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Old 05-02-2016
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The Doctor The Doctor is offline
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Default YZ-4: upgrades?

Right then, YZ-4 purchase is looming in readiness for the upcoming outdoor season. Have seen some fully-loaded with bling and some completely stock. What's the verdict re upgrades?

Was thinking of:
Aluminium pulleys
Narrow belts

Will be purchasing the "Europe Edition" with carbon mounts and roll bars in the kit.

Views?
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Current Weapons: YZ2-CA, YZ2-DT, YZ-4SF.

In The Pits: Yokomo R12C, Yokomo MR4-TC Custom, Yokomo MR4-TC Pro, Yokomo MR4-Rally, Tamiya Blitzer Beetle, Tamiya M05.

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Old 05-02-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Doctor View Post
Right then, YZ-4 purchase is looming in readiness for the upcoming outdoor season. Have seen some fully-loaded with bling and some completely stock. What's the verdict re upgrades?

Was thinking of:
Aluminium pulleys
Narrow belts

Will be purchasing the "Europe Edition" with carbon mounts and roll bars in the kit.

Views?
Maybe get the posh servo mount as well, the kits ones are pretty nasty.

Most of the bits are bling really, but you could add the alloy rear hangers for changing set up.
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Old 05-02-2016
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Alloy steering rack, the slop will drive you crazy on the composite one. Shim or put a shorter screw in the bellcranks, the flex in the composite ones means they have a slight rub on the chassis kick up, hence ill get these next.

Narrow belt kit IMO is a must, im seeing now a lot of cars running neither of the upper tensioners.

12.5 front caster blocks, ive found they really calmed the front down, i use 2.5 kick up with these on carpet.

Ive seen one car lose an outdrive due to the front link mount flexing and the screw snagging it, i also fitted these in alloy.

Im trying the LMR upper deck tonight.

lee
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Old 06-02-2016
mes mes is offline
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The narrow belt indeed frees up the drive train a lot. I have yet to buy the set, but I found that mounting the rear upper tensioner above the deck and putting the roller completely to the front also helps. To mount the tensioner from below you'll have to take a 2.5 mm socket head M3 screw as the button head is too large. My front upper link mounts have bee fine so far, maybe because I put some grub screws into the empty mounting holes.
How did the LMR/MR33 flex deck work out for you? Everyone I asked so far liked it a lot. I'll be adding most of the bling at some point for sure, but for the time being I've got to focus on reviewing a bunch of 2WD kits. So many new toys on the horizon!
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Old 06-02-2016
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ralphee ralphee is offline
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Mes, the upper deck was great, car felt a lot more supple and gave me some rear traction for sure.
Need to get some Green Yatabe rears to try, went orange last night and felt a bit heavy, so tried kit TBH and that went well.
Need to try shocks front with the new deck this week, as i ran shocks rear last night, car felt great, if a bit lazy.
Im running no tensioners at all, and all was spot on, try it mate, no skip, just a well smooth drivetrain. Adjust the centre rear bearing in full up position.
The new alloy rack worked well, taking all that slop out seemed to help.

Still had to change arms this morning, my last set of boiled fronts were again like a banana after one meet lol, so no more boiling, and i hope the aero bubble problem is sorted.

lee
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Old 06-02-2016
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MHeadling MHeadling is offline
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Glad the top deck worked well

The maritime yz4 racers rate the gull wing arms, they seem stronger than the flat arms

I've only ever used the gull wings and no breakages yet
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  #7  
Old 06-02-2016
mes mes is offline
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+1 on the gullwing arms and rear shocks fwd, I really like that set-up. Time to get rid of that belt tensioner I guess.
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Old 06-02-2016
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I need the Gull tower for the arms guys yes?

lee
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Old 06-02-2016
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Yes you sure do mate
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