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  #21  
Old 10-02-2008
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Adam Skelding Adam Skelding is offline
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The only way the upper deck doesn;t line up is if after you glue the edges, you then don't sand or remove the glue from the fore and aftmost edges where it slots into the slipper mount and gearbox locations.

Having built 3 in 2 days recently, I can honestly say. Not one bit didn't fall into place...
The dremel file or 'force' were never used....
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  #22  
Old 10-02-2008
Ryantothec Ryantothec is offline
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I did'nt even put glue on...

I used Z-42 Thread Lock and they were backing out... I'm just gonna go to A Red Permanent... (I get free parts) if i ever need to replace it...


Also, I was using losi wheels all around and all the wheel nuts were backing off after a minute or two of running...I brought it back to the pits and one of the wheels fell off. Two times the wheel pins in the rear just flew off when i was running... This sucks because most of my wheel stock is losi.
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  #23  
Old 11-02-2008
dan_kitty dan_kitty is offline
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ive never found the driveshaft pins to come off mine, but i did find that my good hex driver couldn't get to the grub screw properly and tighten, it was too thick and rigid (urgh). using a smaller allen type one worked a treat.

hope that helps someone
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  #24  
Old 23-02-2008
Ryantothec Ryantothec is offline
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I'm gettin way better with the car, everytime I drive it and work on It!
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  #25  
Old 13-11-2008
dan_kitty dan_kitty is offline
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Hi, im after more steering (indoors), but still want the car to have a responsive feel so i dont want to soften the front too much

im guessing going to the lower castor setting?

or should i be leaving it on 10 degrees and adjusting other things?

thanks
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  #26  
Old 13-11-2008
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Depending on where you are wanting the steering.

Going in to the corner
- Reduce Castor to 7 Degrees
- Lower the inner Ballstud
- Raise the Outer Ballstud
- Add a touch of Toe-out.

Coming out of the Corner
- Increase Castor
- Tighter front diff
- Reduce front droop

You don't have to soften the car off. Softening it off can make the car roll more and transfer less weight to the outside wheel.

It's a balancing act...
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  #27  
Old 13-11-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Skelding View Post
Depending on where you are wanting the steering.

Going in to the corner
- Reduce Castor to 7 Degrees
- Lower the inner Ballstud
- Raise the Outer Ballstud
- Add a touch of Toe-out.

Coming out of the Corner
- Increase Castor
- Tighter front diff
- Reduce front droop

You don't have to soften the car off. Softening it off can make the car roll more and transfer less weight to the outside wheel.

It's a balancing act...
i wanted more going in and raised the out ball stud and added toe out (was slight in) and got the steering i was after,
as adam said i left the springs and damping, but my teacher is the above poster
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  #28  
Old 13-11-2008
dan_kitty dan_kitty is offline
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cheers for the advice,

mid to exit steering is what im after, i think anyway...so ill leave caster at 10
it seems like the car is going a little wide on power through the corner,

by reducing the droop, would that be adding some limiters inside the front shocks, if so should I balance the rear with the same amount?

ta
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  #29  
Old 13-11-2008
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you need a washer under the wheel nut if you are using losi wheels.

The losi wheel is thiner in the boss area so the nut bottoms out on the sholder and does not tighten the wheel enough.

You will also strip the hex if you do not use a washer under the nut.

Phill Truman
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  #30  
Old 13-11-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan_kitty View Post
cheers for the advice,

mid to exit steering is what im after, i think anyway...so ill leave caster at 10
it seems like the car is going a little wide on power through the corner,

by reducing the droop, would that be adding some limiters inside the front shocks, if so should I balance the rear with the same amount?

ta
Reducing droop can be done either by screwing in the ball end on the shock or by adding some limiters inside the shocks. Always measure between the top of the ball cup and the bottom of the shock to gauge your shock length. It's easiest and most consistent.

As for the rear. No need to alter the rear droop. Unless your car is pitching forward too much under braking. Also, depending how bumpy the track is, you may need droop.
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  #31  
Old 14-11-2008
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To get more steering you have also the option to tighten the rear diff a bit.

Had the same issue last weekend and this improved the steering on corner exit on throttle and the back of the car just follows your steering nicely.

This will make a different effect depending on the traction of the track!

Also I would not suggest the 7 degree caster blocks, 10 is perfect together with very little toe out!
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  #32  
Old 17-01-2009
Cameo Cameo is offline
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Question

I have a question about Ball stud position and camber link length
1. Why are people working so hard to lower the inside ball stud height and raise the outer?
2. I see some use the short rear camber link and some use the long so why do you use either one.
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  #33  
Old 28-02-2009
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Hi all.

In 2 weeks finally I'm going to run with my D4 WCE in the new circuit of Bilbo's Club Carbi (The 2009 Euro Circuit) and I would like to know if anyone have a good setup for running over Astroturf?.

Regards.
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  #34  
Old 26-06-2009
Fatal1ty Fatal1ty is offline
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Hi all,

In a Setup of Adam Skelding stand "Piston: 3x #55 and 3x #56". What does that mean? I only know the 1-3 Pistons uf HotBodies.

thanks!
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  #35  
Old 26-06-2009
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they refer to losi piston sizes, IE drill bit sizes,see attachment bellow
Attached Files
File Type: doc Losi pistons are in.doc (31.0 KB, 15 views)
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  #36  
Old 20-08-2009
mark79 mark79 is offline
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Default Indoor slippy set up

I'll be driving indoors on a medium/slippy surface which'll be tight also.

I've sussed out tires but i'm not sure where would be a good place to start in terms of set-up. Can anyone point me in the right direction please

Thanks
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  #37  
Old 26-12-2009
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I got my D4 2nd hand and Im a complete noob...worse, an old noob!

I can sort of understand the things some of you guys recommend to get better steering, mines has a very wide turning circle and could do with a lot less understeer.

I've downloaded the setup sheets but have no idea where to start as a baseline, I dont think the buggy is set up right when the understeer is as mad as mines is! The transmission feels/sounds fine and it will whack off down the track dead straight, no wandering and plenty of power.

Its just the steering for me?
I'de be happy to have a working point to start from, the I can change things and log them on the startup sheet, and know rather than guess where I am and where we are going with the adjustments.

Didnt get a manual, having to work off the parts diagram and reviews of the buggy.
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  #38  
Old 27-12-2009
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make sure you have a good steering servo, and the servo saver is not loose, it needs to be tighter then the manuals setting,
they do understeer, one of its traits
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  #39  
Old 27-12-2009
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Manual download from here: http://www.hbeurope.com/manuals/61410.pdf

other gumph that may be interesting:
http://www.hbeurope.com/kit.php?partNo=61410&lang=en

setup wise I would think BJ4,s or B44's would be very close, D4's and B44's being a bit BJ4ish.
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