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  #1  
Old 03-06-2014
Bayareabasher Bayareabasher is offline
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Default dex410v4 options help.

So im going to take my sweet time on this project and wanted to know my options. So 1st off Does anyone know if the jconcepts rulux will fit the dex410v4? For motor/esc im going for speed passion reventon pro 1.1 v3 with 3.0 7.5r motor is this any good for jumps on the ramp? And lastly what are some good batteries?
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  #2  
Old 03-06-2014
Bayareabasher Bayareabasher is offline
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Yay it came in today!! Time to get started. I cant seem to post pics.
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  #3  
Old 04-06-2014
mattr mattr is offline
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I've got the Rev Pro V1.1 and a thunderpower 8.5t motor, with a bit of boost and turbo, its mental quick. Will keep up with just about anything else on the track.
And for batteries, either gens ace or hobbyking nanotechs, both reasonably priced and reasonable/good performance

Not sure what you mean by "jumps on the ramp"?
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Old 04-06-2014
mattr mattr is offline
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And you need 14mm hex wheels, so i don't think rulux will fit.
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  #5  
Old 04-06-2014
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You could fit Rulux wheels on it if you get a set of the smaller hexes for the front, I guess TD still sell them and it's pretty easy to convert the rear to pin drive, the V3 came with the gold cone spacers to do that, not sure if it's still in the V4 box.

Thing is, the Rulux wheels are a different offset on the front & make the car drive odd compared to std offset wheels, but then if they were the only wheels you used, you'd never know the difference.
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  #6  
Old 04-06-2014
Bayareabasher Bayareabasher is offline
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Sweet thanks for the help guys! i guess rulux is a no go. And also what pinions should i start with? And i meant jumps on the track i edited it but didnt go thru i guess. And can someone enlighten me on boost/ turbo?
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  #7  
Old 04-06-2014
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There is a good post on here somewhere but try this for now
Instead of changing the gearing we are changing the rpms of the motor. As we add timing to increase rpms we loose torque. So we use lower timing during the launch where we need torque and add more timing as we accelerate and shift to second gear, and even more timing at top speed where the toque load is low and we want the extra rpms. If you add too much timing too soon it is like shifting half way up the tach in a real car only instead of bogging we just pull the power to get it done and make a lot of heat due to the inefficiency.

The heat effects are exponential as you pass the sweet spot. A few degrees of timing or turbo kicking in barely too soon can cause temps to increase significantly, but go fast for the first few minutes.

Motor Timing: Launch

Motor timing is an absolute. It’s effective throughout the entire range of the cars speed. This is the adjustment that should be made for the first few feet of car travel. It should not be forgotten in the “overall” timing calculation. Less motor timing gives you more torque and less rpm, more motor timing gives less torque and more rpm. With the additional advantages of mechanical gearing we can get a little of both worlds The additional timing we add above the motor timing as the motor spools up allows us to get the rpms for top speed without losing the extra torque at low speeds.

Timing Boost: Acceleration

Timing boost occurs after the car has travelled a short distance and has met a certain rpm. This setting should be adjusted for use in the infield sections and the majority of the track. This is along with motor timing is your midrange setting. This is a very critical setup as it can determine how much speed is carried onto the straight away, how much punch you have in the infield sections, etc.

Overall Timing Calculation: Motor Timing + Timing Boost = Overall timing

For the majority of spec motor racing you don’t want to exceed 30 degrees of overall timing. Spinning the motor to the highest limits is not the best answer for lap times. Remember that we race r/c cars, not dynos! Set your cars up to get the best lap times!

Timing boost is the acceleration

Turbo Timing: Top speed

Turbo timing is timing on top of Motor Timing and Turbo Timing. This is effectively used on longer straight away sections where lower gearing and timing settings that give you the edge for the infield sections isn’t the ideal setting for the straight away. This gives you the best of both worlds. You have a fast car/setup for the infield sections but will not give up the top speed on the longer sections. The optimal time for the turbo timing to come on is the apex or 10-20 feet past the apex leading onto the straight away.
Ideally you want your car to begin spooling out a bit, but not flattening out the acceleration curve. Imagine a real car; you’d want turbo to come on right where you’d be shifting into 2nd gear. If this comes on too soon, motor damage can be the result it just creates a lot of heat. This will show up initially as motor heat, cogging (should never cog in any condition, slow or hot maybe but never actually run rough. Then again if timing is advanced to the point of actually being in the next phase and we are not rotating fast enough to coast thru it we could be rough. I still hate to even say that term), etc.


