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  #21  
Old 10-01-2009
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also, no fan or heatsinks, small footprint, small capacitor, easy trackside adjustment....
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  #22  
Old 10-01-2009
Alfonzo Alfonzo is offline
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Yes, I'm loving the lack of fans, heatsinks and all. So I know I could go do this research myself but seeing as this thread is alive and well - Which is the 'better' model? the Pro or the RS?
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  #23  
Old 10-01-2009
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Randy,

R1 Pro (uncensored) with Orion 7.5BL on LiPo's

problem is from standing start the motor won't spin up/lazy unless I'm real easy on the throttle When she's up and running all is OK.

Motor has standard timing and is geared 24/81.

Any suggestions?
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File Type: jpg Tekin R1 Pro & Orion 7.5.jpg (33.7 KB, 67 views)
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  #24  
Old 10-01-2009
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reduce your neutral width to between 12 and 15 on the hotwire, ramp your brakes to 100% and reduce on the transmitter, dial in about 5-10 of drag brake, this helps the ESC know where the rotor is at all times.

Have you also checked to see if there is a newer firmware with your hotwire?
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Old 10-01-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCM View Post
reduce your neutral width to between 12 and 15 on the hotwire, ramp your brakes to 100% and reduce on the transmitter, dial in about 5-10 of drag brake, this helps the ESC know where the rotor is at all times.

Have you also checked to see if there is a newer firmware with your hotwire?
Got 180 installed.
HW says no new updates.

I'll try the above
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Old 10-01-2009
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have you tried downloading the software off the website, let me just check what mine shows.
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  #27  
Old 10-01-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCM View Post
have you tried downloading the software off the website, let me just check what mine shows.
uninstalled and reinstalled using website zip file
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  #28  
Old 10-01-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caneye View Post
yup .. a real benefit of the Hotwire (currently unrivalled by any other competitor) ...

erm ... and what about CastleCreations Castle Link?
AFAIK, this does exactly the same:
setting up the ESC through pc or laptop, uploading new functions when available.

anyway, back on Tekin-topic
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  #29  
Old 10-01-2009
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RS Pro

got this in 4wd with 5.5bl on 17/87 and NiMH

what settings would you suggest for indoors?
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  #30  
Old 10-01-2009
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Sensored only
max 30' timing, that includes any advance on the motor and hotwire, 15' is optimal
Limiter 90
TP3
Neatral width, 16
Brake full
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  #31  
Old 10-01-2009
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OK, the "soft start" you're reffering to is related to the 180 software. 183 has a much harder launch. The site doesn't have it so shoot me an email and I'll hook you up with it.

For the 5.5 I'd start out something like this:

NW 10
BS 85
TP 3
Timing at 80
Dual Mode
Motor timing around 20(even though it's only there for the start)

The other settings are personal pref.
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  #32  
Old 10-01-2009
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've been doing some homework : reading on the Tekin-site.

Quote:
...Because of the differences in magnets a 3 turn sensorless motor will not compare closely with a 3.5 turn sensored. For example, the Tekin Redline 362 sensorless is a 3 turn that rates at 6200 kV, while the Tekin Redline 3.5 sensored is a 3.5 turn that rates at 8000kV...
a higher kV means more rpms, so a Tekin sensored 3.5 is much more powerfull then the sensorless 3?
Do I understand this correctly?
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  #33  
Old 10-01-2009
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also another question:
On this info-page (http://www.teamtekin.com/blmotors.html#redlines) I could see data about the kV-performance of the Sensorless motors ... but not these same kV-data about the sensored motors.
Why is that?
Shouldn't it be much easier to compare the perfomance when these data from all motors are available?
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  #34  
Old 10-01-2009
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it isn't as simple as what turn it is, there is the material of the magnets, the diamter of the rotor and the airgap, these all go along at define the RPM of the motor, but might not actualy show the 'power' of the motor, it is never as simple as that.

The sensorless motors can be geared pretty high, whereas the sensored motors need a much smaller pinion to achieve the same 'performance'. If that makes sense.
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  #35  
Old 10-01-2009
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ok, but then, if a sensored BL motor can be run sensored AND sensorless, when driving with the RS Pro-ESC, having the advantages of both in the Dual mode ... why should one choose a sensorless motor where you can not have these advantages?

Last edited by Lowie; 10-01-2009 at 10:04 PM. Reason: typos
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  #36  
Old 10-01-2009
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the sensored and sensorless motors from Tekin are, two different motors, and have totally different characteristics, so that makes them uncomparable, if that makes sense.

On the RS, if you are running a sensored motor, with the harness plugged in, you can run in dual mode, senored and sensorless. If you are running a sensorless motor, you can only run in sensorless mode.
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  #37  
Old 10-01-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCM View Post
it isn't as simple as what turn it is, there is the material of the magnets, the diamter of the rotor and the airgap, these all go along at define the RPM of the motor, but might not actualy show the 'power' of the motor, it is never as simple as that.

The sensorless motors can be geared pretty high, whereas the sensored motors need a much smaller pinion to achieve the same 'performance'. If that makes sense.
Wow a sensible post about practical application of brushless motors. Nicely written response

As for sensorless off-road I agree with what's said above. The 448 is perfect for indoors.
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  #38  
Old 10-01-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCM View Post
the sensored and sensorless motors from Tekin are, two different motors, and have totally different characteristics, so that makes them uncomparable, if that makes sense.
... ok then but you are not making it any easier for me if I want to choose between a sensored and a sensorless combo

Quote:
On the RS, if you are running a sensored motor, with the harness plugged in, you can run in dual mode, senored and sensorless. If you are running a sensorless motor, you can only run in sensorless mode.
must be me, but this seems to have a very high DUH-factor to it


Maybe it must be my lack of english-understanding but I still haven't understood when I should choose a sensored and when a sensorless solution.
I'll study some more on the net tomorrow.
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  #39  
Old 10-01-2009
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it really isn't a simple answer, as what you need is down to how you like your power.

If you like it soft at the bottom end, senorless, if you like it full of punch, get sensored.

As for ESC, if you are not sure, get the RS Pro, as then you can use ALL the motors.
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  #40  
Old 11-01-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowie View Post
erm ... and what about CastleCreations Castle Link?
AFAIK, this does exactly the same:
setting up the ESC through pc or laptop, uploading new functions when available.

anyway, back on Tekin-topic
i stand corrected
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