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  #121  
Old 20-05-2019
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Thank you Wolvie. I will fit the other two shims to the differential and give it a try.
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  #122  
Old 20-05-2019
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Piccy of a 40mm fan mount I made for mine. 40mm is probably overkill so printed a 30mm mount too - but had this fan spare and it 'just' fits - so why not
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File Type: jpg fan mount.jpg (208.2 KB, 101 views)
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  #123  
Old 22-05-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by On the roof View Post
I'm getting a good amount of binding on the front camber mount with the captive ball joints.. the only way I can stop the binding is having the ball joint on the camber mount loose anyone else have this issue??
my guess is you dont have the steel washer on and you have an alloy one, the only way the captive joints bind is the wrong washer or ill fitting one
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  #124  
Old 22-05-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spils77 View Post
Yes I have noticed some movement when the differential is fitted into the transmission housing. I have followed the instructions and used one shim on each side of the diff and fitted the bearings into the eccentric housings but once fitted to the transmission housing there is about 1.5 - 2mm of side ways movement.
I have two spare shims of the same size which were in a different pack, I don't know what these are for?
team found fitting two between each bearing and diff on each side gave a far better result, pretty sure there is an update in the kits
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  #125  
Old 22-05-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark christopher View Post
my guess is you dont have the steel washer on and you have an alloy one, the only way the captive joints bind is the wrong washer or ill fitting one

It's definitely the right washer
but to be fair the binding is happening below the length of a shock length so it's no real issue if that makes sense
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  #126  
Old 22-05-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by On the roof View Post
It's definitely the right washer
but to be fair the binding is happening below the length of a shock length so it's no real issue if that makes sense
ah ok if your going past the pivot point of the ball that will explain it, it will free up a little during use too
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  #127  
Old 25-05-2019
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The two shims either side of the differential worked and took out the excess play, all good. I must admit I did not see the message on the bag as I was to eager to open the packet and complete the transmission.
The build of the car has gone really well but I have had two components where the screws did not show any resistance when being tightened into the plastic and once the screw had reached its limit the screw would just turn. I am really careful not to overstress any component by overtightening but on these two parts the screw would turn quite freely without applying any pressure on the hex driver. Has anyone else had any similar issues?
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  #128  
Old 25-05-2019
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What parts were they?
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  #129  
Old 25-05-2019
On the roof On the roof is offline
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I got the front lower wing for the laydown is there a mount for it?


Found the mount now
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Last edited by On the roof; 25-05-2019 at 05:38 PM.
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  #130  
Old 26-05-2019
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Quote:
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What parts were they?
The two parts I had issues with where U7636 which is a small plate which sits behind the rear of the transmission. The one turnbuckle ball joint just would not secure and the other part was U7046 which is just a battery post. Apart from this the build was excellent. Just installing the electrics now
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  #131  
Old 26-05-2019
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Just a quick question. How much of the body shell do you remove to clear the slipper clutch spring? The cut lines on the shell look different to what the manual is instructing. If anyone has a pic of there body shell I can use for guidance that would be appreciated.
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  #132  
Old 26-05-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spils77 View Post
Just a quick question. How much of the body shell do you remove to clear the slipper clutch spring? The cut lines on the shell look different to what the manual is instructing. If anyone has a pic of there body shell I can use for guidance that would be appreciated.
Went a bit nuts with mine so i could get to the slipper with the shell on.



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Last edited by stormyyyy; 26-05-2019 at 11:56 AM.
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  #133  
Old 26-05-2019
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the body as of yet does not have cut lines for the ld, its the same body as the kc

personally i have cut nothing for the dlipper area and have zero rub marks, the body is one and off with velcro so slipper on mine is set then body fitted.
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  #134  
Old 26-05-2019
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Thanks for the pictures and the advice regarding the body shell. I was getting a bit confused with the cut lines not in sync with the manual.
One last question, what gear ratio would you recommend using a 8.5t motor and the kit spur gear? I currently have a 22t pinion fitted.
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  #135  
Old 26-05-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spils77 View Post
Thanks for the pictures and the advice regarding the body shell. I was getting a bit confused with the cut lines not in sync with the manual.
One last question, what gear ratio would you recommend using a 8.5t motor and the kit spur gear? I currently have a 22t pinion fitted.
I'm usually 21 or 22 pinion on kit spur and 7.5t motor. just depends what acceleration/top end you want. Also effects temps and track type will play apart. I would say you are in the right area.
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CONTINUED MY EDUCATION WITH A TLR 22 4.0
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GOT A KC TO WHILST WAITING FOR THE LAYDOWN
NOW DRIVING A COUGAR LAYDOWN
KC CONVERTED TO KD FOR THE WET
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  #136  
Old 26-05-2019
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I have just noticed that the diff height eccentric bearing housing in my car is actually moving up and down and left too right in the gearbox on my car. Only on one side but there is movement. I checked all my gearbox bolts were tight and there was nothing in terms of excess mould material causing it and there isn't. I am concerned because movement there means the mesh between the diff and the idler won't be true and consistent. Anyone experienced this ?
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  #137  
Old 26-05-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adey View Post
I have just noticed that the diff height eccentric bearing housing in my car is actually moving up and down and left too right in the gearbox on my car. Only on one side but there is movement. I checked all my gearbox bolts were tight and there was nothing in terms of excess mould material causing it and there isn't. I am concerned because movement there means the mesh between the diff and the idler won't be true and consistent. Anyone experienced this ?
you need to fit the two shims between the bearing and diff ( two per side) i think it says on the ladle on the bag with the shims in it
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  #138  
Old 26-05-2019
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I have done so. I am not referring to movement there. The issue is the diff bearing housing that is used to adjust the diff height is not a tight fit in the gearbox. It looks like a moulding issue.
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  #139  
Old 26-05-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adey View Post
I have done so. I am not referring to movement there. The issue is the diff bearing housing that is used to adjust the diff height is not a tight fit in the gearbox. It looks like a moulding issue.
try it with the other eccentrics to see if you have the same problem. might give you some idea to which part is not right
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LEARN'T WITH A DEX210,
CONTINUED MY EDUCATION WITH A TLR 22 4.0
BECAME BATLEY BUGGY CLUB COMMITTEE MEMBER
GOT A KC TO WHILST WAITING FOR THE LAYDOWN
NOW DRIVING A COUGAR LAYDOWN
KC CONVERTED TO KD FOR THE WET
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  #140  
Old 26-05-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adey View Post
I have done so. I am not referring to movement there. The issue is the diff bearing housing that is used to adjust the diff height is not a tight fit in the gearbox. It looks like a moulding issue.
the team found the same issue, thats why the update and extra shims are provided to be fitted between the bearing and diff, it pushes the bearings into the height adjusters into the casings., on mine it fixed it and others i have seen. its the movment your describing.

(step 29 2 shims each side of diff not the 1 each side as manual)
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