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#1
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How to get more grip on a wooden floor?
Pretty self explanatory title!
We race on the above surface and grip is an absolute swine. Im running a TT02 at present (not for much longer). I've removed grease from both diffs, changed tyres to yellow pins. Rebuilt the shocks (hop ups) with the softest springs I can get. Still zero grip. Any ideas folks???
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Too many RC cars, not one working well! |
#2
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turn down the throttle punch if you can. You will never have a great deal of grip. check your camber, you want about 1 to 1.5 deg same for the toe out
go one level softer on the rear to the front with the springs also try removing the rear antiroll bar if you have one fitted |
#3
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just so you know those settings are for a Mi1 lol
My son raced one for our winter series and placed 3rd |
#4
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Have you tried schumacher rally blocks in white compound? I was getting a little wheel screech on them when grip was 'low' for most last year. Wear quick though.
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#5
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Sadly Not
Yellow slim mini pins were the control tyre. Silvers worked well but the wear rate was high |
#6
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Thanks for the suggestions guys.
Unfortunately being a TT02 there is no toe or camber adjustment - it's not that advanced! I'll try the suggestions made above though. Re the shocks it's weird because they seem fine of the car but once fitted they seem to change characteristics completely and become stiff and slow to rebound. You would say over damped but Ive drilled extra holes and used the thinnest oil (25w) I would get. Confused.com
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Too many RC cars, not one working well! |
#7
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https://www.asiatees.com/display?Tam...id=72865&pid=1
https://www.asiatees.com/display?Tam...id=73563&pid=1 They also do adjustable rear uppers as well These would be a good addition and not to expensive |
#8
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Quote:
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#9
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I used to do a lot of racing on wooden floors.
Tyres are very important - narrow yellow minpins are the fastest, but don't last long, I would get maximum of 3 race meetings out of a set before the pace dropped right away. I always ran them with the blue foam inserts. Car build and prep is very important - it sounds like something is binding up on your TT which will really unsettle the car - with the TT-01 you needed to spend a little time sanding away the mould lines on the wishbone pivots to get it running smoothly. Car setup itself is not so important. I always preferred a front diff to get the steering, but when I raced on wooden floors spools were still quite a new thing. Other than that, it was just standard tarmac settings on the suspension. |
#10
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What body she'll are you running? You want a body with plenty of downforce, so a decent rear wing is essential. We found that it makes a huge difference.
Looking at lap times we could see exactly when we lost the rear wing on our car as lap times went up noticeably, and the car was a lot more of a handful to drive. |
#11
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Some good food for thought.
I noticed last meeting that my shocks were great until I'd done a few heats and then they seemed to stiffen up. Maybe leaking air? After they had been left for a while they have returned back to how they should be. I've binned the TT02 now anyway. Building a Hobao h4e which will have it's own challenges no doubt. Thanks for everyones' advice. Rob.
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Too many RC cars, not one working well! |
#12
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used to race FF-01's and TA-02s on wooden floors, I alway went for Yellow mini pins on the front and whites on the rear...
Yellows being that bit firmer they lasted a bit longer and took out some of the steering. Shame, you can't go to Rally blocks, they rule! |
#13
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Lay some carpet.
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Current Weapons: YZ2-CA, YZ2-DT, YZ-4SF. In The Pits: Yokomo R12C, Yokomo MR4-TC Custom, Yokomo MR4-TC Pro, Yokomo MR4-Rally, Tamiya Blitzer Beetle, Tamiya M05. Driven: Race Red Fiesta ST
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