FrSky 2.4Ghz conversions - a how to

[DCM]

modules are easy to fit, aerials from giantshark?

[neallewis]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

So firstly where can i get spare aerials?

Secondly the dht thats available, how different s job is it compared to the older one? Im tempted to fit it into my 3gr futaba 40mhz

Spares: http://www.t9hobbysport.com/default....5&SubCatID=238

2db antenna is the standard one: http://www.t9hobbysport.com/item.asp...238&prodid=784

it's basically the same procedure as this thread, you just have to remove the toggle switch as I described above on the DHT module.

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by neallewis

Yes just remove the toggle switch and solder it permanently in the 1-way/V8R4 compatible position. no need for the other/telemetry option here.

Ok so the DHT has a silver switch that has three wires, first is yellow listed as 1 way, black 2 way and third is green listed as FW. Which ones do i solder together and which do i ignore. Or would it be simpler to unhook the cable and solder a short wire there?

Now on to the sanwa gemini exerd, im lost on where to solder it in but did manage to fit the DHT module under the crystal section just below the aerisl mount, its tight but fits and reckon the bind switch can be double side taped to the crystal area so no extra holes required in the casing.

[neallewis]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

Ok so the DHT has a silver switch that has three wires, first is yellow listed as 1 way, black 2 way and third is green listed as FW. Which ones do i solder together and which do i ignore. Or would it be simpler to unhook the cable and solder a short wire there?

Now on to the sanwa gemini exerd, im lost on where to solder it in but did manage to fit the DHT module under the crystal section just below the aerisl mount, its tight but fits and reckon the bind switch can be double side taped to the crystal area so no extra holes required in the casing.

Short green and black, or the equivalent pins on the reverse of the circuit board where the connector solders.

when you move the switch to the 1way/yellow position, you are actually shorting the green and black wires within the switch.

Can't help you with where the +,- and PPM leads solder inside the gemini, as I've no seen one inside, or got one to look. look at where the original module connects, determine which pin is which, and follow where the circuit goes on the PCB. I don't know what modules the sanwa takes, but maybe this pin refernce for other brands might help: http://www.frsky-rc.com/uploadfile/2...3190156120.pdf

[Welshy40]

No modules in the Gemini, and Steve you should know what a Sanwa Gemini Exerd is as I used it for ten years. Pics attached of the in-nerds and I admit I can design an RC buggy but have no idea on things like this so apologies for asking so many questions but I really have no idea.

First pic is the controller upside down for some reason but you can see that control settings were done via a screw driver ad thats why I liked this, simple to use. The second picture is the board behind the control setting panel. Third is the little circuit board above the steering control stick. Fourth is the throttle control stick. Fifth is the circuit board under the throttle stick. Sixth is the main central board that sits in the middle between the sticks with crystal board. Seventh is the other side of the board. Eighth is just an overview to get a better idea. The DHT module can fit on the circuit board under neath the throttle stick and I believe I can fit the bind button in the hole for the crystal.

Question is where do I solder the module to on here?

[Freakypen]

Hi has anyone worked out on the V8R7-2 or v8FR-2 receiver which aerial is the telemetry one? Having 2 aerials just looks messy. If I find out I'll just cut it off. 50/50 chance but knowing my luck......!

[Great_Thark]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

No modules in the Gemini, and Steve you should know what a Sanwa Gemini Exerd is as I used it for ten years. Pics attached of the in-nerds and I admit I can design an RC buggy but have no idea on things like this so apologies for asking so many questions but I really have no idea.

First pic is the controller upside down for some reason but you can see that control settings were done via a screw driver ad thats why I liked this, simple to use. The second picture is the board behind the control setting panel. Third is the little circuit board above the steering control stick. Fourth is the throttle control stick. Fifth is the circuit board under the throttle stick. Sixth is the main central board that sits in the middle between the sticks with crystal board. Seventh is the other side of the board. Eighth is just an overview to get a better idea. The DHT module can fit on the circuit board under neath the throttle stick and I believe I can fit the bind button in the hole for the crystal.

