tested the part prior to building the diff but have read that if you over tighten the screws on the diff then if will deform the plastic plate.

As my plate is deformed and not perfectly flat then putting in less oil is not going to help if the seal is still no good.

Anyway I have the aluminium one now and tested the flatness using the same engineers blue and everything is fine now.
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  #7  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
daz75 daz75 is offline
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Have you got links to the aluminium ones you mention AmiSMB?
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  #8  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
thrasher321 thrasher321 is offline
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Default Hi

The screws in the manual for the diff are either 6 or 8mm, the manual states to use 10mm. Ae have put the wrong screws it the kit. Use the right 10mm length screws and it won't leak.
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  #9  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
AmiSMB AmiSMB is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daz75 View Post
Have you got links to the aluminium ones you mention AmiSMB?
It is shown on the AE website here as 91781 and was available at MB Models until I purchased the last one they had in stock. I am sure if you search for 91781 you may find other places that have it in stock.
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Schumacher KC, KD, CAT XLS, CAT L1 | Team C TM2 V2, TM4, TC02 | JQ The Car | Mugen MBX6 | Losi 8T,8BE 1.5 | Durango DEX-410V4 | FTX Blaze | XRAY M18T | Kyosho STR,Surf Dude,Nexus 30 | Nimrif Makara | MFA Spear | She Devil | T-Rex 450SEV2,250SE | Ark X-400 | Protech Butterfly,Zoom 400 | Ikarus Piccolo | VW T4 | Smart 450 | KC-250 | BoltRC Kraken 5" | Emax Nighthawk 250 | Gravity 250 | S550 | Prusa i3 | TronXY X5A | Must stop collecting stuff!
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  #10  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
AmiSMB AmiSMB is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thrasher321 View Post
The screws in the manual for the diff are either 6 or 8mm, the manual states to use 10mm. Ae have put the wrong screws it the kit. Use the right 10mm length screws and it won't leak.
No offence but right screws or not if I find that the mating face of plastic is no longer flat then there will not be a proper seal against the gasket no matter what length of screw is used and as I said if they get over tightened then it makes the issue worse as the surface gets more deformed. My screws were 10mm The only other thing I could have done is used some blue hylomar gasket seal of either side of the gasket to make up for the non flat surface.

This was only one small issue which I used engineering principals to find out why it was happening and then decided on getting the aluminium option part to solve the problem. The car was really good to drive and put a smile on my face and I felt it was much easier to drive than some of the other brands of 2wd that I have driven to date and that is what is important here.
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Schumacher KC, KD, CAT XLS, CAT L1 | Team C TM2 V2, TM4, TC02 | JQ The Car | Mugen MBX6 | Losi 8T,8BE 1.5 | Durango DEX-410V4 | FTX Blaze | XRAY M18T | Kyosho STR,Surf Dude,Nexus 30 | Nimrif Makara | MFA Spear | She Devil | T-Rex 450SEV2,250SE | Ark X-400 | Protech Butterfly,Zoom 400 | Ikarus Piccolo | VW T4 | Smart 450 | KC-250 | BoltRC Kraken 5" | Emax Nighthawk 250 | Gravity 250 | S550 | Prusa i3 | TronXY X5A | Must stop collecting stuff!

Last edited by AmiSMB; 3 Weeks Ago at 06:35 PM.
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  #11  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
daz75 daz75 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmiSMB View Post
It is shown on the AE website here as 91781 and was available at MB Models until I purchased the last one they had in stock. I am sure if you search for 91781 you may find other places that have it in stock.
Thanks
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