Tlr 22 rear traction and chassis configuration

[adey]

Hi all, I bought a used 22 off the for sale section here and want some advice off you guys here. I run it on carpet with yellow pins and just can't seem to get good rear traction. After no end of top link, spring and oil adjustments I added weight in the form of the the brass plate under the lipo and 45g to the back of the car and it was much better but still had a slight tendency to steer with the rear a bit. I am a experienced racer and I understand how to set up a car but I just can't seem to get it right. Also a few people I have spoke suggest the car is very good in rear motor configuration and it maybe worth a try. Suggestions please.

[Frecklychimp]

Are you running minipins up front as well?

If so they will be giving far too much grip on a 22 and not helping the back end.

Shouldn't need any rear weight on grippy carpet, but i always have 80g under lipos.

what camber link settings are you running, also shims under ball studs?

how much camber do you have all round?

what castor blocks/shim do you have fitted?

ride height?

shock oil weights/pistons/springs?

[adey]

Mini pins all round, 1 degree camber all round, yellow rear springs and blue front. Kit pistons with 35 wt front and 27.5 rear, hrc blocks, shocks mounted on middle hole on tower and outer hole on wishbone at the front and inner hole on wishbone at the rear. Camber links are on outer hole with 2mm washers front and rear

[Frecklychimp]

Try this:

Firstly and i think the main issue tbh... try yellow slim stagger ribs on front, if they are not enough then try yellow cut staggers... too much grip on a car with bags of steering will cause rear end to pivot too quickly and break traction

5deg Castor blocks with flat kick up shim

Front shocks i run middle wishbone hole but same on other mountings

I can't remember which pistons are fitted as kit because i've stuck GurnellRC tapers since trying them... but would go for the pistons with biggest holes indoors... your oils are about right for kit pistons tbh

I would also fit the kit LRC 4deg brace, with 2.5 antisquat shims

1mm washers under inner ball studs, 2mm outer and rear hub ballstuds fitted to 'B'

Wouldn't run car any higher than 18mm chassis to floor, 16mm usually depending on jumps/obstacles on track

try -2 deg Camber on rear, -1 on front

rear weight will make car slow to react to steering and pendulum more on high grip tracks

Best advice... try these things but one at a time... start with tyres, camber and ride height. tbh, i found minipins on front to be far too much on carpet

hope this helps

[Robby]

Originally Posted by adey

Mini pins all round, 1 degree camber all round, yellow rear springs and blue front. Kit pistons with 35 wt front and 27.5 rear, hrc blocks, shocks mounted on middle hole on tower and outer hole on wishbone at the front and inner hole on wishbone at the rear. Camber links are on outer hole with 2mm washers front and rear

Too much front tyre.

[Jaune]

Same here, minipins needs to be very worn to work well up front. As mentioned staggered or cut staggered will fix that.

[adey]

Move the front camber link to inner hole and it's helped a lot

[TKG26]

yep too much front tire, i could never get any pin front to work for me... IT required way to much pin snipping or setup change to get them to work..

Nothing better then installing new front and rear tires at the same time and have grip and balance at both ends. Only with front staggars and pin rears. Pin all around and way to much steering


I MISS CARPET!!