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Old 10-09-2012
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Default Kyosho RB6 thread

Hi all,

Suprised no one else has started this one yet, but hopefully we can all share helpful info and tips on the new RB6. Any pics would also be nice, so ill start us off!
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Old 10-09-2012
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and some on the inside...not quite how the manual says but im experimenting
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Old 11-09-2012
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Give it time Ian, most people will only have their first possible oppertunity to open the box this evening. Hoping mine lands tonight it's "on vehicle for delivery today"
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Old 11-09-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerM View Post
Give it time Ian, most people will only have their first possible oppertunity to open the box this evening. Hoping mine lands tonight it's "on vehicle for delivery today"

Mine to but i cant have it till my birthday
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Old 13-09-2012
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The Car is Great! Here a Setup from the German Naionals

i have all Electric made in the Front! And the Saddle Packs in the REAR!!

Greets Kim
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  #6  
Old 13-09-2012
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Here is it!
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Old 15-09-2012
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Getting really tempted with the RB6 after having a good look at Tony and Steve's cars.

I'm leaning towards using a Tekin RS Pro in it due to the size compare with my Orion R10.

Certainly interested to see how many RB6s are out there and how many of the fast boys have changed etc.

Although do really like the DB1 - just need a dirt track built in the South!
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Old 16-09-2012
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Here is my RB6 painted and ready for the Apex GP!
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Old 16-09-2012
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Still waiting for the proper shell to come back so no pics of mine yet.

I have run it a few times now and it's brilliant.

Mikey, my R10 looks right at home there and the install is super tidy .. I will post up a blury pic in a bit

Pics added, I think you have to do a tiny bit of cutting on the rear battery retaining plate if you want to run the fan on the R10 but that is all.

R10 capacitor on off-side of chassis, the MRT PTX will fit in front of it once I get hold of it.
In the near side, front to back,Spektrum 3500 Rx, glitch buster, R10 switch.

I think it's all in tidy enough and it lets you run the cell options the manual forgets to mention, T-saddle and shorty right forward ... for those were massive steering isn't enough
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File Type: jpg RB6_saddle instal1.jpg (129.7 KB, 274 views)
File Type: jpg RB6_saddle instal2.jpg (66.5 KB, 232 views)
File Type: jpg RB6_T-saddle instal1.jpg (58.1 KB, 209 views)
File Type: jpg RB6_T-saddle instal2.jpg (43.9 KB, 159 views)
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Old 16-09-2012
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Interesting, how does it compare with the DB1?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerM View Post
Still waiting for the proper shell to come back so no pics of mine yet.

I have run it a few times now and it's brilliant.

Mikey, my R10 looks right at home there and the install is super tidy .. I will post up a blury pic in a bit
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  #11  
Old 16-09-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerM View Post
Still waiting for the proper shell to come back so no pics of mine yet.

I have run it a few times now and it's brilliant.

Mikey, my R10 looks right at home there and the install is super tidy .. I will post up a blury pic in a bit
lol. Well I need to decide whether to order or not first really before thinking about electrics.

It'll be
Sanwa 451 RX
Orion or SP 8.5 motor
Orion R10 or Tekin RS Pro ESC
Savox 1257 servo or Orion Low Profile.

If I ordered one I would still keep the DB1 and all installed ready to roll
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Old 17-09-2012
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Hi Roger, your R10 instal is very, very tidy. Do you choose not to use the fan, or have you squeezed it in somewhere else, seeing the top of the R10's heat sink looks the biz by comparision to a plastic fan.

Thanks for sharing the images, the've made me re-think the ESC rotation, as I have the wires stretching from right to left over the diff, which causes a very slight distortion to the shell.
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Old 17-09-2012
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Default Cable management

Noting from the uploads of completed cars so far, I see no one including myself has used the dedicated cable management channels built into the side skirts.

Theres a squared off entry hole in each side skirt towards the front linking to another at the rear. Not large enough for a plug to be pulled through, but supposedly large enough for a cable to be contained. I just couldn't squeeze my cables in which was a shame, but will have another go when I get the time and am less frantic to complete the build.

