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  #321  
Old 28-03-2012
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Some useful info here

Is anyone using a brass bulkhead in addition to the servo and under speedo weights ?
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  #322  
Old 20-06-2012
BeachBuggyPhil BeachBuggyPhil is offline
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Hi
Could someone point me in the direction of a good base setup for an X6 for grass please.
I copied the Ellis setup and it felt good but noticed its dated 2009 and I wondered if there is a more current one.
I unfortunately snapped the screw that goes through my diff to set the tension twice! I obviously set it to tight but have little experience of ball diffs and didn't want to melt the balls in to the plastic gear inside again from running one to loose(I then switched to gear diffs in my old B4).
I also popped a shock cap so an eventful evening!
Looking forward to getting back out there, it felt pretty close in the short runs I had.
Very happy.
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  #323  
Old 20-06-2012
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Phil that is the one that comes with the kit instructions.Lately "the top guys"have been using the "T Saddle pack" layout and the set up is here for that,look at Big E EPR NAT set up please, a bit further down,thats about it,experiment with some small adjustments from these to suit yourself,were all a little bit different,(different Batts,esc,shells ect)-i`ll give you a hand with your diff if you want??
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  #324  
Old 20-06-2012
BeachBuggyPhil BeachBuggyPhil is offline
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I rebuilt my diff today, I'm more happy with it.
I'll run the setup I've got now, if I beat you I'll stick with it.
If not I'll try the other one.


Shame about this weather, I'd go and do some practising!
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  #325  
Old 01-07-2012
maineyak maineyak is offline
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Hi Guys,

Have only run the X6 for 3 meetings now but I seem to be suffering from oversteer to the point that the car feels really unbalanced and quite unpredictable to drive. I’m guessing this is partly down to building it up in the T config Lipo set-up. To be honest the reason I chose this as opposed to saddle was it was the only way to fit my enormous core receiver in See my car in the ‘show me your X6’ thread last week.

Running only at Coventry which is a high grip, medium bumpy astro track with very worn cut staggers on the front and yellow mini spikes on the rear as per 99% of the competition.

Initial set-up was as per Dan Greenwoods Martime Raceway sheet but I realise he was using a stubby rather than T there but it’s not far of Ellis’ 2012 EPR anyway. Since then in an attempt to reduce steering I’ve taken servo weights out, (only brass bulkhead left) reduced front camber and reduced steering lock but it can still roll it on the slowest of hairpins. I have no confidence at all to push.

If I am to be racing most of the time at Cov would it be a good idea to move to saddles or do you think I should just persevere with set-up changes first? Any suggestions? I'm a smooth, steady driver, rather than have Ellis speed thumbs, and I guess I'm saying if I went back to saddles and added weight to the front (pre T) basically would it be easier to drive? It's not as if I'm at nationals and having to push the X6 to 110% to keep up with the competition.

Thanks in advance.

Last edited by maineyak; 01-07-2012 at 11:02 PM. Reason: re read
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  #326  
Old 02-07-2012
Darren Boyle Darren Boyle is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maineyak View Post
Hi Guys,

Have only run the X6 for 3 meetings now but I seem to be suffering from oversteer to the point that the car feels really unbalanced and quite unpredictable to drive. I’m guessing this is partly down to building it up in the T config Lipo set-up. To be honest the reason I chose this as opposed to saddle was it was the only way to fit my enormous core receiver in See my car in the ‘show me your X6’ thread last week.

Running only at Coventry which is a high grip, medium bumpy astro track with very worn cut staggers on the front and yellow mini spikes on the rear as per 99% of the competition.

Initial set-up was as per Dan Greenwoods Martime Raceway sheet but I realise he was using a stubby rather than T there but it’s not far of Ellis’ 2012 EPR anyway. Since then in an attempt to reduce steering I’ve taken servo weights out, (only brass bulkhead left) reduced front camber and reduced steering lock but it can still roll it on the slowest of hairpins. I have no confidence at all to push.

If I am to be racing most of the time at Cov would it be a good idea to move to saddles or do you think I should just persevere with set-up changes first? Any suggestions? I'm a smooth, steady driver, rather than have Ellis speed thumbs, and I guess I'm saying if I went back to saddles and added weight to the front (pre T) basically would it be easier to drive? It's not as if I'm at nationals and having to push the X6 to 110% to keep up with the competition.

Thanks in advance.
To me it sounds like there is still too much weight up front, since you mention you have taken "out" front weight but still retain a brass bulkhead. This bulkhead could be a lot of your problem since depending on what make you run this will add a LOT of weight over the front wheels. Ellis nor any of the team rarely use a brass bulkhead and at best most of us add only between 10/20 gramm on top of a standard plastic bulkhead.

Also, make sure your diff is nice and smooth too, since it is not unheard of for a diff that is not at its best to make the car do funny things like you describe.

Laslty, if these changes/suggestions are still leaving you with too much front end grip, try running the saddles side by side across the rear where the stick normally goes, that will reduce fthe ront end for sure!!
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  #327  
Old 02-07-2012
Big E Big E is offline
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As Darren said the front bulkhead is only really run indoors, outside the most I normally run is 20-25g on the plastic bulkhead.

Check the ride height is correct as well, with the shell on.

It should be ok though other wise post your full set up and we can check it over.