Ideal Setups:

There isn’t a “magic” setup for any motor or wind. Each track, each driver and each setup will differ slightly. I recommend setting up your cars Motor and Timing Boost along with gearing for the infield sections initially. Then once you’ve gotten that setup correctly and lap times in those sections are on then you move forward with Turbo Timing. Delay is critical. Too soon will get you excessive motor heat, too late and the car will stop accelerating efficiently.
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  #8  
Old 04-06-2014
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OneKiwi OneKiwi is offline
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Slowone posted this:

You need to be as thick as me to understand this...

Operation mode - if that's not obvious, take up tiddly winks!
Initial brake - how much brake is applied as soon as you pull the stick back. Think of like yanking on the handbrake on your car. The higher the percentage, the harder you've pulled the handbrake.
Brake strength - how much brake is ultimately applied. At 50% you get half the braking force of 100%. Useful if you want to stop wheels locking up on slippery surfaces. Otherwise, use your finger/thumb to set the amount of brake by pulling the stick less.
Voltage cut-off - see the first comment! My advice is 3.0v per cell.
Punch profile - the opposite of Initial Brake - how much throttle you get when you lift the stick/pull the trigger. Higher numbers, more initial throttle and faster ramp-up of the speed. Lower numbers for Mod, higher numbers for Stock.
Neutral deadband - don't worry what it is, just know that Futaba and Sanwa radios work fine on 5%, everything else 8%.
Right, here's the difficult bit - boost and turbo.
Boost - this is the amount of timing that is added to the motor as it revs up. You choose an amount you want and then tell it how you want it to come in. An example...
I want a total of 30 deg boost to start coming in at 2000rpm (Boost timing rpm) and add it at the rate of one degree every 100 revs (Boost timing ACC - 100rpm/deg)
Turbo - this is what is added to the motor once it is flat out. Select an amount (Turbo timing) the delay before it comes in (Turbo delay) and how fast it comes in (Turbo slope)
Drive and brake frequency - leave them alone. Too complicated for most of us!

This is a personal view that has served me well...

If you are running Modified motors leave it all alone. Set the boost timing and turbo timing to zero. If the car isn't fast enough, put in a faster motor. This is essential in Off Road as getting over jumps is about instant power, and boost is power that grows with revs. That means if you arrive at too slow a speed then the car doesn't accelerate enough to clear the jump. If you can make a TC National A Final in Mod then you will already be using boost!

If you are running a stock motor then ignore the turbo and focus on the boost. This is very controllable, whereas the turbo can chime in when you don't want it. No BL motor will take more than 60 degrees of timing. Set the mechanical timing on the motor to zero on its scale. Now add in 40 degrees of 'boost timing' at a 'boost timing ACC' of 150rpm/deg with a start rpm of (boost timing rpm) of 5000revs (for a 2S car, halve the number for a 1S car).

This will mean the car comes out of a corner, get to 5000 rpm and then has timing added at the rate of 1 degree every 150 rpm until it reaches 11000 rpm when all 40 degrees have been added. The motor continues to accelerate until it is flat out.

Gearing must be a lot lower if you use a lot of boost. The more 'boost timing' you add, the lower the gearing. The faster you put the timing in (boost timing ACC) the faster it will accelerate but you can go too far and then the motor will get very hot! The lower the revs you set for the 'boost timing rpm' the earlier it will start to accelerate. This is the setting that can cause the most damage to the motor.

Ideally you want to add about 50 degrees from about 6000 rpm up to about 25000 rpm for a typical buggy or TC. I hope that helps, but if not I will take questions!
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  #9  
Old 04-06-2014
Bayareabasher Bayareabasher is offline
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Holy crap i have alot to learn. Thank you so much onekiwi! Im kinda getting it. I guess when i get my esc/ motor i can get more of a feel of all this. And sorry in avanced for asking question kiwi.
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  #10  
Old 05-06-2014
Bayareabasher Bayareabasher is offline
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Is ae 10k in the rear and 5k in the front diff ok? The rear is basically locked. I also have the diff oil that came with my old dex410r.
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  #11  
Old 05-06-2014
mattr mattr is offline
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Think I'm running 7 front and 3 rear.
General rule of thumb is higher weight in the front. (Or it won't go round corners)

Have you download some set ups from the td site or petitrc yet?
They'll give you a good idea of where to start with your car.
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  #12  
Old 06-06-2014
Bayareabasher Bayareabasher is offline
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Nope. Didnt even know they had setups. Ima check it out.
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  #13  
Old 06-06-2014
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PaulFarrand PaulFarrand is offline
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I run 7000 all round and it seems to be a good setup for most tracks indoor/outdoor....only my 2p worth tho..
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