rear axle movement desc410r

[asc6000]

My first Durango, why does this have so much movement?
Iv'e been rc'ing for a long long time and am a very good builder so this is killing me. Checked each part seperately and each interface (axle in bearings/bearings in hub/hub on hinge pin etc) and it adds up to a lot of slop. Shimmed reshimmed checked rechecked... help me out Durango veterans
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ZkFOraTOT0
As long as I have you, I was told my choice of electrics RSpro and 540 motor will not be not be up to the stress of this truck, should I use 1/8th scale stuff?...

thank you

[ryanlownie]

I've just looked at mine as it's sat here next to me (not even used!).

Mine has the same slop, it appears that it's coming from the hub sitting on the outer hingepin, if you press the hub forwards of backwards towards the arm, it does remove some of the slop. So there's one way of getting rid of a bit of slop, add some thin shims or ditch the plastic shims for something ever so slightly thicker.

There is still some slop on the axle though, this could be the bearings or the axle though and it is minimal!

Even with that slop, it's not a major issue, I run the Losi 8IGHT and anyone who owns one can tell you how much slop they have, it still performs well though and I don't think that the durability or wear of the parts is affected by slop.

[RC John]

Originally Posted by asc6000

As long as I have you, I was told my choice of electrics RSpro and 540 motor will not be not be up to the stress of this truck, should I use 1/8th scale stuff?...

thank you

I have a RSpro and 6.5T motor in my buggy and I'm having overheating issues. So I'd imagine the truck would be even worse since it's heavier.
The only good thing is the truck body doesn't fit nearly as tight so you'll get some cool air to it when it's running.

[Bozzspeed]

The Slop question....

All RC cars have slop. Some have no slop when new, then develop slop very fast after a few race meets. Some kits you build and wonder why so much slop, yet the slop doesn't get any worse after a few races.

Gee, us racers are hard to please....

Yes, use shims. Or best, buy more parts and keep the companies in business.

They could make the plastic parts really hard and then we would complain when it breaks, too soft and we would saying the arm look bent. Last time people where complaining about sanding that 3mm spacer down to 2.8mm, but you had control over the amount of slop.


The Moral of the story : all good racers will use shims. (unless your a factory driver)


RC John : just double check your solder joints, that may be a causing the problem of over-heating.

[asc6000]

I was warned by an old freind who's been running a 410 spec car that I would overheat and thermal but so far it's barely been getting up to operating temp. I do have a smooth trigger finger and it is gear conservatively, what you can't see is it's only a 10.5 motor, other than a long straight you would never know it. Since the pics I installed a 550 can 5.5 motor but have not run it yet (I will this weekend) As for the slop, shimming would not fix it, it's between the hinge pin and the hub and the bearing and the axle mostly. Junk fit.

[Bozzspeed]

pin it with some grub screws then.

the bearing and the axle is something that is hard to remove. Most of the movement is from the inner race. I notice that the DESC kit doesn't use the axle spacer.

Does anyone know if the DEX410 ones will fit?