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#21
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its the movement between a set of meshed gears.
if they are tight up against each other, there is no backlash, if there is a gap, you can hold one gear and the other will have some movement, this is backlash. applies to bevel and regular pinion/spur type gears |
#22
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Where are you guys buying the light weight slipper halfs and the outdrive halfs? It still shows "coming soon" on Edits site. I'm in the U.S. and would like to get some of these.
Thanks, Chris |
#23
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attention to hot bodies and Mr Skelding
just got my d4 off rich on sat and used the astro turf set up on it from pettit rc WHAT A KIT and the set up was bang on u Guy s rule love it big time the cart handles like a treat even though i had the wrong tyre s and springs on it was mint totally converted to d4 cyclone (was trying it get a b44) pleased i didd nt going to spend some more dosh on the up grades for this as it can only get better thanks guys KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
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#24
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Are you also coming out with those carbon gearbox things??
__________________
|HB Cyclone D4| |Team Associated B4 FT| |
#25
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Could somebody help me PLEASE??????
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#26
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trying to find these too for my d4 anyone got any pointers
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#27
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Any local hobby shop that distributes mirage products should be able to get you some. Try Marc @ www.m-k-racing.com he should be able to help you out.
hope this helps |
#28
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thanks man will give him a call
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#29
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EDIT Slipper Hubs and the new externally adj. Slipper
Does anyone know if the EDIT lightweight slipper hubs will fit on the new externally adjustable slipper?
If not - Aaron - you planning on releasing a set for the new slipper? |
#30
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Mmmm, I don't think the current ones do, but I can have a look this week when I build my Worlds slipper, that is unless Adam answers you first
Also looking forward to getting my Edit ali diffs and ceramic balls this week G
__________________
Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
#31
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Quote:
Keep your Eye's peeled for an edit version.!!! Aaron must be the voice in my head!!!! I'm going crazy.
__________________
5 Time Oople Invernational SC Champion. Powered by OptiPower Do, or do not, there is no try! |
#32
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Sorry - yes I meant Adam not Aaron. Fingers are too quick on this keyboard!
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#33
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Quote:
Also I would need some help: I got the lightweight differential outputs and fixed my diffs using the updated silver screw exactly as the manual describes (also checked the additional leaflet that came with the screws - other way around than the kits one) and used the diff cup joint adapters on the driveshafts cutted 0.5mm again as the small leaflet included described. Why my suspension could not work all the way up both in the front and rear at the opposite side of the screws of the diff. The other side where the diff screw head is was almost 100% clear. I trimmed the problematic side's diff cup joint adapters even more and raced the car. It looked fine but while rebuilding I checked the parts and had been in a lot of contact with the inner parts of the diff. It is quite difficult to understand but if you do not, I can upload some pics to see more clearly. Any ideas? Also can you give me any advice on how to fill in the suspension with oil and make it work without any rebound and airfree? I've tried a lot of different variations but cannot make them work as I want. Is this the only reason they came up with the new suspension idea? |
#34
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I take it you mean that the driveshaft blades rub on the nut side of the diff?
If so mine does the same. It limits the travel when the blades are upright. Thus causing the suspension to bounce when cornering. Any ideas Adam other than just trimming the blades more? |
#35
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Yes you are right telboy, have you recently checked yours?
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#36
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Basically when I put the blades on I trim/dremel the blade while it is assembled to the d/shaft. I trim/dremel it until the suspension has full travel.
As there is quite a lot of compounding of tolerances when the car's are put together, no two cars are completely the same, so you have to trim the blade to suit your car. The 0.5mm in the instructions is a guide to how much you need to remove. As the 61333 blade is designed really for use in TC you have to modify it. Done right, my blades lasted from Stotfold National to York Indoor regional. A little time spent on getting the blade done spot on when you build them is well worth the effort.
__________________
5 Time Oople Invernational SC Champion. Powered by OptiPower Do, or do not, there is no try! |
#37
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are EDIT parts available in the US or anywhere else outside of Europe?
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