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  #21  
Old 30-01-2013
Mossy Mossy is offline
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Sundays setup guys, any questions let me know!
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  #22  
Old 30-01-2013
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Hi simon

Are they core springs?
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  #23  
Old 31-01-2013
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Default hmmmm

I have been running the K1 is standard trim for a few meetings now. decided sunday at Torch, needed to start "adjusting/changing" things.
Mr Saddler, the most awsome dude surgested putting the rear end on the higer setting holes. did this. was unsure of the result 1st round after the change but have to say it worked for a bumpy track(torch), will go back to the lower settings for SHRCCC as a little smoother and its awsome there.
I also, added what a few people questioned as a LOT of under lipos weight. 110grams. The track was VERY wet, and i have to say made the car corner, grip and jump SOOOO much better. Well it did for me.

Yes it was alot of weight as a 1st try but the car was so much more stable and jumped perfectly. that i will be keeping the huge weight for the wet, maybe half that for the dry to start, but not had any track time in the dry as yet to try it(love the UK weather).
So, anyone struggling with jump/grip/handling, try some heavy weight(i use lead) under the pipos. you might like it..............
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  #24  
Old 31-01-2013
Mossy Mossy is offline
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Yeah Core Rc springs
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  #25  
Old 31-01-2013
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And big bore shocks
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  #26  
Old 31-01-2013
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Hi Simon ,
Regarding the anti squat, I'm not sure what the setup sheet is showing with the alloy block settings ...... So front high, rear low, but then lower the front by 1.5mm with the shims. Is my understanding correct?
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  #27  
Old 31-01-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrispattinson View Post
Hi Simon ,
Regarding the anti squat, I'm not sure what the setup sheet is showing with the alloy block settings ...... So front high, rear low, but then lower the front by 1.5mm with the shims. Is my understanding correct?
Think i can make out 3mm at the front none at the rear
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  #28  
Old 31-01-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmgreen View Post
Think i can make out 3mm at the front none at the rear
Yeah, I see that, but in the difference table it appears to read 1.5mm? The problem may be I don't understand how to read the setup sheet properly.
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  #29  
Old 31-01-2013
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Unless the 3mm compensates for the front block being mounted in the 'high' position? If that's the case, what would be the advantage of running high front and low rear if the spacers are used to make the anti-squat the same anyway?

Even more confusing that the table itself tells you overall rear toe and not anti-squat too!
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  #30  
Old 31-01-2013
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If you want to get the rear pin higher you will sometime hit the point when you can┤t remove more washers.That will most likely happen in the front,so you put that one hole higher.As you want a short stack for bending reasons you leave the rear in the lower hole.


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  #31  
Old 31-01-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Twigger View Post

Even more confusing that the table itself tells you overall rear toe and not anti-squat too!
Glad it's not just me Andy.
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  #32  
Old 31-01-2013
Mossy Mossy is offline
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I run the pin high front/ low rear combination because i feel for me it gives me the most balance on the car. I find running pin high all rounds means the car rotates through the corner too much and pin low means loss of forward traction again in my opinion. This is something i ran on my SX3 and when testing put on my K1 and it made a big difference.

What you have to remember is that if you dont space the front block down when running this combination, you would technically be running 4mm worth of anti squat as the difference in hole height is 4mm. I space the front pin down by 2.5mm, therefore giving a an overall antisquat of 1.5mm, hence 1.95 degrees of squat. The calculation is worked out the same for toe in and antisquat, its just a typo on the setup sheet. Ralf's point of having to run this configuration is not correct, its just personal preference for me.

And yes I am running big bores at the moment.

Hope this helps!
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  #33  
Old 01-02-2013
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Thanks Simon, it's good to get a bit of logic behind the setups. I'll give this setup a try on Sunday.
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  #34  
Old 12-03-2013
Cockerill Cockerill is offline
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My recent setups have been posted on Petit RC (http://www.petitrc.com/setup/schumac...cherCatK1.html)

Worksop setup is here: http://www.petitrc.com/setup/schumac...rksop20130310/
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  #35  
Old 16-03-2013
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Default camber link options rear

Hello all,

I was wondering if anyone can tell me if the following part would fit on a K1

U3529 (a conversion for the SX)

If it fits it would give more rear camber link options instead of buying 3 different rear plates.

Greetings

Hans
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  #36  
Old 17-03-2013
ulrich ulrich is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hansie View Post
Hello all,

I was wondering if anyone can tell me if the following part would fit on a K1

U3529 (a conversion for the SX)

If it fits it would give more rear camber link options instead of buying 3 different rear plates.

Greetings

Hans
This part dosen┤t fit on the K1. If you want the options you have to buy two parts U4169 & U4170, the third is standard in kit.
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  #37  
Old 22-03-2013
hansie hansie is offline
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Hello,

Thanks for the reply, I will get the K1 parts then.

Greetings

Hans
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  #38  
Old 22-03-2013
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can anyone tell me the size of holes for the stock pistons? I am getting a 2nd hand K1 and for the life of me cannot find this info anywhere. Thanks. Also any pointers to useful upgrades will be appreciated.
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  #39  
Old 22-03-2013
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1.5mm
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  #40  
Old 22-03-2013
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The kit black pistons in the K1 are 1.3mm

Ive found the U3404 Alloy Yoke 7.5deg and U4160 Rear Alloy Block Conversion Set are usefull upgrade

Mat
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