Kyosho RB6 thread - Page 35

RogerM · #**681** 04-11-2014

I'm with Tony on this, it is a VERY useful tuning aid that once you have your head around can make a significant difference to the overall "feel" of the car.

RudeTony · #**682** 04-11-2014

So long as everyone knows who is who then its OK - LOL

slow coach · #**683** 06-11-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by RogerM

A fair few people have been asking for my latest RB6 setup recently. Sorry it has taken a while to post it up but I wanted to be 100% sure it was both faster and easier to drive than the previous one people liked.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...minster201408/

Hope that helps

Whats the advantage with the 2 hole drilled pistons ??

RogerM · #**684** 07-11-2014

For me the rear end was packing up a little to much on rough tracks with the 2x1.6 pistons and 300cst oil that my previous starting setup used. Also in some situations the car benefits from squatting a little more under acceleration when looking for greater traction.

Going to the 2x1.7 pistons with 350cst oil improves the car in both aspects, tried larger flow area in the pistons (both bigger holes and different number of holes) however I've found 2x1.7 to be a great all round piston.

As an aside I've found the car more sensitive to antisquat adjustments since going to the 2x1.7 pistons than either 2x1.6 or 4x1.35 that I've previously run.

Hope that helps

slow coach · #**685** 08-11-2014

Thanks Roger for the input what was the difference compared to the kit psitons

RogerM · #**686** 11-11-2014

I find that the 2 hole pistons allow you to run the car a little softer on static damping so that he weight can transfer around the car a bit more freely. The 2 hole pistons pack up earlier so still control the big hits and landings well with a softer overall feel on the bench and low load situations.

I used to swear by 4 hole pistons in the RB5 & RB6 cars but seems I missed a trick, probably by virtue of doing the majority of my piston trials using tapered pistons.

noreturn · #**687** 24-11-2014

Couple of questions:

What associated springs do most people run?
White/white?

Also what does reversing the ackerman link do?

RogerM · #**688** 24-11-2014

If I run AE springs it is usually red or yellow fronts with grey rears in the 3rd (drilled) inner hole on the rear wishbones.

Reversing the ackerman link makes the car slightly less aggressive, good for calming the car when the grip levels make her a little twitchy.
TBH I run it reversed all the time but generally have ~1.25mm of spacing behind the ball stud so it's actually in the stock position (the difference between the two is 1.25mm)

leeboy44 · #**689** 08-12-2014

sorry if this question has ben asked before but i cant seem to find it

do any of you guys run gear diff on carpet? what oil do you use?

many thanks

MHeadling · #**690** 08-12-2014

Yes seems a popular option but depends on driving style/track, if it's all carpet/astro then go for the gear diff, if it's a mix of wood/carpet I would go for the ball diff

3k is a good starting point, to stop my one leaking I put some hermatite sealant on each side of the gasket (degrease all parts first before adding the sealant) and this seemed to do the trick

Fozzy1989 · #**691** 13-12-2014

Hi guys hoping someone can help me out with a set up for carpet and gym floor tinkered and tried quite a few different things but can't seem to get it right.

Cheers
Chris

Strykerca · #**692** 14-12-2014

Hello fellow RC'ers. This is my first kit after playing around with a Traxxas 4x4.

My question is regarding the mounting of the shocks (upper fr and rear) I do not like the fact that they provide plastic 3 mm nuts and a plastic shock ball.It feels too loose and sloppy. Can you get replacement nuts and balls that are better.

I enjoyed building the kit, however the directions and parts bags were a mess. Some parts were in multiple bags for the same step. Kinda confusing. I ended up putting all the screws in a pile and measuring them as I went.

Still need to purchase electronics, motor, ESC, servo Etc. Hopefully I can get some advice as I move along

Thanks Guys (and Gals)

InsideLineModels · #**693** 14-12-2014

You can use any M3 lock nut on the shock mount locations.

We do a range of alloy and stainless nuts if it helps. Take a look here

http://insidelineracing.co.uk/inside...acers-etc/nuts

Kev

Strykerca · #**694** 15-12-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by InsideLineRacing

You can use any M3 lock nut on the shock mount locations.

We do a range of alloy and stainless nuts if it helps. Take a look here

http://insidelineracing.co.uk/inside...acers-etc/nuts

Kev

Thanks for the link. Can you get specific aluminum shock ball and nut in kit, maybe anodized?

InsideLineModels · #**695** 15-12-2014

yep, Exotec do these:
http://insidelineracing.co.uk/inside...&view=category

RogerM · #**696** 15-12-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fozzy1989

Hi guys hoping someone can help me out with a set up for carpet and gym floor tinkered and tried quite a few different things but can't seem to get it right.

Cheers
Chris

I run the latest setup I've got on Petit RC for astro indoors and the car is really nice.

Only modification I would do if the grip was really low on the gym floor was to drop the inside rear ball studs to 0mm spacing.

Hope that helps.

Fozzy1989 · #**697** 15-12-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by RogerM

I run the latest setup I've got on Petit RC for astro indoors and the car is really nice.

Only modification I would do if the grip was really low on the gym floor was to drop the inside rear ball studs to 0mm spacing.

Hope that helps.

Is this your latest one Roger? http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...minster201408/

Cheers
Chris

RogerM · #**698** 15-12-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fozzy1989

Is this your latest one Roger? http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...minster201408/

Cheers
Chris

Yes mate, that is the one.

One thing I forgot to mention was that increasing the front shock length by 1.5mm really helps transfer weight front to rear in lower grip conditions too.

Fozzy1989 · #**699** 16-12-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by RogerM

Yes mate, that is the one.

One thing I forgot to mention was that increasing the front shock length by 1.5mm really helps transfer weight front to rear in lower grip conditions too.

Cheers mate, just a couple of questions on the set up if you don't mind?

I've noticed that you are using the RB5 rear arms what difference/advantage have you seen to using the kit ones?

I've seen that you are also using the shortest ball stud link on the front of the buggy. One of the things I've noticed when running the car is how much steering it creates so have found I've tried to dial it out. Is this cancelled out by reversing the steering rack because this is one thing I haven't tried yet?

Cheers
Chris

RogerM · #**700** 18-12-2014

The RB5 (flat) arms keep the car flatter through corners and help reduce the mid corner pivot / tucking in of the nose that the RB6 has naturally. As a rule of thumb I run the flat arms everywhere but if I've got enough mid corner rear end but am struggling a little to keep it's nose in then will go back to the stock RB6 rear arms.

As with everything like this it is personal preference / driving style. I know plenty of people who prefer the stock RB6 arms.

My advice is to try them both back-back and see which works best for you.

Reversing the steering rack makes the car feel a little smoother on initial turn in through to about 50% lock.

I often run with the rack reversed but 1.25mm or so of spacing behind the ball stud on the rack to put it back to the stock setting, doing this means it's only seconds work to calm the car down by removing the spacers or equally to put a little more in if I want the car to be more reactive to initial steering inputs.

HTH