Questions

[muratti]

Originally Posted by DaveG28

I've tried all the arms over time and my none scientific findings have basically been for the arms Jamie mentioned:

Front
51275 = Strongest arm, but when they fail they clean break (eg end of race), and tend to bend the hinge pin with them
54141 = Crack quite easily, but on the plus side tend not to fail completely, so you finish the race! I've also never bent a hinge pin while running them (so far!)
54283 = Don't crack as often as 54141, but like the front 201 arm I have found they bend and twist, so need keeping an eye on as they knock the geometry out!

Rear
51279 = as per 51275
54142 = as per 54141
51449 = per 54283, except I haven't yet found a twisting problem with them. It's also worth noting this arm has a cut out that's required by the 201, which I don't always see on the other rear arm options, so I'd always go for 51449 for the 2wd!!

I agree with you , Dave, only both you and Jamie forgot about the standard DB01 arms which are 51311 for the front and 51313 for the Rear. Have exactly the same geometry and thickness like the 501 arms but are way softer, nevertheless they tend to bend the hinge pin too just like the 501 arms BUT they cost nearly half of the 501X arms that´s why i always use them on my 4WDs.
Dave, what cut out do the 51449 have for 2WD? Never realized that!

[Fredrik Emilsson]

Originally Posted by Chris

Please make them the same as the TRF502X towers. The have one hole less and make them stronger. The outside hole is never used (by most of the racers i think).

Just my thought. Will also make some other "adjustments".

[DaveG28]

Originally Posted by muratti

I agree with you , Dave, only both you and Jamie forgot about the standard DB01 arms which are 51311 for the front and 51313 for the Rear. Have exactly the same geometry and thickness like the 501 arms but are way softer, nevertheless they tend to bend the hinge pin too just like the 501 arms BUT they cost nearly half of the 501X arms that´s why i always use them on my 4WDs.
Dave, what cut out do the 51449 have for 2WD? Never realized that!

There's a cutout on the inner part of the wishbone to stop it fouling the outdrive under compression! I have seen some 4wd high traction arms with them, and some without, so I just buy the 51449 now!

[wildwillydriver]

Originally Posted by Lee Martin

201;

Try running the weight i advised above. also some things i have been going well with lately are:
Cutting rear arms 2mm and shortening wheelbase.
running plastic rear hubs in middle hole.
running inside hole on rear tower.
using backward ackerman position
using 25 degree caster blocks
79 spur with 24 tooth pinion

run yellow springs all round and 35 front 30 rear.
1.3 piston rear and 1.4 front.

i hope this helps.

8th - Unsure the best place to buy? maybe just direct from USA? unfortunately i cannot sell anything in europe.



Lee

Hey Lee,
one more time thanks for your effort, it's precious!
I know your time is short and i promise this is my last post for you....

On 201 i need a couple more info:

1) Cutting rear arms 2mm and shortening wheelbase: I don't understand this copletely.... sorry but my english is not that good.....
2) Would you adivise to use the OPT chassis (high traction) on Dirt dry and low traction tracks?

Now on the 8th:
1) We will see some Set Up sheets on "your" TRF site?
2) If not, can you give some set up guide lines for Dirt dry and low traction conditon?

Thanks in advance.

Bye
WWD

[jayfinn8]

Very happy one at that. Already like better than my DEX410 v3.
Is anyone running big bore shocks and which one's. The rears need rebuilding so just trying to decide to rebuild or by a different set of shocks. Also what rear hub do most run 0,.5, or 1 degree. Is everyone still running pin set up in axle for wheel or can I fit 12mm hexes, what brand? Thanks....

[Rich D]

Originally Posted by jayfinn8

Very happy one at that. Already like better than my DEX410 v3.
Is anyone running big bore shocks and which one's. The rears need rebuilding so just trying to decide to rebuild or by a different set of shocks. Also what rear hub do most run 0,.5, or 1 degree. Is everyone still running pin set up in axle for wheel or can I fit 12mm hexes, what brand? Thanks....

Most run the std shocks albiet with the better looking HL gold cylinders. Not seen any 511 with big bores fitted personally.

Rear hubs, my settings are - zero degree on high grip dry astro, 0 or 0.5 indoors and 1.0 in the wet.

Std pin setup at the back. Std Tamiya wheels or Losi rims fit without modification.