Question is where do I solder the module to on here?

did you ever figure this out? I know how but havent got time to write the explanation right at this moment, especially if you already have it figured out

[Great_Thark]

First off big disclaimer. I haven't actually fitted the Frsky to the Exerd, I was going to so got the scope out to identify the pins then didn't bother as I bought something pretty instead.
SO THIS IS AT YOUR RISK

I am presuming the Frsky takes non inverted PPM signals.

This is the quick and easy method that preserves power LED and Battery meter without a lot of work, It might be a bit tight in there without removing the tx board though.

In the picture below the 0V, +V and PPM points are marked to solder your 3 wires

Once you have it working it's probably worth cutting the 2 tracks marked cut, this will remove power to the existing transmitter, saving your batteries.

[Welshy40]

Originally Posted by Great_Thark

did you ever figure this out? I know how but havent got time to write the explanation right at this moment, especially if you already have it figured out

No, still sitting on my desk unscrewed.

[Great_Thark]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

No, still sitting on my desk unscrewed.

See above :-)

[Welshy40]

Just tried it without cutting as my battery pack is rather powerful so not bothered about excess power loss, however it wont bind with my receiver at all. Mind you its a V8R4-2 if thats of any use

[Welshy40]

Ok i made a cock up and soldered the wrong two wires (green & black) together so done and rectified. I need to tidy up a bit but has now binded and works so cheers.

Well after saying that the thing doesnt work now so am puzzled dot com.

[Welshy40]

Ok i think the issue is the way ive soldered it, i ended up taking the wires off and redoing plus moved the aerial wire so it wasnt touching anything metal and appears to work but havent tried it properly.

Ive just bought another exerd for £5.50 that im having for spares just in case. Ive done a picture of installed and will upload. Picture shows the bind button thru the crystal section which needs trimming the back case inside but as the circuit board is so close make sure electrical tape is used on the big board and double side the bind board to that.

However i ended up feeding the wire on the other side of the battery box as i thought id shorted it by placing it over the crystal holder, but now doubt it. I had taped to the inner side of the side sections as the button and light portrudes through with easy access but the battery cannot hit it as its protected by the two side secrions. Hope i make sense.

[Welshy40]

Here is the picture. Module has been put in with the plug section on the left and is at an angle infront of the circuit board and sits under the aerial. The aerial is sitting ontop and then ive diverted into the wire divider sections and this avoids the aerial touching any metal.

I drilled all the way through on the aerial hole but fits snuggly, however is a bit tricky to do the inner nut to stop play but once you have the right amount it fits really well.

I also bought a battery from Hobby stores and was a bit expensive but is one that holds its power, and fits perfectly, howvwer if you do this make sure you move the wires around to avoid a short as the futaba connectors are wired differently on the batteries compared to the Sanwa design.

[Great_Thark]

Glad to hear its working. I had intended to take the transmitter board out of mine and transfer the couple of parts needed to a small vero board to make some space. but that's a little more complicated and I didnt want to confuse things

[Welshy40]

Ok another issue thats got me stumped. Ive move my esc and receiver and now the receiver doesnt work yet when i connect to my futaba 40mhz unit it does. Ive tried three recievers and all are the same so what am i doing wrong?

[Welshy40]

Ok thanks to Andy advising me id put the futaba connectors on upside down, now all is working perfectly again. Guys thanks for your advice and help.

[Dave Dodd]

finally got round to fitting one of these, the hardest part was drilling the holes for the binding board, to make it look neat and tidy. tested at last nights club meeting and works a treat, with no huge aerial

[janus_77]

Ok, sorry but it's "stupid question" time.

I've seen converted KO Esprit 3 transmitters, but is it really necessary ?

If I'm correct the Spectrum SM1001 works on a KO Esprit III, and also it apparently also works in a Futaba 3PK transmitter.

So is it needed to really convert a KO transmitter or has anyone tried ( or is it worth a try ) to use a FRSky Futaba combo on a KO Esprit III ?

(or maybe even slap in a complete original Futaba module )

[Kusal]

I have a 3VC with a FrySky module (not the hack) in and will be next Saturday at the GP; you can try if it fits if you want to (but I think it will)?