Setups

[restimax]

very nice track!!!

[Lowie]

(pushord-mod & hub-mod: I thought so too)

I phoned him and told him he 'd better post his tried setup here, just as you said/asked.
We'll see from there.

[feniks]

so what I have tryed.
on the rear oils from 25 to 35 singel and dubble drild pistons.
low and high roll center.
every position on the rear rocker arms.
the front the same more and less caster .
puchrods on top off yoke or on the bottem.
and this is how I ended.
front caster 3 shims on the rear off the upper arm.
puchrods on top of yoke .
shocks oil 40 new piston.
yellow springs
0 degree camber .
the rear bottem hole off hub ( low rollcenter to give more drive)
shocks in the middle position on rocker.
oil 35 new piston
red springs
0 degree camber
I think thats about it.
the car feld good at several moments but wasent fast at all.
whith the last setup the car was lose at the rear too lose but its averidge whas axepteble.
any help would be great

[blitzboy]

what is the car doing on the track buddy ,anything wierd , is it sliding alot and losing grip on the corners too

[feniks]

getting in tho a corner is perfect even in the mid corner but than comming
out her ass is evry ware .
even onn the bumpy places(everyware) the car handels great .
but when exiting a corner I need too wait too long befor tuching the gas

[KevLee]

Try the rear like this..

Soft pistons
30wt
lower hole on hub (think you are there already
Lower hole on rear tower
Red spring.

Make sure you don't have more droop on the front than the rear. Also make sure your rear diff isn't slipping or tight... I had a similar issue recently and it turned out to be the rear diff.

Are you running anything under the balljoint on the front hub?

[feniks]

djest putted in new diffs tho richt of the diff problem.
I whas driving in the upper hole on the hub but than tryid the bottem one
and that whas far better.
there is a cone wacher under the front balcup.
have 43 mm off droop raer and 35 front .
will change oil on the rear too 30 .
and try on saterday
it is possible that it was the diff so we chal see iff it works now(had thot abaut it so daerfor it is a new one now)

[feniks]

forgat tho mention whas driving standard puchrods in the front .
talkt tho lewis and he sugjested tho put also the puchrod mod on .
so alraedy prepeard that aswel

[Lowie]

glad to hear you (at last) try the pushrod-mod as well

[Lowie]

had a phone-call with Bart (Phoenix of Feniks).

Seems his problems came from a bad batch of Losi-tyres.
He was not the only one having troubles ... and when they mounted some older, worn tyres, they were significant faster then with the "new" ones.

Unfortunatly, Bart did not have any rims left ... so couldn't mount some new tires with some GOOD losi-tires ...
and he drove with his older Yokomo 4WD B-Max. He managed a podium-place nevertheless.

Well done, Bart.

[Lowie]

does anyone of the team-drivers have any information to share about the setup(s) that was (were) used at the Euro's?

Any new tricks, testresults, things we could learn from?

[spenner]

Euro's Setup:

Rear
Red spring with compensator spring
middle hole on tower
New hole in shock mount (more droop)
17mm of shock shaft showing
Old piston's drilled to 57 hole
32.5wt oil
Hubs high
Roll bar in short link (rear hole in wishbone)
wing forward no gurney
toe-in 3 degs
1 deg camber
Wishbone level
Antisquat - Standard brace

Front
Spring - Blue
Old piston drilled to 57 hole
Oil 32.5wt
New position on wishbone using blue servo mounts and hole drilled at edge of webbing
push rod turnbuckle - mounted on top of yoke with cone spacer also
top wishbone fully back (max caster)
ride height - wishbones slightly sagged
camber 2 deg
No toe in/out
Front hubs modded and mounted low

Extras
20g under front shocks
5g to space speedo from shaft
6 x 5g to along spine to space lipo fromt shaft
Trakpower 4900 - approx 280g
Motor Tekin Redline 5.5 geared on 21/72
Tekin RS Pro mounted up front to get weight forward
Diff front and rear, locked prop.
Bumper cut down
Front hinge pin holder filed down and rounded in the middle.
Team xtreme 'Hot weather' wheels
Schumacher Yellow mini spikes
Trishbits foam inserts

[nikos2002]

Thank you very much for the set up information!! Any chance we can get a picture of the car to see how the electronics are laid out???

[niggs98]

Originally Posted by nikos2002

Thank you very much for the set up information!! Any chance we can get a picture of the car to see how the electronics are laid out???

have a look at jimmys car, post 75 on this thread http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...t=11302&page=4. seems to be the norm now. if you have a tekin then you can lay the servo down (for less flex) and still have the space to fit it all in

[Bungleaio]

Originally Posted by spenner

Front hinge pin holder filed down and rounded in the middle.
Team xtreme 'Hot weather' wheels

Any chance of some more info on these?

[nikos2002]

Thanks for the link Nathan. Do you have your servo laid down or straight up?

[niggs98]

layed down. i copied kev and made a carbon mount for my servo then bolted that into the car otherwise one of the servo mounts is either in or very close to a batteryslot so is a very weak mount unless you do this. as a rough guide i leave a 4mm gap between the servo and motor for the sensor wire. for motor removal i then remove the 2 motor mount screws and the "jesus screw" and take the complete assembly out. this gives more room for the speedo

[Lowie]

at Spenner, about your setup:

front push-rods: do you know how long the turn-buckles were (measurement between the two ball-heads)?

Pistons: front and rear: old ones ... but are those the ones with 1 or with two holes? (.. and then drilled to 57-hole)?

Rear locked shaft (in stead of diff): how do you get a locked shaft (and diff with glue instead of diff-balls and grease??) and why did you use it? What are the advantages of a locked shaft?

and ... thanks for sharing!

[spenner]

front push-rods: do you know how long the turn-buckles were (measurement between the two ball-heads)?

The measurement is different for each car, basically equal droop on the front. The wishbones will be at max droop. When the car is compressed at the front it should bottom out and you will just be able to raise each wheel.
I will get the measurements but i can tell you it is different for each car as mine is different to Kev's.


Pistons: front and rear: old ones ... but are those the ones with 1 or with two holes? (.. and then drilled to 57-hole)?

Pistons are 1 hole with extra 57 hole drilled, and run 57 drill through current hole.

Rear locked shaft (in stead of diff): how do you get a locked shaft (and diff with glue instead of diff-balls and grease??) and why did you use it? What are the advantages of a locked shaft?

Not sure what i put down!!!! But i am running the diff in front and rear with the locked prop shaft. So permanent 4wd.

Hope this helps....

Spenner

[Bungleaio]

Originally Posted by Bungleaio

Any chance of some more info on these?Any chance of some more info on these?

I'm doing a full rebuild this weekend, I'd be interested in knowing what you've done to the front hinge pin holder. Cheers mate