HTH

[Lee Martin]

As rich says really.
Use pin.
No big bores, the TRF shocks work really good.aune try some different springs?

Lee

[kedal]

Lee, what are those yellow spring you use In Pau during Euro ? From another brand ? Kyosho ones ? If yes, why using these insteed of the Tamiya ones ?

Thanks

[mattybucks]

Originally Posted by kedal

Lee, what are those yellow spring you use In Pau during Euro ? From another brand ? Kyosho ones ? If yes, why using these insteed of the Tamiya ones ?

Thanks

They are Kyosho springs, I now use them on my 511. The tamiya springs needed to be cut down.

[kedal]

Ok, thanks. I'm happy for now with the stock spring, so, I think just play with the oil for my local track.

[Aussie Top Force]

This is a really helpful thread! Thumbs up to Lee for offering his knowledge.

I haven't raced since the mid 1990's, but a recently ordered a TRF 201 (Limited Edition) from HK, nowhere to be found in Australia I'm affraid! I'm looking forward to racing the car as is out of box and then progressively trying the modifications Lee has suggested. Most tracks I'll be running on will be hard packed clay and outdoors. Grip will be a matter of how much 'Aussie' dust there is. I'll be starting of in a Stock Class 17.5 turn Brushlesh.

A question: Lee any tips on building the TRF 201 out of the box? Should I be installing upgraded ball studs from scratch as I have been reading that the standard versions break or bend easily? Any other items to replace to make the car as bullet proof as possible?

Regards

David

[Lee Martin]

David,

The 201 is very good out of the box in terms of quality. You can look into Ceramic diff balls and also spring options.
Things to try - LMR Bulkhead for 201 - adding 35g of weight to front to make better at jumping and on bumpy tracks to keep the noise down!

The car is very strong also! you can try the 501X HD rear arms if you ever break a standard one? these are super strong!!!

Another nice touch is the Rudebits carbon battery strap!

Hope this helps.

Lee

[Jamesk]

A question on the 201, i seem to have a large of amount of bump steer on a very bumpy track i race on. I can not tell if its more front or rear but it seams worse on full throttle but i have plenty of traction. An advice would be appreciated.

jK

[steve-thebabystore]

Hi Lee, slightly off topic but congrats on your new arrival.

[Aussie Top Force]

Originally Posted by Lee Martin

David,

The 201 is very good out of the box in terms of quality. You can look into Ceramic diff balls and also spring options.
Things to try - LMR Bulkhead for 201 - adding 35g of weight to front to make better at jumping and on bumpy tracks to keep the noise down!

The car is very strong also! you can try the 501X HD rear arms if you ever break a standard one? these are super strong!!!

Another nice touch is the Rudebits carbon battery strap!

Hope this helps.

Lee

Hi Lee,

Thanks for those tips! I've been looking on the JT models and RC Domination website and cannot find the "LMR Bulkhead for 201". Are you able to help point to where I could order it from? Thanks for your time!

[mattybucks]

Originally Posted by Aussie Top Force

Hi Lee,

Thanks for those tips! I've been looking on the JT models and RC Domination website and cannot find the "LMR Bulkhead for 201". Are you able to help point to where I could order it from? Thanks for your time!

The bulkheads are only just out. You can order one directly from Lee http://l-m-racing.co.uk/?page_id=266

[Lee Martin]

Originally Posted by Jamesk

A question on the 201, i seem to have a large of amount of bump steer on a very bumpy track i race on. I can not tell if its more front or rear but it seams worse on full throttle but i have plenty of traction. An advice would be appreciated.

jK

How do you mean?

Bump steer is the amount of steering change the front wheel receives from suspension movements? is this what your asking?
or are you saying your car is bad on bumpy tracks?

Lee

[CraigM]

Hi Lee,

What is a good starting point for oil in front and rear gear diffs? I'll be racing on a med grip hard packed dirt track

Thanks
Craig

[Aussie Top Force]

Originally Posted by mattybucks

The bulkheads are only just out. You can order one directly from Lee http://l-m-racing.co.uk/?page_id=266

Thanks! I'll investigate more once my TRF 201 arrives. Hopefully this week!

[Jamesk]

Lee,

The front end is very hard to keep in a straightline on bumpy tracks, ive read your reveiw in on of the rc mags and seen you raise the front sterring arm's, ill fit the spacers and see if thats the answer.
Thanks


jK