Has anyone had any joy, or have I just dream't this slick feature up??
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Old 17-09-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raphalite View Post
Do you choose not to use the fan, or have you squeezed it in somewhere else, seeing the top of the R10's heat sink looks the biz by comparision to a plastic fan.
I'm only currently running an Orion 8.5VST in there so no need for the extra cooling.

If you want to run the fan you just need to take a small amount of material off the plate the battery strap sits under, a 2 minute job.
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Old 31-10-2013
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Guys I'm looking at selling my DB1 and getting the RB6. What upgrades are required, ie the Ali front or rear bulk head, Ali steering posts, what's a must have when building it.

Cheers
Ross
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Old 31-10-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross View Post
Guys I'm looking at selling my DB1 and getting the RB6. What upgrades are required, ie the Ali front or rear bulk head, Ali steering posts, what's a must have when building it.

Cheers
Ross
-Ali steering rack (some have been ok with the plastic one, others havent)
-Losi ball studs for the front (TLR6024) and rear (TLR6023) bulkheads, this stops the threads being pulled out.
-If you are running shorty lipo's, the Rudebits tray makes fitting the electrics a bit easier and stops the battery floating about.


For Silverstone and outdoors, I would recommend the straight rear wishbones. You can use the RB6 outer hingepin with 2 2mm spacers at either end.

PM me your email address and I will send across my Silverstone setup.
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Old 31-10-2013
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PM me an e-mail address and I'll send you a killer outdoor / all condition (other than Silverstone's MEGA grip) astro setup too.

The Losi ball studs are one way of doing it but using the longer Kyosho ball studs works just as well.

Make sure you put M3x5mm grub screws in all the unsued camber link holes to make those parts bullet proof.

I think most people who have tried 4x1.3mm shock pistons have kept them in, make a great improvement to the cars balance of grip. Can either block/melt a hole closed in the stock pistons (as I and Chris have done respectively) or brill some fresh from Kyosho blanks / fit AVID or GHEA straight pistons. DON'T GO TAPPERED IN THE RB6!!

Car is super strong and once dialed in to you needs very little tinkering to make it good everywhere.

No idea why some people are struggling for rear end traction, guessing it has to be a setup issue as people running my setup make very very little changes soaking wet to high grip dry.

If you want to buy any aluminium hing pin holders go for the later ones that have the inserts, if you can only aford one make it the forward one as that is the most useful for tuning.

Enjoy
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  #18  
Old 31-10-2013
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Why not tapered pistons Roger? I haven't tried them but am currently on small bores which I like since the piston return feels faster and the car more agile.
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Old 01-11-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danmurphy View Post
Why not tapered pistons Roger? I haven't tried them but am currently on small bores which I like since the piston return feels faster and the car more agile.
The simple answer is that the RB6 is already so reactive that IMHO the last thing it needs is encouraging to react even faster.

Only place where I personally think that I might get a benefit out of the small bores is Silverstone on their freakishly high grip surface, I can't bring myself to go for a complete set of shocks to use only 6 or so times a year so I'm happy to stick with the big bores.

Everywhere else I actively disliked the car on the small bores, any (very) slight decrease in laptime was negated many times over by the errors that crept in, quite often found I had to get back out of the throttle on the small bores as the car was unstable.
I can't get the car to generate such balanced grip in the wet with the small bores either, the big bores really seem to tame the weight transfer and make the car more predictable (probably why Kyosho specify them)

Possibly a combination of my driving style and the fact that I've done so much testing with big bores now (26 different pistons in my pit box) but I honestly believe that for all but the "superstars" like Kev the kit big bores with a change to 4x1.3 pistons will be faster over the 5mins.

Hope that explaination helps
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  #20  
Old 16-11-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danmurphy View Post
Why not tapered pistons Roger? I haven't tried them but am currently on small bores which I like since the piston return feels faster and the car more agile.
Could you tell me what piston/spring combo your using for the small bores?
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