E.
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  #328  
Old 03-07-2012
maineyak maineyak is offline
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Cheers guys,

Replaced the brass bulkhead last night and checked the ride height and it was running at about 26mm so have reduced to 22mm as per the attached set up sheet. One thing, were exactly are the ride heights measured?

Well I think there is an attachment - hard to tell. Said uploading to oople but can't see it in the preview.
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  #329  
Old 03-07-2012
maineyak maineyak is offline
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Here is it.

Had to convert from a .docx back to a .doc
Attached Files
File Type: doc x6sqsetup.doc (59.5 KB, 33 views)
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  #330  
Old 03-07-2012
Big E Big E is offline
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Set up looks fine.

I would think the bulkhead will make a big difference.

Rude height is measured at the rear from floor to chassis bottom. The front I tend to set just looking at the front arms so they are level but you can eye it from the side and set the chassis level.

E.
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  #331  
Old 03-07-2012
maineyak maineyak is offline
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Thanks.

No excuses now
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  #332  
Old 04-07-2012
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I'd also remove the cut staggers and run old-style staggers instead.

I've run my X6 at Coventry quite a bit and it's awful on cut-staggers (mega grip-roll and oversteer), but fantastic on normal staggers.

Get yourself a couple of jewelery scales (about £5 off ebay) so you can check your front/rear weight distribution. The weight of the lipos and radio gear can make a big difference, so the only way to get it right is to measure it. 65/35 is a good safe starting point. More weight on the rear if its wet, more on the front if you're understeering.
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  #333  
Old 04-07-2012
maineyak maineyak is offline
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Yep, I am using the stagger ribs rather than the cut staggers and they are pretty worn too.

I'll have a look at weight distribution tonight though - thanks!
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  #334  
Old 04-07-2012
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what's the best way of measuring 65/35 weight split front to rear?
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  #335  
Old 05-07-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arransmith27 View Post
what's the best way of measuring 65/35 weight split front to rear?
2 sets of jewelery scales, and 2 blocks of wood/metal the same height as the scales for the other 2 wheels to go on so that the car is flat. Or just buy 4 scales, since they're only a couple of quid a set.

In terms of the maths, it is:

Rear% = ( RearWeight / TotalWeight ) * 100
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  #336  
Old 10-07-2012
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arransmith27 arransmith27 is offline
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Thanks Dale
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  #337  
Old 13-07-2012
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MeBeMikey MeBeMikey is offline
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hey mainey, Michael here from last week. Didnt see you out at Cov last night, LOL. It was raining anyways and of course cancelled.

Last week when i was racing with you I was still running stick batteries. Now i have switched to saddle and my goodness what an improvment. I agree with the diff thing, if its a bit tight even the slightest I get oversteer going slow around corners. It can be a bit annoying when your car wont turn.

I am also 100g lighter with the new chassis and I can throw it around more which is how i like to drive. I feel i am taming the car now rather than it taming me. Id defo go for saddle and see how it goes. I still have my brass bulkhead on but since it works very well for me im going to leave it as it is. Plus, there might be an indoor meet at Silverstone if lots of races get rained out.

PS: switching to losi big bore springs too.
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  #338  
Old 06-11-2012
wouter.z wouter.z is offline
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Does anybody have a decent set-up for the X-6^2 using D-boots nanobite tires? I really struggled finding a drivable setup last week at the EOs in Poland.

Problem was that the car would flip really easy, i must admit that most people had these problems (using different cars) however the X-6^2 seems to be the worst car on the track.
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  #339  
Old 06-11-2012
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It's all about the tires! Cut some pins off, glue the sidewalls, get the right inserts.
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  #340  
Old 08-11-2012
NicolasCH NicolasCH is offline
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Hi all.

I have just ordered a X6 squared conversion kit, and would like to enquire on a few setup related questions in advance of receiving it. Many thanks in advance for your help...

A little background - I race 1/10 buggies on non permanent indoor carpet tracks. Layout is different every time, but they are typically tight with a few jumps (example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcUCE...eature=related ).

A majority of people use 10.5T modified motors, massive power is not required. More importantly, tires are imposed and are not great for carpet, they're probably more appropriate for clay (and still probably not the best...) HPI Fullslot front and HPI Megabites rear - no minipins allowed, so grip is good but not as high as it could be.

Finally, because we build the tracks late on evenings before races and for the race only, there is really no time to chase setups... you have to start close, hence my queries, I'm a bit scared starting a car I don't know without a half decent setup...

I also run (but not race) on larger outdoor astro tracks, but for that I have a specific car (well for now...); my focus is really on those tight indoor tracks.

That being said:

1. My "donor" car is a B4.1 FT Worlds edition, with the aluminium rear hubs, and I am currently using the "C tower with shaved U-brace" mod, which works quite well on carpet. Will there be any point in keeping those hubs and/or the C-hub-shaved-u-brace mods, or should I just use the B44 hubs supplied with the conversion kit?

2. A couple of setups I'm considering as a starting point (e.g. Ellis Stafford - Area 51) require the E Speed camber links, which are unfortunately out of stock - any alternative to running that?

3. Based on my reading, I was considering the T-Saddle LiPo configuration as the most appropriate. I however currently only have stick packs (heavy 6400mah ones!) and before I buy some saddles (or shorties?), could someone confirm that the T-saddle will bring meaningful advantages over the "standard pack across" configuration? Or I should take it easy and not bother at this stage?

Many thanks in advance,
Nick
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