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Old 09-02-2018
Peter_B Peter_B is offline
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Default New KF2 SE owner looking for advice

Hi,

I used to race when I was younger. Was a member of Silverstone Buggy Club many moons ago. Last time I raced I ran a ProCat (still got it, waiting to get round to a rebuild/restore).

I rediscovered the hobby a few months ago and acquired a few bashers for myself and my little boys.

I've ordered a Schumacher Cougar KF2 SE kit, with the intention of using it for a return to some racing after 20+ years.

To go with it I have:
  • Speed Passion Reventon Pro 1.1 ESC
  • Speed Passion 6.5T brushless motor or (and most likely to start with) Speed Passion 13.5T brushless motor

KF2 SE has the low grip conversion and mid motor conversion in the box to go with the standard forward motor position.

I'm trying to determine whether or not I need to order the U4706 shorty conversion to allow using a shorty behind the motor, when the motor is in the standard forward position, or whether those parts are included in the SE kit. Can anybody confirm for me?

Don't have the batteries yet (only have NiMH packs at the moment) but I think I want to go shorty as the other motor positions require shorty packs and I want to be able to use the same packs no matter what position the motor is in. Am I right there?

Of course I have no idea which motor position to go for - my local club at Daventry race on carpet. I was thinking to start with the standard forward position and go from there. Sensible thinking?

To be fair, first time out it will likely be totally standard kit setup. Other than perhaps the shorty conversion if that is needed.

For a servo I've been debating between a Savox SC-1251MG or SC-1252MG or a Bluebird BMS-621DMG from Hobbyking. I have a couple of those Bluebird servos already in my RC10 Team Car and Top Force. They seem decent enough but neither of those cars have done any running yet.

Tyres - I'm going to get a pair of pre-glued Schmacher yellow Cut Staggers for the front and a pair of Schumacher yellow Cactus for the rear.

Kit doesn't come with a pinion, it has an 83 tooth spur in the box. Looking at some setup sheets online I've seen people, running 6.5T motors, use a 23 tooth pinion with the 83 spur. Good starting point?

No idea which way to go for the 13.5T motor.

Doesn't help that I will have zero chance to test anything or even setup the slipper until the first time I turn up at the track.

Any experience and/or advice?
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  #2  
Old 09-02-2018
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cjm_2008 cjm_2008 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter_B View Post
Hi,

I used to race when I was younger. Was a member of Silverstone Buggy Club many moons ago. Last time I raced I ran a ProCat (still got it, waiting to get round to a rebuild/restore).

I rediscovered the hobby a few months ago and acquired a few bashers for myself and my little boys.

I've ordered a Schumacher Cougar KF2 SE kit, with the intention of using it for a return to some racing after 20+ years.

To go with it I have:
  • Speed Passion Reventon Pro 1.1 ESC
  • Speed Passion 6.5T brushless motor or (and most likely to start with) Speed Passion 13.5T brushless motor

KF2 SE has the low grip conversion and mid motor conversion in the box to go with the standard forward motor position.

I'm trying to determine whether or not I need to order the U4706 shorty conversion to allow using a shorty behind the motor, when the motor is in the standard forward position, or whether those parts are included in the SE kit. Can anybody confirm for me?

Don't have the batteries yet (only have NiMH packs at the moment) but I think I want to go shorty as the other motor positions require shorty packs and I want to be able to use the same packs no matter what position the motor is in. Am I right there?

Of course I have no idea which motor position to go for - my local club at Daventry race on carpet. I was thinking to start with the standard forward position and go from there. Sensible thinking?

To be fair, first time out it will likely be totally standard kit setup. Other than perhaps the shorty conversion if that is needed.

For a servo I've been debating between a Savox SC-1251MG or SC-1252MG or a Bluebird BMS-621DMG from Hobbyking. I have a couple of those Bluebird servos already in my RC10 Team Car and Top Force. They seem decent enough but neither of those cars have done any running yet.

Tyres - I'm going to get a pair of pre-glued Schmacher yellow Cut Staggers for the front and a pair of Schumacher yellow Cactus for the rear.

Kit doesn't come with a pinion, it has an 83 tooth spur in the box. Looking at some setup sheets online I've seen people, running 6.5T motors, use a 23 tooth pinion with the 83 spur. Good starting point?

No idea which way to go for the 13.5T motor.

Doesn't help that I will have zero chance to test anything or even setup the slipper until the first time I turn up at the track.

Any experience and/or advice?
1. You shouldn't need any additional bits to run a shorty lipo.

2. Saddles will fit, but shorty packs are much easier to work with & the car has been designed with those dimensions in mind - including the ability to move fore & aft to fine tune the weight distribution.

3. I'd start the other way round - motor rearwards, battery ahead of it. Understeer is easier to deal with & tune out. You want a car that pushes as you're re-learning (unless you're happy with a squirty car!). I can't remember what's recommended in the manual. go with whatever that says. And don't mess with it until you're able to lap consistently & accurately judge what you want the car to do.

4. gearing seems fine (go smaller if the track is twisty), but run a fan on your ESC if you're not already doing so.

5. don't worry about slipper setting, there's bound to be people willing to help & race control may be able to give you a minute or two on your own on the straight to tweak the adjuster nut.

The tyre choice you've gone for is pretty much the standard now across all 2wd carpet setups regardless of brand. Personally I much prefer the feel of the cactus tyres vs mini pins and the wear rate is vastly improved.
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Old 09-02-2018
Peter_B Peter_B is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjm_2008 View Post
1. You shouldn't need any additional bits to run a shorty lipo.

2. Saddles will fit, but shorty packs are much easier to work with & the car has been designed with those dimensions in mind - including the ability to move fore & aft to fine tune the weight distribution.

3. I'd start the other way round - motor rearwards, battery ahead of it. Understeer is easier to deal with & tune out. You want a car that pushes as you're re-learning (unless you're happy with a squirty car!). I can't remember what's recommended in the manual. go with whatever that says. And don't mess with it until you're able to lap consistently & accurately judge what you want the car to do.

4. gearing seems fine (go smaller if the track is twisty), but run a fan on your ESC if you're not already doing so.

5. don't worry about slipper setting, there's bound to be people willing to help & race control may be able to give you a minute or two on your own on the straight to tweak the adjuster nut.

The tyre choice you've gone for is pretty much the standard now across all 2wd carpet setups regardless of brand. Personally I much prefer the feel of the cactus tyres vs mini pins and the wear rate is vastly improved.
Thanks for the reply.

I thought the belt would get in the way if trying to run a shorty lipo, rearward of the motor, without the conversion kit. I guess I'll know more when I can have a good look at all the parts in the box.

Are there any pictures anywhere that show the various motor and battery positions?

ESC has got a fan, I just need to get some screws to mount it. ESC was second hand and screws are missing.

If I run the 13.5T motor to start with, would you recommend setting up for a gear ratio in the same ball park as the 83/23 combination for the 6.5T?
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  #4  
Old 09-02-2018
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Stu Dixon Stu Dixon is offline
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I have a KF2se and its a great little car to run, kit setup is your best starting point and see how you get on from there..

mine is in low grip config as you can see below
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_4057.jpg (622.7 KB, 67 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4058.jpg (816.0 KB, 75 views)
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Old 09-02-2018
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oh and if you click on the link it will show you the KF2's different motor positions..

http://www.neobuggy.net/2015/07/29/s...or-conversion/
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  #6  
Old 09-02-2018
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On high grip carpet at MB Models I have it set up with motor as far forward as possible, shocks on front of wishbones and have a foam spacer for the battery so I can move battery forwards or to to the back depending on level of grip, can’t get images onto here but if you pop an email address on pm and I can forward the pics to you if interested.
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  #7  
Old 15-02-2018
Peter_B Peter_B is offline
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Thanks for the info.

If I could ask another question - what are the suggested spares to have on hand?

Is there anything that typically breaks, wishbones or shock towers for example?
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Old 15-02-2018
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I would say front and rear wishbones and towers and the top portion of the front housing u4094 is a good starting point, not really broken anything else, but have seen a front axle snap
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Old 16-02-2018
Peter_B Peter_B is offline
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Thanks again. I've ordered up some front and rear wishbones to have on hand as spares.

I also ordered some spare ball cups for the rear turnbuckles. I followed the instructions and screwed them on fully before setting the length. But I over did it with one of them and the turnbuckle end poked through into the ball cup. That cup now binds and pops off easily.

School boy error! I blame being ill whilst building it.
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Old 13-04-2018
Peter_B Peter_B is offline
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Does anybody know if there are any alternative battery holder posts available for the KF2 that use thumb screws instead of body clips?
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Old 13-04-2018
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You could try the K2 posts depending on battery position, u4764 posts u4765 thumb scre s u4774 alloy thumbscrews have a look on the K2 exploded view on Schumachers website for pics 👍
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Old 13-04-2018
Peter_B Peter_B is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Navek668 View Post
You could try the K2 posts depending on battery position, u4764 posts u4765 thumb scre s u4774 alloy thumbscrews have a look on the K2 exploded view on Schumachers website for pics 👍
Thanks I hadn't thought of checking other cars. Looks like they should do the job.
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Old 13-04-2018
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Get the kc ones you get two sizes
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